it started with the passenger door, slowly started getting more difficult to open, very stiff. Then the driver side door started the same pattern, and now I can't even get the passenger door unlocked. So I am going to try and take the panel off with door close, i can't get that door to unlock for the life of me.

The driver door is very stiff, and lately I have been holding the unlock button on the fob, so that the windows go down. I then manually unlock the door, but it's getting very stiff and I expect it to be just like the passenger door soon enough.

I have the actuator mounted, and it almost has enough clearance, i did test it and it does have the strength/power to lock and unlock on the driver side door.

I don't get how the actuator failing causes it to be so stiff and then basically stuck. Anyway, I guess I wil have to just get OEM part, sucks because I have already modified the handle, so the tab is cut away that secures the cable, i'll just rig it.

I assume changing the stock actuator is a job and a half to complete? More of a PITA than anything I assume.

It's a 2003 sedan, so it's quite old. Deale wants $150 for brand new actuator, kind of need it fixed ASAP so I may just have to shell out the cash.

If not the actuator what else can it be? I also am not able to unlock the driver side door with the key, it turns but it is very stiff and doesn't unlock. Turning clockwise is smoother than when turning counter clockwise. When turning counter clockwise it almost feels as if the key may snap

Any help/input would be greatly appreciated. I have a road trip on Thursday, and really hoping to have this done before then.

Also are the actuators interchangeable from say 2003 to 2005?

 

I would say that any actuator from a sedan would work for any year of G35, but i could be wrong, just assuming since nothing big changed besides DE to HR engines.

With the stiffness in the key turning, do you also feel this stiffness when using the manual unlock lever inside?
If not, your problem is your key hole it is rusting or eroding.
If yes, then your actuator (it does everything related to the latch and lock) is rusting out or eroding.
But if the $5 actuator is able to lock/unlock the door with ease, i would blame the keyhole (for the difficulty, not loss of function).
I will say that your situation is mighty peculiar. For all of them to die out, but not at the same time. And since the $5 actuators work, it shows the BCM is working fine.
I'd really have to work on it to get a better idea. But I don't even think your dealer would have the OEM actuators on hand to be able to fix them "ASAP" for you.
Hopefully you have time to dig into them before your trip, and feel free to post up any more questions.

 

Yes it is the same stiffness when using the lever/**** from inside the car.

Even when I do have it unlocked, sometimes i go to open the door and it open an inch or two and then is caught on I assume a almost fully unlocked lever. I then have to pull the door closed again, lock the door manually using the lever, I then hear a click (as in locked) I then unlock again manually using the lever/**** and I can then open the door (this is from inside)

The same takes place from outside where it is unlocked, I pull the outside door handle and the door open maybe an inch and is then stuck in a position where I can freely push it closed to open (but no more than an inch ajar) It also won't actually close fully, as it doesn
t catch. So I have to either using the fob to lower window and physically use the inside lever/**** or access it reaching to front door via the back seat/door. Pretty annoying, it used to only happen in winter.

So I assume it is eroded as you said?? Is it worth while to take apart and clean and try to restore function to the part? Or am I better off getting a new one?

Actually, does the behaviour I described identify the actuator as being at fault?

 

Going to buy actuator today, any input from members would be great, before I buy. Actuator at fault?

 

The $5 actuator only works if the OEM actuator is at least working non electronically.
You may get lucky if there is a TSB about this. But we do have 10 year old cars now.
I've never removed an OEM actuator, but I know the dealer charges for 1.5 hours per door, to give you an idea of how long one door will/should take.

 

Thanks for all the help and info Pythonjosh. And your write up was excellent, i did succeed in installing it however my faulty actuators are preventing me from still having a properly functioning door

So, just to confirm the symptoms I described would indicate the actuator at fault? I asked the dealer to order the part, but will cancel if some other component may be the cause.

No clue how I am going to get the passenger door open, i can't get the door to unlock for the life of me. Will try to get panel off and then pull really hard ont he cable with pliers or something. It won't budge at all right now when using the door unlock/lock **** on the handle

 

Yea you will definitely need the whole actuator. Nissan might not want the core, and if so, feel free to take it apart, i'm interested as to what is going on in there.
And door lock problems almost never happen in sedans, you can for sure pull some from a part out or a totalled car. Gen1-1.5 I can guarantee (assume) they will fit, but not the gen2's.

 

I'm gonna have to give this a try as my actuator just STB.

 

and sure don't want to pay oem prices

 

Can anyone tell me why people are putting 5 dollar hong kong actuators in a high end car?

 

^can anyone tell me why is this guy spamming our new post Section ? Btw high end car? !?! Lol

 

spamming? wow, ummm ok, and yes high end, when a car can easily still go for 12-15k when its 10 years old, thats a high end car ( in my opinion of course ), you can get similar years of bmw and mercedes for way less, i had a simple question, why are people putting cheap stuff in their car, maybe i'm ocd, and would like the car to have good stuff in it, just my personal preference

 

Are you f'n kidding me? Obviously the oem actuators are garbage so why would you spend all that money on oem when they just failed you. Just because its a "high end car" doesn't mean you have to blow a bunch of money on something that can be fixed for a cheaper price.

It's not like we're all buying knock off **** and making the car ricey. It's an easy and affordable fix that can't even be seen and nobody would even notice the difference if you didn't tell them.

Find something better to do with your time.

 

My actuators have a big renault on them.....both not working....says it all really......sorry renault lovers...take the vq35s and put them in espaces and give nissan crappy door locks that just about all break....

 

When I bought my '05 coupe used from a private party both locks weren't working. Infiniti wanted $600 after parts and labor so i did this fix. It really ended up being about $15 but thats still great. I did both doors myself. For the mounting bracket I bought a piece of aluminum from home depot, cut it and used a bent it with the help of a vice(if I remember correctly I cut it so it was 10'' before i bent it and 8'' after). The longest part for me was eyeing out all of the holes to mount the bracket. I wanted to make sure i got it right instead of drilling a million holes. It also helps to have an extra set of hand while hooking up the rod to the locking tab on the door handle. It's been about half a year and it's still running strong! The door locks are a little stiffer when locking them manually but you don't notice it after a while and to be honest I try to use the button so much more just because I'm happy that my locks work again(after 6 months of having to do everything manually and locking my keys in my car multiple times because of it)