My morning at Eibach .

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  #136  
Old 05-14-2007, 02:46 PM
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wow $1300 just for a camber kit? gettin raped right there. camber kit for my honda was only couple hundred bucks.
 
  #137  
Old 05-14-2007, 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Infamous425
wow $1300 just for a camber kit? gettin raped right there. camber kit for my honda was only couple hundred bucks.
Nope, not $1300. Part number 5.72260K from Eibach is the rear camber arm set for the 07 sedan (please confirm for yourself). The retail is $240. You can usually get it for $180 from their distributers. And that is per pair.

The front upper A arms would be more costly if you need them. Still no word from Eibach on those yet.
 
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Old 05-15-2007, 02:40 PM
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Just confirmed with Eibach:

Part number / pricing summary:

5.72260K = Rear camber arm pair, $240 retail.
7.72265K = Rear toe bolt pair, $37 retail.

Parts begin shipping on 6/1/07

Prices are historically lower through Eibach than direct through SPC. Don't bother calling SPC yet, their customer service folks don't know about these part numbers.
 
  #139  
Old 05-18-2007, 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by 808MIKE
Hey Terrycs. I forgot to ask a while back, you said after the rear Camber Kit Install the rear raised a little? Can you post a current Pic with the rear Camber Kit Installed? Just want to see how it looks like now, with the rear Kit you put on. Would apprecite it if it's not too much trouble! THx.
The amount the rear went up is barely noticeable. Like the original pictures, the focal point is on the bottom of the wheel arch.

Here ya go ...



 
  #140  
Old 05-18-2007, 11:17 PM
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Originally Posted by terrycs
Just confirmed with Eibach:

Part number / pricing summary:

5.72260K = Rear camber arm pair, $240 retail.
7.72265K = Rear toe bolt pair, $37 retail.

Parts begin shipping on 6/1/07

Prices are historically lower through Eibach than direct through SPC. Don't bother calling SPC yet, their customer service folks don't know about these part numbers.

Thnax Terrycs! So I need to pick up both of these Parts? The TOE and the Arms? Oh and thnx for the pics, yea there is hardly any diffrence in height from before! Looks like my order will be going in next month!
 
  #141  
Old 05-18-2007, 11:34 PM
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Originally Posted by 808MIKE
Thnax Terrycs! So I need to pick up both of these Parts? The TOE and the Arms? Oh and thnx for the pics, yea there is hardly any diffrence in height from before! Looks like my order will be going in next month!
I'd say camber arms for sure. You can install them yourself. I'd go ahead and get the toe bolts just in case since they are not that much more.

Yea, I think 0.24" is about the tread thickness. The difference in camber was more noticeable in person.
 
  #142  
Old 05-19-2007, 05:43 PM
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Good tire wear at 6k miles ...

Thought I'd take a picture of the front tire to see how it is wearing. Remember, there are no camber arms up front right now. This is a pic of the front tire, passenger side, taken from the front of the car. So far, so good.



While at it, I took a few others and posted them in this thread for those that are bored:

https://g35driver.com/forums/showthr...87#post1983887
 
  #143  
Old 05-19-2007, 05:57 PM
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Did you have to elongate the hole for the toe bolts? For whatever reason I really don't like having to do that. What do the alignment specs come out to if you leave the toe alone after lowering?
 
  #144  
Old 05-19-2007, 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by SinCityG35
Did you have to elongate the hole for the toe bolts? For whatever reason I really don't like having to do that. What do the alignment specs come out to if you leave the toe alone after lowering?
If you have to do the rear toe bolts, the hole will need to be elongated. Again, there is plenty of material and there would be no structural issues (otherwise SPC/Eibach would be on the hook).

Rear toe factory spec is min=0, nom=.12, max=.23

lowered and aligned without toe bolt, I had .11 / .26

lowered and aligned with toe bolt, I had .15 / .12

Look for the thread with install instructions and pictures. You'll see that elongating the holes was not a big deal. If you still feel uneasy, you can always get them only if you need them.
 

Last edited by terrycs; 05-20-2007 at 12:35 AM.
  #145  
Old 05-20-2007, 12:21 AM
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Is that .11 (left)/(.26 right) stock after lowering
and .15(left)/(.12 left) aftermarket

What are the stock specs supposed to be?
can't you even out the rear corners to be equally off instead of being so uneven?
 
  #146  
Old 05-20-2007, 12:33 AM
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Originally Posted by SinCityG35
Is that .11 (left)/(.26 right) stock after lowering
and .15(left)/(.12 left) aftermarket

What are the stock specs supposed to be?
can't you even out the rear corners to be equally off instead of being so uneven?
Sorry, I edited my post to clarify. The measurements are drivers side / passenger side.

I guess it's possible, I didn't bother to ask since the difference is only .03". Can any of you alignment experts comment if this is significant?
 
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Old 05-20-2007, 02:36 AM
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what I meant by asking was. Can't you even them out with the OEM toe bolts. I realize you won't be completely in spec, but can't you at least make them even? It was weird to me how one was .11 and the other .26, can't they be evened out with the factory bolts? Why are they so different?
 
  #148  
Old 05-20-2007, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by SinCityG35
what I meant by asking was. Can't you even them out with the OEM toe bolts. I realize you won't be completely in spec, but can't you at least make them even? It was weird to me how one was .11 and the other .26, can't they be evened out with the factory bolts? Why are they so different?
O, I C what you mean ... the numbers are uneven because the factory bolts ran out of adjustment on one side, hence the need for after market toe bolts on my car. You might get lucky and not need them, but you won't know until the camber arms are installed.
 
  #149  
Old 05-20-2007, 01:40 PM
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well could you have adjusted the bolt with more adjustment to equal the settings of the bolt will let adjustment, so as that the settings from right to left would at least be even. I realize they would be slightly out of spec, but at least they would match instead of having such a difference. In other words was it possible to get them both to .26 instead of 1 being at .26 and one being at .11?
 
  #150  
Old 05-20-2007, 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by SinCityG35
well could you have adjusted the bolt with more adjustment to equal the settings of the bolt will let adjustment, so as that the settings from right to left would at least be even. I realize they would be slightly out of spec, but at least they would match instead of having such a difference. In other words was it possible to get them both to .26 instead of 1 being at .26 and one being at .11?
Yes, it was possible.
 


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