I Know it has been done without it, but just mypersonal preference to upgrade the engine and get everything new unless you really know who you are buying from ~ reliability

 

guys if i take off my emblem on my trunk will i have to repaint the whole trunk?

 

Do what you can for now, save up money for FI. I started modding the G at age 16, Im now 20 and plan to supercharge this winter.

By the way, the fact that you have an X will make modding a lot of things harder. Talk to MPG35FIEND (Most heavily modded AWD that I can think of) and make sure that you want to start putting money into that platform before you do.

Yes you will have to weld the holes and repaint.

 

I'm in need of rear brake pads and was looking around at aftermarket options when I came across a table from EBC's site. It basically noted that unless my front pads were of similar performance quality or better, then I shouldn't use a higher quality one for the rear. Since my fronts still have plenty of life in them, I dont see a need to change them out just yet, but I also dont want that reason alone to force me to stick with OEM or basic pads in the rear if eventually the fronts would get an upgrade in quality (unless i really dont need aftermarket rears).

This would be on a DD '06X with city/highway/spirited driving only. If its similar priced or sometimes even cheaper to go with aftermarket options especially when they are an upgrade over OEM I prefer to do that which is why I was doing the research on my pad options.
For the time being the Redstuff pads have caught my interest so please chime in if they seem like a good fit for me, or if there are other options you personally think would work better for my style.

Also:
-Are the rear pads much less important than the fronts and I should just stick with basic or OEM pads and then only upgrade the fronts when the time comes?
-Have people just upgraded the rears first anyway and it really didn't make much of a difference or mess with anything by having the rear pads of better quality?
-Or is it best to upgrade all 4 at the same time if the budget allows and will also promote the most longevity? (At this time I didn't plan to upgrade my front rotors at all if that factors into the thinking)

 

I've treated this car nothing but the best. i got the car with 75k on it, previous and only owner was really nice with the car, but even thou i had a lot of things done after i bought it. Valve covers, all bushings, coilovers, camber kit, plenum....anyways.. taking really good care...well i already put a few thousand miles on it,...changing the oil and feedin 93 gas all the way! ive recently started to notice this noise and i think its getting worst and worst .. the noise gets louder as i accelerate more. I've had this buddy of mine who took a look at it.. hes a mechanic for years. He told me it might be coming from the "timing chain" common with these engines after it reach a certain amount of miles. There should be a plastic piece that holds the chain. "guides" or "tensioner" once that wears out its metal with metal rubbing. noise is like annoying when im on low rotation as i accelerate noise builds up from the engine bay but exhaust will always cover the sound. Car has a lot of mods, full suspension, full exhaust, and lots of other goodies! Can someone please help me figure it out what am i looking at? Does engine has to come out in order to replace those plastic pieces? sorry for the spelling...is it worth it to just swap for a newer motor ? im lost here... Thanks a lot guys.

 

anyone know were i can buy a tanabe muffler or sebring

 

Almost one year ago last August I faced a similar decision. My 06 G35 had 171500 miles and needed brakes (original ones replaced at 85k), had a leaking differential seal and and intermittent drivers side ballast.
Rather than spend the money on repairs I said goodby 06 G35 with 171796 miles and hello 2012 G37S

I have no regrets.

Telcoman

 

IMHO, change it all out. It should mix just fine, but you won't be fully utilizing that money you just spend on that brake fluid unless factory puts in dot 5.1 as well.

 

If you want to make your car get up and go quicker, the must have parts are intake filter, plenum spacer, maybe MREV, high flow cats or test pipes, tune, and a new final drive gear. If you have an auto, get the tranny mods to get your car into gear quicker. Depending on the motor, cams might be your best option before the tune. If you have a manual, get a clutch that catches quicker and keep practicing your driving. The rest help add to the gains but provide smaller gains per dollar. Which intake is best is arguable, but I do agree that a true CAI is usually the better option. An exhaust should be a must have as well but unless you buy used or find a cheap alternative, your money would be better invested in a good suspension and tires to give you more traction to put what power your already have onto the road.

BTW, unless you have a lot of resources and connections that will help you every single step of the way, Blue Dream's list of mods should cost about $3k when all is said and done.

 

guys can i use this muffler instead of getting the magnaflow 14815?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Dual-Round...a59e82&vxp=mtr


it has almost the same specs as the magnaflow , im i expecting the same sound as magnaflow ?

 

Alright, I'm looking at getting a set of wheels for my sedan if i keep it (which its almost certain that i will be). The wheels I'm looking at most are the Enkei NT03 in a square set up. Now my car has the Akebono BBK on it as well so the wheels will need to clear this, I've done some research and it appears as though a wheel in an 18x9.5 with a +27 offset will work to clear the BBK. My front and rear fenders are already rolled/pulled front the previous set up of a 19x8.5 and 19x10.

The big question is will those offsets be ok on a sedan i a square set up running a 255/45/18 tire?

 

i have ebc red stuff with 3gd dimpled rotors in the front. for the rear, i just thought it wasnt worth that kind of money. Don't get me wrong i was impressed with the pads and rotors, but for the price i'm paying i don't need extra "performance" in the back. I gladly looked into reputable brands selling blanks. stoptechs, powerstop, centrics. and found they are relatively the same company making these. I ended up buying a set of pads and rotors of raybestos, the advance technology ones. and my god, quality on these things are amazing. so far i have very good brake wear on the back. get the rotors with a coating on it so it doesnt rust, or when it does you can just wipe it off. i think raybestos offer a brake pad spreader clip thing so your pads don't drag on the rotors when you're not depressing the pedal. AMAZING stuff imo. you can try buying from amazon if you have prime for free and quick shipping. or you can buy from rockautoparts. and i still might have a discount code for it if you'd like.

with the ebc pads, they're good stuff, but my fronts seem to be wearing down pretty fast with the rotor combo. and since its slotted there is some noise when you depress the pedal like the pads scraping across the slot. so i didn't want to opt for the slotted dimpled in the rear to double the amount of noise .

a lot of people are okay with buying cheap ebay crap like the rotors and pads. i'm not saying its bad, i'm just saying i won't put that cheap **** on my car esp when it comes to braking and safety.

oh and um, i came across this amazing water repellent for windshield called aquapel =], if you live in an area with rain and snow and stuff. give it a try. google and youtube it. GOOD STUFF

just my 2 cents. hope it helps

 

WELL SAID SIR! i mean i got my g35 wayyy back when so g37 wasnt even out yet. but rather than buying one with over 150xxx miles on the clock, spend a bit more money (if possible) and just buy a newer one. you'd hope they revised a bunch of **** so faulty stuff wouldn't repeat itself.

 

oh yea, as for your other questions, upgrading the rears before fronts shouldn't make TOO big of a difference honestly. i'm not sure how the g35x is brake biased. and upgrading all 4 at a time technically doesn't promote longevity. unless the brakes on the front axle absolutely isnt doing much, therefore putting more braking load on the rear. but you probably would have noticed it by now as you wouldn't be able to stop for ****. no one really changes brakes for both axles at once because the fronts almost always wear faster than the rear.

 

Hey guys,
Just found out today that the noise i was hearing its coming from the drive belt tensioner pulley, i have to replace that... the bearing might be rusted... as i have a aftermarket hood with vents on it..and i live in FLorida, imagine how much water is getting in there. will be going to OEM stock hood again..more clean look. its such a relief to know that i am facing a really cheap repair. Thank you again. and by the way sir...i would NEVER sell this to buy de 2012 g37...theres no way buddy! if you put my car next to a g37...g37 will literally disapear!!! breakin necks in south florida...