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I'm having an issue with my 2005 G35 sedan 6MT.
In the mornings when its cold before the car has come up to temp, driving to work. The car will go into limp mode sometimes 2 or 3 times while driving.
slip, vdc, and mil lights up and the pedal becomes unresponsive.
I can restart the car and the pedal will be just fine.
when I check the code it is P2135.
I repleaced the throttle body on sunday and the car was fine on monday morning.
but then went into limp mode twice this morning.
it's only done this in the mornings when it's cooler and has never done it in the afternoon.
I checked all of the lines from the TB to the ECU according to the service manual and verified the voltages the ECU is seeing. although i did that in the afternoon when it was warmer.
I pulled the old TB out of the car on saturday night and compared the old and new when they were both cold the next morning. I found a spot on the old one where one of the tps sensors was open so I was pretty sure that was the problem.
any thoughts on what this issue could be?
accelerator pedal? It has a similar 2 resistor setup as the TB that could get confused.
well i got fed up with this after it happened 3 times while driving the other day.
I took off the connectors from the ECU, the gas pedal and the throttle body.
I cleaned the contacts, applied dielectric grease to the connectors and tweaked the pins so they would have a little more resistance into the sockets.
so far it's been almost a week and I haven't had a single limp mode incident. (knock on wood)
so before you spend hundreds of dollars on a new throttle body, double check the connections first.
glad to see you've fixed the problem. i know cold weather and electricity don't mix well with cars. sometimes it's the other way around too tho. i've had cars that would run great when first started them spitted and sputtered once they reached full operating temperature.
you did the right thing by checking all the connections and following all the wiring and checking for the correct voltages. glad to hear you didn't take it up to the dealership and have them rape you for a simple fix.
Any time you see a p2135 code, no need in checking the wiring because the throttle chamber is your main problem. I'm doing one at work right now as we speak for the same exact code. This is a common problem with the VQ35DE from the G's to the I35. Hope this tidbit of info helps you guys out in the future to help you not have to trace wiring which is never fun...
I put in a new Throttle body and it didn't help the issue.
I think it's a loose connection and the ECU throws the code if the signal varies just a bit.
I seemed to have fixed my own TPS p2135 issue so I thought I should share, as this is where I went looking for clues. Solution: Wiring issue - I soldered up someone else's past ECU mods mess.
The problems:
I would be driving and the car would randomly kick into a limp mode, with just enough power to keep moving but not go uphill etc. turning the ignition off and on usually fixed the issue, some days were worse than others and some had me stuck on the side of the road for a while until it eventually worked again. It tended to happen more in the mornings and if it had been sitting in the sun all day, but there was no pattern to it.
p2135 was the main error code I was receiving but sometimes I would get a few extras. The ecu reset code cleared these ok.
There were no real visible clues on the live diagnostics app i was using.
I don't know the full history of my infiniti / skyline V35 350GT but did know that the previous owners have messed with a lot of stuff, including the ECU.
I have skills in electronics and was considering installing a new head unit and decided to see how complex it would be, in doing this I pulled off a few panels, including the glovebox compartment (left side of the car in Australia) I discovered this was where the ECU lived, so I thought I would check to see that the terminals were all clean.
It turned out that someone had done some ECU work here.. the wires had been cut and rejoined with a simple twist and electrical tape. Yes, twist and tape will pass a current, but I am assuming that that is not good enough for sensor data.
I cut, re-stripped, and soldered the wires back together properly and used heat shrink to isolate the joints (as it should have been done in the 1st place).
My car went from a daily limp mode to perfect. It has been 1 1/2 months now with no issues.
This leads me to believe that as others are saying check the terminals, it seems that just a little bit of interference can cause the issue. And if anyone has worked on your car, ensure the wiring is soldered and isolated properly, solder is cheap, do it right.
steps I recommend from my experience:
Ensure your battery is 100%
Check all of the terminals you can access (throttle pedal is easy to access and my ECU was above the passenger's feet on a right-hand drive car)
Check to see if the wiring has been altered by anyone in the past and if so lean to solder / find someone who can (its easy).
This could have saved me 2K in mechanic diagnostics which didn't solve the issue.
(They changed the throttle body(2nd hand), MAF sensor, a few other things I'm not sure about, they wanted to change all O2 sensors, none of which fixed the issue)
Good luck
Screenshots from HSK OB-LINK - links to my android phone via the app, easy way to get real-time error codes.