This is not a for sale thread. I have to explicitly say that because I am not a vendor nor sponsor.
The volume of work I get from this can not compensate or justify the $200/month driver wants for vendor/sponsor fees.

This is a tutorial thread to show you where to buy the raw kits, how to make it, and install it.

I haven't kept up my stock in a long while. Haven't responded to PM's in a while (sorry drivers).

 

I just did this fix to both doors and seems to work great. I bought the kit from parts express and alumium bar stock 1/8x3/4 and 14 gage wire from home depot. cost for everything under $40.00. thanks for the tip.

 

If we don't buy the kit, is everything we need listed on the first page? I am confused as to where we get the bracket with 3 screws and the actuator rod that we have to cut... please help!
doing the install tomorrow with a friend who is good at this stuff. Quick response needed!

 

Just tried this today. First time around I didnt have to much attention to detail setting everything up, so at the end the actuator would lock and not fully unlock. Kept trying to fix it and rescrew everything, but by the time I thought i had it all lined up the actuator shorted. Tried to put it back together and now the window wont go down... and the lock doesnt work

 

Did you figure out why window won't go down? Forgot to plug something in maybe? If you cut the wires to the original actuator it no longer works if it barely worked before unless you reattached the wires of course. Also if you bought from parts.com or whatever you can return the item within 45 days of purchase with package slip.
And now I'm scared to attempt this...

 

No im not sure why it wont go down. I haven't seen anything unplugged. And I dont think its the motors because when its the motors they wont roll back up. But when I had the car on before the windows worked fine. Took the door panel off and worked on it, and i put it back on with lock not working and the window wouldnt go down. No power sound or struggle at all. i wish i had more time to work on the locks more. I should have spent more time prepping, but it seemed so much easier in the thread than in person

 

I'm sorry but what more did you need to prep? Just wondering so I get some more 1st hand input before I do this.

 

You have to cut the actuator rod. Cut the aluminum/drill holes/bend it 90 degrees at both ends. You need two 18 inch wires all ready to be tapped in. Then youll have to drill holes in the door panels and stuff like that. If anyone in the St. Louis area has done this can they PM me for possible help? Thanks

 

Thanks for the tut! I did mine yesterday in about 2 hours.

 

Sorry to get to this thread pretty late, Sleeper please update on your lock and window motor status.
When multiple systems go down (lock and window motor), the first thing to check are the fuses. But remember fuses are merely indicators of a problem, and not the actual problem.
You may have nicked a wire from within the door panel, or pulled it, or something. Get your hot wire tester out and start testing the wires in the door, and I'm not talking about the switch panel.
The hot wire tester is one of most essential tools when playing with electronics. If the door lock or window motor is getting power, but not working (it may or may not make a sound, but a sound is a good indicator that it has indeed failed). If the wires are indeed dead, check the fuses, replace the bad fuse, and try again. If that fuse blows as well, you need to check all the window wires inside the door leading to the rubber tube the wires go thru to under the steering wheel.
Let us know how it's going.
Thanks,
Josh

 

And I'd recommend 24" of wire minimum. That's what I put in my kits and when I'm installing them 24" is definitely a minimum because of having to take the door panel on and off with it wired in.
Thanks,
Josh

 

Fixed my problem. I did not remove enough of the tabs so they were stopping the lock from unlocking all the way. Yeah I did about 22 inches on the wire, I was just saying at least 18. My window motor went out just coincidentally with install so when I got a new one it worked. Gotta love g35's haha

 

Man I've been thru 2 window motors and one door lock. My car was my first tester so I did both locks anyways so I'll never know if the other one's gonna die, and it's disconnected.
Oh yea, and my trunk lid popper wires snapped too.
Thanks Nissan!

 

Just did this to both of my doors. Originally took the car to Infiniti and they told me that both of my actuators were out and it was going to cost over $1,000 to fix them! $35 and a couple hours later and im back up and running. Thanks for putting up the tutorial. You saved me a TON of money.

 

Will this same actuator from parts express work on the passenger side too?

Also, is this the same thing? I found it on amazon and it's cheaper.