Dynoing out the myth of Intake mods: The Results
You're an idiot.
Does the VQ benefit from intake mods (without tuning) ??? No. Just like you said and this test confirmed.
Dose an LS1? Yes, absolutely, almost every single time.
You want proof? Go buy this: http://isbnlib.com/isbn/193249488X/H...V-8s-SA-Design
I thumbed through it at a summit store in GA, and it was chock full of in-depth dyno results on every single mod, and even had a section on cheap LS1 mods.
The cheap mods section specifically listed changing the intake box as one of the best, easiest ways of gaining 10-15 hp and backed it up with dyno tests.
And that's an independent test, not some company like SLP or K&N trying to push a product with tweaked dyno charts.
Just because something is true for a Japanese DOHC V6 in a Japanese designed car, does NOT mean it holds true for an American pushrod V8 in an American designed car!
I'm sorry if I come off a little rough, but you're the one acting like a know-it-all, when in reality you're spouting off incorrect information.
Does the VQ benefit from intake mods (without tuning) ??? No. Just like you said and this test confirmed.
Dose an LS1? Yes, absolutely, almost every single time.
You want proof? Go buy this: http://isbnlib.com/isbn/193249488X/H...V-8s-SA-Design
I thumbed through it at a summit store in GA, and it was chock full of in-depth dyno results on every single mod, and even had a section on cheap LS1 mods.
The cheap mods section specifically listed changing the intake box as one of the best, easiest ways of gaining 10-15 hp and backed it up with dyno tests.
And that's an independent test, not some company like SLP or K&N trying to push a product with tweaked dyno charts.
Just because something is true for a Japanese DOHC V6 in a Japanese designed car, does NOT mean it holds true for an American pushrod V8 in an American designed car!
I'm sorry if I come off a little rough, but you're the one acting like a know-it-all, when in reality you're spouting off incorrect information.
Good to see Mike got OWNED even when I wasn't here to reply back hahahaSucks that you had "a lot of experience with v8s" but didn't know this very basic piece of information that you learn when you first start learning about v8 mods...
Anyways back on topic, CAI for Gs really suck and definitely not worth the price...
I would stick with revup airbox, ztube and hiflow filter....best combo
probably spent 20-30 hours, not to mention all the metal shavings that were stuck in my skin.
defiantly use a respirator and glasses when grinding, also where full arm protection. when the metal gets into your skin it sucks.
defiantly use a respirator and glasses when grinding, also where full arm protection. when the metal gets into your skin it sucks.
Great test and interesting results. curious to see how a CAI would hold up. Still debating on if I want to go with a z-tube and a JWT popcharger or just get an injen CAI
In all honesty here (2004 G356MT). Last week I bought a AEM cold air with a 1/2 motordyne spacer. I also removed the front shield under the bumper so it gets even more air straight to the aem filter. Instantly after a computer reset and idle lean with the nissan computer, i took it out for a test drive. My throttle response was great, 1-3,500RMP i had so much more throttle response than before, felt torque. I decided to remove the AEM a few days later due to the rain because I did not want any hydrolock. I took it to the shop to have my Z-tube / K&N / Stock air box setup back on. The car next to me was a 06' with its hood opened. I asked the techs what the car was in for. HE said that the owner of the car's wife drove over a few puddles and he got hydrolock. Ohh Shieet! He needed a new motor.
Anyhow- back to the point- with my stock airbox....K&N and Z-tube...it does not feel as responsive in lower rpms as with the AEM Cold air. Bar none, no Bull****....but after 3500 RPM same thing. I guess it's up to the buyer. But i liked the throttle response feeling like i had a little bit more torque on the lower RPMS. In the long run, when running your car at the track your always in the higher RPMS....for daily driving though its nice.
I rather lose a little in the bottom end to be in a predicament about replacing my motor. I felt bad for the guy at the auto shop.
Anyhow- back to the point- with my stock airbox....K&N and Z-tube...it does not feel as responsive in lower rpms as with the AEM Cold air. Bar none, no Bull****....but after 3500 RPM same thing. I guess it's up to the buyer. But i liked the throttle response feeling like i had a little bit more torque on the lower RPMS. In the long run, when running your car at the track your always in the higher RPMS....for daily driving though its nice.
I rather lose a little in the bottom end to be in a predicament about replacing my motor. I felt bad for the guy at the auto shop.
for the record I never tested the CAI version, just the SRI.
but If I had to guess, I'd say the intake didn't actually make more power than the stock box, it just caused the MAF to read the intake air amount incorrectly and start dumping fuel which caused your lean untuned motor to make more power.
but If I had to guess, I'd say the intake didn't actually make more power than the stock box, it just caused the MAF to read the intake air amount incorrectly and start dumping fuel which caused your lean untuned motor to make more power.
+ 1
there is data from as far back as five+ years ago that show CAI are not adventitious... for years it was well known and well documented... over the years people (noobs) stopped researching and starting using civic physics and most that know better stopped caring.
If anyone is super interested - PM DaveO he has boatloads of dyno data from various dyno days back in the day... good luck with response though, he hasnt contributed to the forum for several years.
In the mean time, run your CAI and convince yourself of whatever you want to believe.
If anyone is super interested - PM DaveO he has boatloads of dyno data from various dyno days back in the day... good luck with response though, he hasnt contributed to the forum for several years.
In the mean time, run your CAI and convince yourself of whatever you want to believe.
CAI is definately not worth the risk of hydrolock. You're just adding risk w/o any benefit IMHO.
I already went back to stock with my K&N drop in filter and Z-tube. I don't want any chances of hydrolock period!
