Here's my review of the 10-wire AT kit:

Build quality of the wires is top-notch. Nice thick wires with solid connectors. Far superior to any of the other ground wire kits I've seen. Plus the larger gauge wires look so nice, I opted to keep my engine cover off.

I started by installing the initial 8 wires to test out their benefit separate from the full 10 wire kit (which includes the ECU/TCU wires also). Install time was about 30 minutes and the instructions were failrly easy to interpret. After a quick ECU reset and some spirited driving, I felt like I hadn't gotten the benefit that others had. Nothing noticebly different at startup or idle, and both automatic (D) and manual mode seems to be unchanged. I gave it a week and still could not say I felt any significant difference.

After installing the ECU/TCU wires (again about a 30 minute install), I reset the computer and more spirited driving. This time I could feel a difference. The idle and startup remained the same, but the shifting felt more fluid in both modes. The easiest way for me to describe the change is that the car shifts more naturally than before. If I need to pass someone, the car seems to know the proper gear to shift into based on my gas pedal position. Before I might have to press down the gas, it would down shift once, I'd have to apply more gas, then I'd get an overly dramatic shift down. Also, I've noticed that when the car does shift now, most times there's less of a lurch to the car. Also, the car does seem a little less sluggish from a stop if I give it a little more gas than normal. I doubt that there would be anything other than a nominal gain (if any) on a dyno, but my car does seem a bit faster off the line.

One other benefit I've seen that I don't think anyone has talked about yet is gas mileage. I am a HUGE sceptic of these type of things, but after a couple of tanks with better mileage and no appreciable difference in driving, I think the increase can only be attributed to the GroundingGear. I fairly routinely check my MPG at every tank and for the first 30,000 miles on the car, I got a consistent 23.5 mpg. Since installing the wires, I've gotten 23.8, 25.5, 25.0, and 24.3 mpg. Mind you, I did take a 2 hour round trip over flat ground when I got the 25.5 mpg, but other than that I keep fairly consistent in my driving week to week.

All in all, I'm very happy with the purchase of these wires. While I may not have reaped the same benefits of others, based on their reviews, I still feel that buying this product was well worth the money.

Thanks Gord for offering a great product at a very reasonable price!

 

Mine didn't improve by any real degree. I was still getting about 19mpg in mostly city driving.

 

Ok.. I got my G-Gear yesterday and I installed it today. Before the installation I read some, if not all the comments posted on here. I took some notes on vehicle performance prior to my installation so I would have something to compare. I will start from the begining.
#1 Instructions: The instructions are very clear, precise, and easy to follow. I can not estimate the installation time because I had people, phone calls and lunch interupting me.
#2 I am not an electrical engineer by any stretch of the imagination but I have been a mechanic for many years.
I believe that some of the 10 wires I installed seemed redundant or unnecessary.

Examples;
Wires 4&5 run from the intake plenum to the front of the engine block. THe intake bolts directly to the block in various places with several bolts and there appears to be a lot of surface contact area also. Are these wires necessary?

Wire 7 runs from the back of the intake to the transmission. The transmission is bolted directly to the engine with several bolts (at least 6) and a lot of surface to surface gasketless contact. The engine is grounded to chassis in several places including the #4&6 wires. I think the #7 wire appears useless.

Wire 8 runs from the front of the cam housing to the back of the cam housing. This seems very unnecessary since there are 12 to 14 bolts connecting the two. Wire 8 appears to be useless.

The "E" wire grounds the ECU to the engine. The engine is grounded very well to the chassis by now so why not run a short wire to from the ECU to the chassis under the glove box instead of poking holes in grommets.

The "T" wire. The TCU is mounted directly to the chassis on the 05 eliminating the need for the "T" wire.

It was also nice to notice that Infiniti thought it was a good idea to run the fresh air vent directly into the battery box. I cant wait until my battery leaks filling my cabin with sulfuric acid fumes..

