Thanks Urban, when I finally decided to buy a Goat I scoured the internet and local sales looking for a car that met my criteria: 05-06 only (the 04 has an LS1 and plain hood), unmolested, low miles, non-smoking owner/s, M6 and one with maintenance records. Picky I know but that's what I wanted. I was willing to fly anywhere in the country to pick it up and drive it home. As luck would have it, 11 months later I found Peyton in Houston where I was living at the time briefly. Spice Red Metallic (only available in 06), 27.1K miles, bone stock except for an Alpine DD, M6. It was a 2 owner car, both of which were about my age, garage kept in the South it's whole life and just a weekend warrior for the 2 previous owners. As it sits she's only 1 of 101 ever made exactly like her which is totally cool and looked/smelled new when I bought her. Out of al the cars I have owned this one is my favorite so far. Great DD, very basic and a blast to drive.

Cleric you're right, unless someone knows what she is which is not as many people out there than I would have guessed, she's the perfect sleeper. I made a promise to myself to leave her 99% bone stock and the only aftermarket part I have put on was replacing the stock resonator with a Pypes Xbox. Added a deeper tone and a touch of exotic rumble. Based on how much I spent on the G over the years I didn't want to go down that road again. The Australian build quality, materials and fit and finish was light years ahead of the Pontiac vehicles of the mid 2000's that were produced here. And yes 400/400 isn't anywhere close to the output the LS2 and Tremec T56 transmission are capable of.

 

Nothing. It's currently at my boys shop with a missing drivers side door as I needed to order a new shell since a Korean Lady hit me. And no, her insurance isn't going to cover it as (1) This took place last year, (2) She claimed I was partial at fault, and (3) I'm just over it as it's not worth my deductible or to go through arbitration - as I ordered a new shell for $300. Whereas, once it's done, I shall be consulting with RT Tuning in PA for my future TT Setup after installing a S2LB 2 years ago.

P.S. Does anyone have the hookup in Maryland for Emissions? XD

 

Accidentally shifted into 2nd on the highway today looking for 4th.... going about 80. I caught it before letting the clutch all the way out and immediately slammed my foot to the floor but the tach went all the way to 8k. The RPMS fell straight to zero, never even touched idle. I was sure I had blown my engine but since I was going 75 past traffic in the left lane I tried to start her up again and she fired right back up. Sounds normal, feels normal, pulls normal. Drove it home, changing the oil before I drive it again just to make sure there aren't metal flecks and I should be putting the G back on Craigslist where I found it before the engine explodes... Lol


I think I just scared it a little bit into cutting fuel. Crossing my fingers

 

the money shift, lol. i wouldnt be too worried, it sounds like you caught it right away anyway. i did that once, same thing too from 3rd-2nd. it's definitley an "oh s***" moment. glad you didn't damage anything though.

 

You'll know if you ever do overrev a motor because the damage is immediate and catastrophic

 

Amen, there's no halfway blown motor when it comes to the moneyshift.... it gets messy real quick

 

Sounds like there's a rev-limiter and it kicked in doing it's job. Tell it "Thank you!".

 

There's a chance I'm wrong, but I believe the rev limiter/ fuel cutoff doesn't engage on a downshift

 

I would expect that it engages, but with good chance it won't make a difference. That's because with the inertial momentum of 1.75 tons of car pushing forward, that engine is going to get spun to higher revs, even if the electronics shut it down. The only hope is to get off the clutch fast like OP did (or have a really worn out clutch ). Close call!

 

Yeah I bet it shut down because of the rev limiter... It detected I was pushing 8k RPMs and cut fuel, but since I slammed the clutch so fast it almost "bounced" back down to normal speeds, the fuel never got a chance to start flowing again before it stalled out.


I felt like a real idiot as I had just floored it past a New Edge Mustang, right as I pass him I misshift and he just hears brrrrrrrrWAWAWWAWAWAWAWaaaaaaaaaaaaa and then no more noise from my fart cannons, put on emergency blinkers, pulls over to the right lane, starts coasting.


I'd probably be laughing if I were in the Mustang.... "What an idiot" ahahahaha

 

 

Well dayum!

 

I don't know much about how rev-limiters work but why would there be "conditions" where it kicks in vs not kicking in ? A mis-downshift is a perfect scenario for needing it. I know the car or scenario in question is a manual, but in an automatic, other than when you're in "DS" mode, I don't think it will the car will not allow it to exceed redline.

 

Rev limiters prevent you from over-revving the engine on acceleration, usually by cutting fuel. Say, for example, that redline was at 7000rpm, and 7000rpm in 2nd gear was equal to 60mph. If you're going 40mph and start accelerating in 2nd gear, once you reach 60mph (7000 rpm), the ECU will cut fuel so you don't over-rev the engine, forcing you to shift so you can continue to accelerate. If you downshift into 2nd at 75mph, the engine can cut fuel, but it won't matter since you're already traveling 75mph, so re-engaging the clutch at that speed and gear will force the engine to spin faster than the 7000 rpm redline. On auto cars, the exact same thing would happen, but since shifting in an auto is all controlled electronically, the ECU simply tells the car not to shift until below the maximum speed for 2nd gear. Does that make sense?

 

Ive a accidentally shifted the wrong way on the auto-before and it simply won't let you shift the wrong way over revving. It's nice.