Really old thread. But I just had the sane issue with my 2004 G coupe at 81,000 miles.

What was the resolution?

thanks

sam

 

Brake pedal switch mounted at the top of the pedal.

 

Just found it. Thanks

 

Hey all, I know this is an old thread but regarding the resolution... was the switch faulty & needed replaced? Was it stuck? Experiencing relatively the same issues in my 03 coupe 6mt after having to jam on the brakes a few nights ago..

The only difference with mine is that from start up I have no abs/slip lights showing, I drive around the block and soon as I apply mild pressure to the brakes, the abs/slip/vdc off lights come on. Light pressure to slow down will not trigger the abs/slip etc.. BUT, when I do press the brakes hard enough to trigger the abs/slip/vdc off, the tail lights remain lit like when braking, however the spoiler light is off. I don’t hear the abs going crazy, and simply shutting off and restarting seems to reset the problem to square one with no problem lights showing after restart..

Going to proceed with the unplugging of switches, battery disconnect etc to see if that resolves. Haven’t had a chance to hook up code reader either yet it’s been pouring down raining last few days.. although no SES light showing either so idk

Appreciate any suggestions

 

It is just the plastic stopper that triggers the brake lights. If you can see a whole in the arm of the pedal that lines up with the top switch. That is your issue.

 

Issue resolved for me.. Tried working through the common problems and it ended up being something completely simple...

-Checked fuses under hood by battery, pulled off clear plastic cover & used test lite to double check the 30/30/50a triple fuse - all fine
-Tried the brake fluid reservoir drain & refill
-Checked the kick panel fuses that had anything to do with abs - all fine
-Checked both brake pedal switches & both were good

After giving up I decide to check every single under the hood fuse and then every kick panel fuse..

Alas a small little 10amp kick panel fuse labeled "elec parts" or "misc elec parts" was blown..

Replaced it with a spare and boom everything is back to working..

I feel pretty dumb missing this the first time around, but now in the future I will check every single fuse just to be sure when something goes wrong..

I almost took it to the dealer over this so I hope this can help someone else in a similar spot

 

My son was in a minor accident this am. Of course he was driving my G35x. Slammed the brakes around the corner and wacked a pole with the rear quarter. Popped the passenger tail light assembly, but the rear tail lights remained on. Started to drive it home and she was in limp mode. No codes or dash lights. Read this thread and started at the most inexpensive solution. Checked every fuse. After noting they were all in working order, I pulled the brake petal switch. $45 bucks later, she's dented but accelerates. Kudos to the folks that respond to threads with solutions.

 

So I googled this very same issue and I got this thread as one of the results. I have a 2007 Infiniti G35 Sport and yesterday when I got in my car to leave I noticed it wasn't accelerating pass 25 mph in fort gear in the normal automatic position. An hour after I got back home, someone knocked on my door and told me my brake lights was still on. I literally had an anxiety attack after that because I am having so many issues with this car that I can't afford to fix because I live on disability income. I've had the car since 2017 and it's just one problem after another. Can someone please tell me where the fuses are that needs to be tested and what is the size of the fuse? Please guys I really need answers because this is my only transportation and I am a single mom with a teenager. So I can't afford to not fix whatever this issue is.🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽

 

Typically what causes this issue is the brake pedal switch, it's mounted on the top of the brake pedal under the dash and there's a little plastic "plunger" that breaks off. Then it doesn't make contact with the brake pedal anymore.

The car thinks you are using both the brakes and the gas at the same time, so it limp modes the car.

And your brake lights stay on all the time even with the car turned off and it drains your battery...

Fortunately it's also usually a very easy fix.

This is what the brake pedal switch looks like, the little white plunger on the end is what breaks off.







Here is a diagram of the location of the switch, keep in mind there are TWO SWITCHES on the brake pedal, one is for the brake lights, one is for the cruise control.

The "stop lamp switch" is the one you want to replace, the ASCD switch (automatic speed control device) is the one for the cruise control.

The hardest part is getting the harness unplugged from it Use a pair of needle nose pliers to squeeze the release tab.

Also, there is some adjustment on it, normally I have someone else stand at the rear of the car and you screw it in until the brake lights turn off, then screw it in about another 1/4 of a turn. That puts just a little bit of pressure on it to keep the light from accidentally turning on. If you put too much pressure on it then the lights don't turn on until you press on the brakes quite a bit. You want it to turn on with just a tiny bit of pressure on the pedal.

 

Same issue with my 2004 G35 (150,000 miles). As another member stated, check the grommets that the two brake sensors hit - number 46512 on the following diagram. Part number for my car is: 46584-5P010. $8 part and 10 minute fix.

 

Hey Guys!

First I want to say thanks for all the help on this thread.
Second I want to tell you what I found to be the problem for MY "Breaks Lights won't go off after Slamming breaks , Car in Limp Mode" situation.
The top brake peddle sensor has a White Plunger that sits against a rubber grommet to keep the sensor pushed in which keeps the lights off.
In my Case I hit the brakes so hard that it pushed that Black Grommet piece out of the Peddle so the sensor had nothing to rest upon.
I was lucky enough to find it on the floor and be able to push part of it back in so the sensor plunger has something to sit on to get home, I'll purchase the grommet tonight online.
When the brake lights are stuck on the car is in Limp Mode which I'm guessing is a safety feature. Anyway, hope this helps someone, it's probably a $2 piece of rubber to replace. lol

Cheers

 

I fixed this problem on my G35 quickly and easily thanks to this forum! It was a SIMPLE, NO EXPERTISE NEEDED fix! I'm 69 years old and did the repair myself in minutes.
The arm that holds the brake pedal has 2 little rubber bumpers that depresses 2 switches WHEN THE BRAKE PEDAL IS NOT BEING PRESSED. The 2 DEPRESSED brake switches TURN OFF the brake lights! (That's kind of counter intuitive, right?) So, when you press on your brake pedal the brake light switches are no longer getting depressed, thereby TURNING ON your brake lights.
The problem occurs when the little rubber bumpers fall out of their holes (due to age, rot, or whatever). When that happens, those 2 switches are no longer EVER depressed, causing the brake lights to stay on permanently, even when the car isn't running! To fix the issue you could tape or glue pennies over the holes instead of replacing the rubber bumpers. (But I don't recommend that since the proper fix is so easy and cheap!)
Please trust me. If you crawl under the dash to look at your brake pedal arm, both the problem and the fix will be absolutely obvious to you. Just get and pop in new rubber bumpers.
When I went to my nearby auto parts store they didn't happen to have bumpers for my g35 but I was eager to complete the repair NOW! I bought extremely similar ones for a Honda product (and cemented them in place just to be absolutely sure they'd stay put!). I figure I'm good for another 20 years at least!