Performance:
I performed the ECU reset as directed.
The wires did do something because it totally screwed up my G-TechPro RR. The tach mode is all out of whack and I could not get it to calibrate. I will work on that later.
The shifting in manual mode is noticibly faster. Before the GroundingGear I could count a full second or more from the time I moved the lever to the time it finally decided to shift. Now it shifts nearly instantly.
I did not notice a performance gain but I read that after the ECU reset it may take a little while.
As for the wires that I feel are unnecesary maybe one of you electrical engineers or Gordgee could clear that matter up.

They do look cool though..

 

Though the engine components and tranny are firmly bolted to other (gasketless) compontents, the interface and/or the dissimilar metals seems to introduce a certain amount of noise in signal transfer (at least this is the working theory).

Many tests were done with even the front ground points. Both are on the same piece of metal, yet there was a difference if the H-G System was split and attached to the separate points (from each side of the engine, rather than attached all together). A difference was also noted when the factory grounds were attached to one point, and the H-G wires to the other, rather than to one point.

Another tester noticed a change when he disconnected wire 5, and wire 4 alternatively (noted somewhere in the Hyper-Ground Monster Thread in FAQ).

The #7 wire (the first GroundingGear™ exclusively developed wire) is where testers first noticed the differences over the basic 5 wire kits available back in 2002 and 2003.

The TCU components, location, etc. have moved from one production run to another. All variations have been taken into account, and still seem to benefit from the TCU wire.

All wires and points have gone through extensive testing which resulted in the GroundingGear™ Systems as they are today.

Remember, I also believe that cars are adequately electrically grounded. It's maximizing Signal transfer that GroundingGear™ is all about, and why it seems to do something on virtually every vehicle it has been tried on.

Odd about the G-Tech however. I'm not sure why it would affect it at all, but I'm not sure how the G-Tech receives it's signals. It doesn't affect my G-Timer 2, but my G-Timer doesn't receive Tach signals.

 

Dave:

Thank-you for your feedback.

I was really hoping that you'd notice some differences, especially since you've noted previous failure of H-G kits on Maximas, etc. (Not based on feedback that I've received from dealership techs. Both techs and their customers have noted improvements).

Some of the greatest satisfaction has been in converting even hard-nosed skeptics, especially some of the dealership techs, Management, etc. Many have, as you have done, purchased the GroundingGear™ specifically to show that there would be no effect, and to their surprise, have often noted changes for the better, sometimes within the first few minutes of their drive! It's also interesting when there are 'blind' comments from spouses, etc. who, because they aren't even aware that anything has been installed, placebo effects don't even enter the picture.

Anyway, there are a handful of GroundingGear™ users that notice minimal effects, or none at all (less than 0.2% of the feedback received). I think that that's a pretty good track record for any mod, much less one that to most (including me in the beginning), doesn't make any sense that it should do anything at all.

Anyway, I'm glad that you tried it. I hope the person that you sold it to has better response from his install. I'm hoping that at least you like the HEPA filter.

 

Ok, that makes sense, I thought both were aluminum but even so.. Thats why I'm not the expert..


Ok, that explains the wires going from 2 separate points on the same intake to ground

very good.. I dont know about they G-Tech either, but I will play with that later.. Thanx for the explanations.. after you explain them it seems so obvious..

 

Maybe I got a "Tuesday" car After reading more posts by other 5AT owners and their descriptions of how their 5AT takes about 1+ seconds to shift when manually selected (no grounding kit), I can safely say my 5AT doesn't do that. Your product was of excellent quality and you were responsive to the order. I have no complaints. I removed and sold the GG kit because I figured I get more money back the quicker I sold it. No worries. As for the filter, yeah, it rocks.

 

Way back, when the 'kits' were just 5 wires (how it all got started on the G35 and 350Z), virtually all noticed a significant change in smoothness and throttle response. It was with the further development of the extra wires that other benefits were noticed, as well as a noticeable increase in the effects of the basic Systems. The real surprise was the significant improvement found on the 5AT in terms of tranny response, so in effect, the 5AT drivers got a sort of 'double whammy' benefit from the same mod.

