High idle after new throttle body and relearn
High idle after new throttle body and relearn
So I had my throttle body go bad after cleaning it (would not relearn) so I replaced it with an OEM reman unit. Once replaced I was able to go through the relearn process, pedal relearn throttle plate position and air idle relearn but the RPM’s are still a bit high. After the relearn it dropped from about 1100 RPM’s down to between 870-910 RPM’s. Any ideas what else I should be looking at. I also have a failing cylinder 5 coil with a replacement on the way, could that be it? Any help would be great!
What relearn process did you use, there are multiple resets for different systems.
http://nicoclub.com/archives/g35-350...procedure.html
http://nicoclub.com/archives/g35-350...procedure.html
What relearn process did you use, there are multiple resets for different systems.
http://nicoclub.com/archives/g35-350...procedure.html
http://nicoclub.com/archives/g35-350...procedure.html
Update,
so after the relearn it was about 200 RPM’s over, today it’s back up to 1200 at idle. Starting to think somethings up with the ECU, I have a spare but just wondering if anyone else has any other ideas before I change it out.
so after the relearn it was about 200 RPM’s over, today it’s back up to 1200 at idle. Starting to think somethings up with the ECU, I have a spare but just wondering if anyone else has any other ideas before I change it out.
Does it still have strong revs like when you punch it completely WOT does it just FLY up to redline or does it feel like it sort of bogs down for a second and THEN the rpm's skyrocket?
I mean it sounds exactly like it needs the idle air calibration done, one of the final steps of performing the idle recalibration is the idle returns to the PROPER place, if it didn't do that during the recalibration then it wasn't performed correctly.
The engine MUST be up to operating temperature when you do that recalibration, you also must have the heated seats, climate control, defogger, etc TURNED OFF. The entire climate control panel needs to be OFF.
However if it has a delay when you stomp the throttle pedal to the floor then you probably just have a big vacuum leak that's skewing the calibration.
The engine MUST be up to operating temperature when you do that recalibration, you also must have the heated seats, climate control, defogger, etc TURNED OFF. The entire climate control panel needs to be OFF.
However if it has a delay when you stomp the throttle pedal to the floor then you probably just have a big vacuum leak that's skewing the calibration.
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Well here is how it started, cleaned old throttle body and it got knocked off the bench, also cleaned the MAF sensor at the same time. Reinstalled everything and the old throttle body would not enter relearn. Installed a OEM reman throttle body and can go through the relearn, stop watch is used for timing. After I run the relearn the RPM’s drop down to about 800 RPM from about 1200, once I turn the car off and start it up again it goes back to 1200 at idle. I would imagine if the relearn wasn’t done the Idle rpm wouldn’t drop after the process. One other thing I noticed, if I lightly blip the throttle so it doesn’t go over 1500 rpm it holds there for about 1.5 sec after the throttle is released, maybe throttle pedal switch??? Could that be causing the issue???
You can test the throttle position % with an OBD2 scanner that will read real-time data. I personally like the Android app Torque Pro and a Bluetooth OBD2 scanner for stuff exactly like that.
Put it in graphing mode and select the sensor to graph then run your tests and review the logs when you're done.
Put it in graphing mode and select the sensor to graph then run your tests and review the logs when you're done.
I have heckled it with my scan tool and it’s reading TPS @ .3%. Any idea what it should be at, I couldn’t find it in the service manual, although it was crazy late when I was looking so I may have missed it.
Remove your intake, and reach down and slide off the PVC hose that goes to the back of the head. Inspect that hose for cracks, also inspect the couplers on your intake for cracks. When you reinstall, make sure the coupler doesn't fold on itself at the bottom of the throttle body.
Take car for a 10-15 minute drive. You want all the fluids nice and warmed up. Park the car, wheels straight, and turn everything off: radio, A/C, lights, even the dome light, all off.
Now do the idle relearn procedure. Your life will be a lot easier if you use an OBD2 dongle and the NDSII app on your phone. Or try that pedal dance like it's 2012.
Take car for a 10-15 minute drive. You want all the fluids nice and warmed up. Park the car, wheels straight, and turn everything off: radio, A/C, lights, even the dome light, all off.
Now do the idle relearn procedure. Your life will be a lot easier if you use an OBD2 dongle and the NDSII app on your phone. Or try that pedal dance like it's 2012.
LOL “heckled” not sure what my fat fingers pushed to go from checked to heckled. Got to love autocorrect
Remove your intake, and reach down and slide off the PVC hose that goes to the back of the head. Inspect that hose for cracks, also inspect the couplers on your intake for cracks. When you reinstall, make sure the coupler doesn't fold on itself at the bottom of the throttle body.
Take car for a 10-15 minute drive. You want all the fluids nice and warmed up. Park the car, wheels straight, and turn everything off: radio, A/C, lights, even the dome light, all off.
Now do the idle relearn procedure. Your life will be a lot easier if you use an OBD2 dongle and the NDSII app on your phone. Or try that pedal dance like it's 2012.
Take car for a 10-15 minute drive. You want all the fluids nice and warmed up. Park the car, wheels straight, and turn everything off: radio, A/C, lights, even the dome light, all off.
Now do the idle relearn procedure. Your life will be a lot easier if you use an OBD2 dongle and the NDSII app on your phone. Or try that pedal dance like it's 2012.
I appreciate the help but I have done these as well with the exception of the NDSII. After replacing the failing coil pack it reset back to spec 650 RPM at 0-0.3% TPS, shut the car off and start it again and it forgets the new settings and goes back to 850 RPM at 0.7% TPS. O2 Sensors are ok, car has always been at operating temp during resets. ECU?
I'd just drive it for a while and see if the ecu learns around it. I had a Maxima once not want to idle below 1k, then a few weeks later it just fixed itself.
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