Anybody had their brake fluid replaced at the dealership? I wonder how much will that cost?

And do they offer high temp brake fluid?

Thanks.

Brake fluid flushes are generally overlooked, but should be done every 2 years. A dealer will charge you quite a bit, while doing it at home will cost you $10....the cost of a bottle of fluid.

"high temp" fluid is a pretty broad statement. Typical OEM brake fluid is perfectly adequate for 99% of passenger car duties. Unless you are road racing, just OEM equivalent quality brake fluid.

I asked my local Infiniti dealer and they are asking $189 for brake fluid change for OEM fluid I think.

I have to research on how to do a DYI on it.

I prefer high temp because The last time I took the car to the track, I experienced a little brake fading and the clutch didn't pop all the way up right after the session. I was told high temp brake fluid can help avoid that.

There might be a brake fluid video in this old DIY compilation
https://g35driver.com/forums/faq-diy...eo-series.html

I would guess that had more to do with it simply being old fluid that had absorbed moisture than just purely temp rating on the fluid itself. It certainly wouldn't hurt to have a high temp rating, but a fresh flush of regular brake fluid would make a significant improvement all by itself.

I'd suggest saving your money and buying a Motive power brake bleeder. Also, look for the DIY on brake flush by soundmike.

EDIT: here you go: https://g35driver.com/forums/v36-diy...r-bleeder.html

I second the cause being old fluid. Any moisture in the system will boil at high temps causing brake fade.

I autoX my Mustang with a BBK using off-the-shelf Valvoline Synthetic Brake fluid. No issues at all.


Do NOT use DOT 5 fluid. It's not compatible with your brake system. Dot 3/4 only!

thanks guys.

do you recommend simply staying with OEM brake fluid?

is the procedures the same for OEM sports brake (non-Akebono) ?

If you are REALLY going to be racing, then it probably wouldn't hurt to go with a higher boiling point DOT4 type fluid from a reputable company such as ATE or MOTUL, but short of that, I think you'd be fine with most any name brand DOT3 brake fluid so long as you keep it an a regular replacement cycle. The procedure is essentially the same for the OEM regular, Sport (non-Akebono) and the later Sport Akebono. Brakes is brakes.

ATE is super popular at the track. It is pretty cheap and had pretty good temp ratings, much better than OEM. Tirerack is pretty convenient.

Also, it is pretty convenient if you flush your own brakes. You just alternate between ATE Super Blue and ATE 200 since they are basically the same, just different colors.

Most people I've talked to have recommended flushing the twice a year, and at least once a year.

I've boiled my brake fluid before, it sucks royally.

^ ATE Super Blue has been known to stain the brake fluid containers, so I just use Type 200. You can easily tell the difference between old the the new fluid. Just flush some out, dump your bottle into another container and then open the bleeder again and see if its clear again in the bottle.

The Fluid in the lines can look much cleaner than in the bottle.

^

Something to consider about the Super Blue, it's illegal in Florida. Possibly other states as well.

I also agree, it does stain the container, i've stopped using it on the G but used it in prior cars. It works, yes, but as tss mentions above you'll typically see the differences in the fluid coming out anyway.

FWIW, when i first started hitting the track, i used Valvoline DOT3/4 fluid, those were great for light track days. It works just as well for daily use.

High temp fluid follows the rule of diminishing returns when it comes to street duty, however. Generally, the higher the temp resistance, the faster is absorbs moisture, thus requiring more frequent changes. So go for the a range that suits your driving needs best.

Personally, i use Typ 200 these days. Yearly full fluid change and a more frequent before/after bleed/refresh during track days.

p.s. OP, a few years back some shops did the bleed/flush for me for about $40, bringing in my own fluid. You can look into that as well.