[QUOTE=khsonic03]There is no such thing as a D35R, it is a D35. And yes, all of the pictures of a D35 that you will see show the positive terminal on the left. That is why I was so skeptical of getting it. I had the guy from DBC pull one out and look at it while I was on the phone. For some reason the pictures are incorrect. I suppose I will take a picture of mine when I get a chance, so people can see for themselves. The 1st-optima batteries site shows all of the post configurations and battery sizes, and the information is correct.


First off the "D" stands for deep cycle, The "R" stands for reverse.
This is a direct bolt in with no B,S, spacing. This battery has great voltage and is one great upgrade from the factory one.

 

damn pasta bro close ur quote =}

 

OK, guess I'm gonna have to take a picture of mine then. Optima no longer makes a D35R. It is a D35, and it is a reverse post configuration with no "R" in the title. Maybe when you purchased yours they used the "R" to signify the reverse post on the D35, but they no longer do so.

 

Well, with the amount of current the Bass amp pulls, I could see your lights dimming. Do you have a grounding kit? If not, I would recommend getting one or building your own. I am currently constructing my own with additional grounding points and also one key wire I feel makes a big difference, and is a bottle-neck in the charging system. That is the alternator to positive post wire. Personally I would give this a shot in your car first. Make sure you upgrade negative post to chasis, and engine to chasis as well. With the amount of current you are pulling, you need every amp you can get. If this doesn't work. Then consider a cap. The wires will make sure that your engine/electrical components are getting all the current they can, as well as your system.

 

notcie his says d35r on some extraneous sticker, that may have been put there by the reseller so their idiot sales people knew the post configuration was reversed.

 

True. I'm gonna try to take a picture tonight.

 

OK, here we go. To take the doubt out of everyone's mind:

 

So is the Yellow top is a good weight reducing mod?

 

you already quoted all the information you should need to answer your own question.

 

its weight is less, and that helps. My thinking is that the alternater charges at 14.1 volts and the stock batt will not hold that voltage. my yellow top will hold a charge of over 14 volts. running the alternator 100% of the time is a waist of power plus the heat it puts in the wires cause less voltage flow.
my factory batt voltage would drop to 12.2 volts after 2 hours of sitting.
the yellow tops hold voltage for weeks.

 

I only asked because of what you said. It would seem like the the yellow would serve for the purpose of best while driving and red would be better if you plan on using it while the engine is off. Isn't the heavier battery going to have more energy for a longer time than the lighter one?

 

red top is not a deep cycle battery... therefor it is the lightest. the yellow is heavier but it is a deep cycle battery... i believe he stated that properly.

my yellow top was ~10 lbs lighter than stock. is you're going for all of the weight saving mods, then this could help you out. if not, there is no difference.

 

Where are you guys getting your D51rs? They are "out of stock" everywhere I look or on backorder.

 

If you look at my post above this, it says that the red one is the heaviest and you are saying its the lightest.

 

Red = great replacement battery. Great CCA power. Not a deep cycle
Yellow = Great battery for repeated deep cycles. Great for big audio applications.

Please instead of arguing, read Optima's website.