Yes, you want the last 2, if not the last 3 on that list.


Pulling the battery and clearing the codes does not perform the same function, that only does the first section on that link.
You're likely to get the same problem again soon.

 

honestly idk how to do what its saying. LIKE "Make sure that the throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound." is this all done from the gas pedal. or do i need to take the intake off? idk how to confirm by operation sound if the car isnt on.

 

Erm, yeah that one's written in spanglish, i believe it's the same for the 350z, so check out that one.

And yes, it's all done from the throttle pedal, just use that.

 

alright i found a better one went threw the process and it worked. timing is critical! but once i shut the car off it went back to high idle. i even drove it around and let it sit and idle for half an hour.

 

Which setup did you go through?

 

Originally Posted by maxpusher
In CA, the parts stores will not let you rent OBD II scanners. The mechanics filed a claim saying they are taking there business.

The car is idling just under 1000 rpm - while driving and when performing the procedures listed below.

When i punch my gas to a higher rpm from idling, as the rpms come down back to 1000, it jumps up to 1500 and then settles back to 1000. Is this normal?

Here is how I do the relearn procedure. My car is a 6MT. I don't know if I should be pressing the clutch or not.

Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning
1) Leave ACC pedal "as is”
2) Turn IGN switch “ON” – at least 2 sec
3) Turn IGN switch “OFF” – at least 10 sec
4) Turn IGN switch “ON” – at least 2 sec
5) Turn IGN switch “OFF” – at least 10 sec

Wait 10 sec for next procedure

Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning
1) Leave ACC pedal “as is”
2) Turn IGN switch “ON” – appr 3-4 sec
3) Turn IGN switch “OFF” – at least 10 sec

Wait 10 sec for next procedure

Idle Air Volume Learning
1) Leave ACC pedal “as is”
2) Start engine and warm up to operating temp – temp gauge around middle
3) Turn IGN switch “OFF” – at least 10 sec
4) Turn IGN switch “ON” – 3 sec
5) Fully depress and release ACC pedal – 5 times within 5 sec
6) Wait 7 sec
7) Fully depress ACC pedal for appr 20 sec – during this time CEL blinks
8) When CEL light is “ON”, not blinking – fully release ACC pedal
9) Turn the engine “ON” within 3 sec
10) Start engine and idle
11) Wait 20 sec
12) Rev engine 2-3 times and check IDLE and TIMING

IDLE = 950 rpm
TIMING = ? – don’t have a tool to check

Let me know if I am doing anything wrong. Thanks.

This is what i did, it worked fine its just after i shut it off it for got. well my idle went down after i did it car acted fine, but the service engine soon light never went off. i assumed it would take a while.

 

supertrooper, the code you are still getting is p1574? That's not related at all, something else is amiss and the relearn won't fix that code. You are just resetting it with the pedals, just like on the scanner. It will keep coming back until that issue is solved.

 

I don't think he's listening

 

I'm listing i haven't had time to reply I've been in the hospitable. I didn't remember the code right then. because it said that my idle rpms are 200 high. Which is the problem that everyone is having. I reset the ecu and did the relearning procedures that your supposed to do. TB relearns fine, rpms go down to like 650 at idle and it runs great. If i drive it for 5 min or 30 min it doesn't matter once i shut the car off and start it back up the car goes back to idling around 900 rpms. i tried unplugging the battery all night once, starting the car back up within 10 sec of shutting it off. nothing seems to work. looks like i'm gonna have to pay the dealer 100 bucks to hook it up for 1 min and press a damn button.

 

oh sorry dude, hope you are ok!

 

yeah man i'm good. got a small leak in my aorta valve in my heart. actually more common then people think. but yeah i think the dealer is gonna have to take care of this.

 

Take care man!

I wonder if you just tried driving it and letting it learn for the next week or so (IDK how much you drive, so YMMV) if it might clear itself up. I don't think it would cause any harm to try it and find out anyway.

 

yeah i drive like 75miles a day. I hate my G being the daily driver But it will be a week or so before i got in to the dealership i'll let you know if it works.

 

Is your cruise control not operating when the light comes on?

Based on the code you're throwing, it's the speed sensor, or one of them. It's possible you've not connected the plug fully?

Anyway, it's why it comes on again after a small while, it's doing a comparison between two inputs.

 

2004 Sedan 110K mi.

I did this cleaning along with spraying my MAF with some CRC cleaner and it worked like a charm. it was filthy

The first issue I had was the high idle on cold start of 1200rpm. My understanding is that this is a typical figure, but it was taking me few minutes to get down to approx 700rpm. Since the cleaning it went settled quickly, within like 10 seconds.

The second issue I was having was that my rpm would plummet after a hot start and actually not start up without giving it some gas. After cleaning it fires like a champ.

I know theres a range of results regarding unplugging the battery or the throttle body connector. I didnt't unhook anything, per these OP instructions. I didnt have to move the butterfly to get everything nice and clean. This seemed like the simplest and lowest risk approach to me..

Thanks OP!