The basic effects are still noticed on those with 6MTs, as they are on the numerous vehicles for which GroundingGear Systems have been developed and tested. Some, also get the AT improvements as well, including with the 7wire System developed for the IS300.

I remember when the Magazines were getting 4 to 14hp from this mod (I wish! ), many did it as a power mod. Frankly, I was only able to consistently demonstrate about 4 or 5 hp on repeated dyno analysis, but I doubt that my butt dyno would feel that difference. The better throttle response and smoothness was immediately noticeable however and translated to better drivablility. This is what I had hoped you'd notice.

Oh well, as I said, I appreciate your feedback, and am pleased that you like the filter.

 

I just want my own car back...get rid of this crappy non-GroundingGear™Equipped loaner. I think everyone (at least those with a 5AT) should invest in Godgee's 10-wire GroundingGear™ System...it is one of the best bang-for-your-buck mods for the G35!! [/QUOTE]

hahaa..that is me....
i have Gordgee's 10-wire GroundingGear™....LOL
damn...i know how you feel ....
i love it

THanks Gord...

 

Gord. Just to let you know, some requests are still coming in for your Installation Instructions. You're still don't want us to pass them on, correct? I just told them to ask you directly.

BTW, expect an e-mail from another collegue. He just got a new Acura TL, and was impressed with my set on the G and our collegue's 350z. Have you done any Acura's yet?

 

Just posting so i can pm Gordgee for his GroundingGear Kit.

 

2 more...

 

1 more..

 

last one.

 

I have finally gotten around to putting the GroundingGear wires in the G today. Mind you the weather for it wasn't as warm as I would have liked to have it, but its a close to a warm day you can get despite the cold fingers and runny nose usually working outside in the cold. After reading the instructions twice just for good measure and yes you should read the instructions as stated in the first 5 lines of the sheets. I proceeded to to do the installation of the wires.

Following the instructions to a "T" there were minimal issues encountered with the installation. I did have a little trouble with lower bolt of the hood sensor not going in properly until I found the groove and it went in smooth. I didn't have a torque wrench available to me so I basically went by memory as to how much force was needed to loosen the bolts out. Careful care was taken on one of the manifold bolts not to overtighten since it looked like it was attatched to the lower plenum. In the instructions I had to drill a 5/16" hole in the rubber grommet where there is a wire loom entering the battery compartment. Unfortunately, trying to push the wire through that was just a pain in the a$$ so I decided to use a 1/2" wood bit through the rubber and then fed the wire through with some effort. The fit was just perfect as the hole created a nice proper seal with the wire, so worries there.

With all of the wires in their allocated spots, I tightened all of the bolts and ensured no cross-threading or overtightening. I was worried about getting the cover back on because of the wires, but that was short lived with the wires did not interfere with securing the cover. Now since I disconnected the battery prior to the installation of the wires to necessitate not having to do an ECU reset after hooking the negative battery terminal back on again. I went ahead and started the G and to my surprise the car started very smoothly and idled smooth. Blipping the throttle, proved the engine to be much more responsive than the usual chug-vrooom sound I kept getting without the wires, so the wires did make an improvement on the responsiveness and smoothness of the throttle.

I took the G for a 15 minute spin on the Highway and did some WOT so that the ECU can recognize the new signal. I kinda felt the G was just a reall nice happy low purring pu$$ycat when you put the G in WOT it just pounces the pavement and continues on. Gone is the growl I kept getting when I was letting off the clutch that absolutely annoyed me a great deal. This is certainly well worth the investment for any G or any other performance vehicle.

THANKS GORD!!

One exception, since it was too bloody cold to do it and the fact that I wasn't really prepared to rip out the glove compartment to put in the ECU wire, The wires still provide a good amount of performance. Now, I just wish the weather would warm up so I can complete the wiring and see what gains there are with connecting the ECU wire up.

K