Made some more kits. Message me.

 

I’m highly doubtful, but I’m wondering if you know if this works on a 2012 g37 coupe

 

It'll work because it's still 12v. But I guarantee the bracket won't fit the door panel. You're 100% sure it's the actuator that died?
Would you happen to be in So Cal? I could work on your car to not only diagnose but if it is the actuator, I can make a bracket to fit it.
Thanks,
Josh

 

Im fairly certain. The driver side lock started getting weaker and weaker when using the button on the door, or the button on the key fob, then stopped working entirely. Only the passenger side door would react to the buttons. About a month later, the same happened to the passenger side.

I live in Alberta Canada. Dealer parts are way more expensive where I live. I’ve been reading forums and browsing online for quite some time now. It doesn’t seem there is a universal kit or aftermarket option for 2011+ models that also ships to Canada. Even discounted or refurbished OEM actuators are $300-$500 each.

Any suggestions are appreciated.

 

What you describe sounds pretty much correct with the actuator dying. So you have a 2012 G37xS Coupe. I will have to find one to get accurate measurements and make a kit for it.
No guarantee on when I can get this done. If you're feeling handy, see if you can open up your door panel and we'll see what we can do.

 

Let me know if you’re able to find anything.

This link shows some pictures with the door panel off.
https://www.myg37.com/forums/d-i-y-i...oor-panel.html

 

I know this is an old thread, but i'm a new G owner and need this kit if it is still available. I tried to message Josh but it said that he is not accepting Private Messages. Any help would be great! Thanks,.

 

I installed an aftermarket actuator on my car today since my original was starting to die. Im throwing a few pics up in case anyone is interested in doing it themselves. I think these pics would help with the install. I did it without using a bracket. I just screwed the actuator onto the door itself. I got the actuator from Ebay. $10 bucks for 2 actuators…bargain!!




Here is the whole thing in one shot. Since I was gonna install the actuator onto the door itself, I removed the entire black assembly off the door to make sure there was nothing behind it I would drill into. If you go this route, you can find the wire harness for the door lock actuator all the way at the bottom of the door. Its held on by the clips which I have circled in red. But removing the entire black plate is a pain in the aśś, so its easier to just remove the speaker and look for the wiring harness through there. Inside thhe harness you will find a blue and a purple wire. These are the wires you need to tap into. (I did this on my 05 coupe driver side door. I think the wiring colors are the same for all years but I could be wrong). Hook up your new actuator to these wires. The actuator needs to push out when unlocking and pull in when locking. If its doing the opposite, then you have it wired backwards. Flip your wires.





In this picture, the 2 arrows are pointing to the weld points. If you install your actuator between these 2 points, nothing will be in its way. Everything will move freely and the door trim panel will install perfectly back on without having to cut any of the plastics or removing any of the foam. Between these 2 points is the perfect place to install your actuator. (For reference, the actuator is extended in this picture).





Here is another shot of the actuator for fitment purposes. In case you are shopping for an actuator and dont know which one to get, this one is about 6.25” from end to end when extended. I think theyre all about this size, but Im just throwing it on here if itll make it easier for anyone shopping for which actuator to purchase. Anyway, once u have the actuator, line it up on the door and mark your drilling points where the screws should go. Find some sheet metal screws that are the correct length for the job. About a half inch longer than the actuator body should be fine. You dont want the screws too long or it will interfere with the window as it moves up and down.





After you have the actuator installed, you can get to hooking it up to the actuator cable. Your new actuator should have came with a few parts like this so you can can connect it to the cable. Measure out where to cut into the cable. You will have to remove 3 layers before u get to the actual metal rod which moves the locking mechanism. The first layer is plastic. Second layer is strands of metal cable. The third layer is a thin plastic tubing. You can see all the layers in this picture. Once u cut out all those layers, you can connect your actuator to the metal actuating rod inside. Be sure to cut out enough section of the layers so the whole thing can move freely from lock to unlock position. My actuating rod was too thin so I had to wrap some aluminum tape over it to make it thicker so the screws could bite down onto it firmly without sliding. You might have to get creative with your kit, depending on the parts they sent with it.




And thats all….hope it helps!!