The only engine mods I have are grounding wires and the Gen2 Stillen Intakes. Stock exhaust, although I really am thinking about some HFC's now.

Update:
I've been playing around a little more with settings and I advanced the timing 2 degrees with the premium tune and that made a big difference overall. (Cool thing is you can change the timing on the fly, at a stop and in park of course.) The car feels much better. The gas pedal feels more responsive through the range with acceleration feeling way better from a stop or roll. Until this thing gets some Dyno numbers to prove the butt-Dyno feelings, it's hard to say what the tune really did and how much if any HP/TQ/AFR changes were made.

I will say I am very happy at this point and I feel there was a significant improvement with performance.

Suby01, The Punisher, would you agree? Are you guys feeling the same thing I am? Just looking for some additional support to how I felt the changes.

Thanks

 

any detonation under load?

 

Not that I can tell. Engine runs smooth and I drove it for a while with the radio off and windows down to listen for that. Everything seems smooth with no pinging.

 

for give me if this may seem insulting, (im not trying to),

have you heard ping before?

i know exactly what ping is and how it happens, but i honestly don't think i could hear it if it were happening in my G. unless it was really bad

i have heard it on my snowmobile before, but its really hard to hear if you have never heard it before.

and i don't want to ping my $40k car

do you know what im getting at?

2 deg is not that much, (depending on where the stock setting is, does any one know this by the way? and also does any one know what the safe range is?)
but it still freaks me out a little.

id check ur spark plugs in a few hundred miles to see if there is any evidence of ping to be safe

 

No worries...

I have heard ping before in a previous car I've owned as well as others. As for this application I went as far as getting my ear right next to the block after a spirited drive to double check in case it was subtle. I plan on keeping a very close eye this going forward just incase. Like you, I don't want to damage my car for any mod...

Good call on the SP check in a couple hundred miles. I will definitely be doing this.

I do appreciate your input.

I feel this thread would be a good place to post this for others.
You Tube Knock detection clip: Maxima Forum I got this from: http://forums.maxima.org/general-max...ound-clip.html

 

Hmmm I believe that in our cars, they said you can't hear the pings but the the ecu has something that monitors for it specifically.

 

My dealer offers the 2 degree adjustment right in their shop.
I have not accepted the offer though...

 

2* of timing adjustment is enough to make the car ping (if it didn't prior to raising the timing).

In my Mustang, 2* of increased timing made the car ping easily. You could hear the "marbles in the coffee can" sound quite easily, and I had to use octane booster at times to make it go away.

 

dude this thing like i said this thing is ftw.

butt dyno proves it and the rpms prove it shift point/mph prove it and 1/4 mph dont have time just have a 1/4 paced out and i pass the line at a faster speed.

 

advancing 2 degrees isn't going to make a lick of difference over time unless the base map isn't setup for 93 and that's what you're running.

As far as I know, with OBDII, you've got 2 maps and a timing multiplier. Your base map is the timing base table via load and rpm.

Your second map is your timing advance table. At any given rpm and load, your timing can swing this table's advance amount.

Then you've got your multiplier which is a learned value, either positive or negative based on the knock your car is reading.

The timing your car is actually going to run is a learned value based on the following equation.

18(base value) + (2(advance table) * .64(multiplier)) = 19.3 degrees of timing.

Increasing the timing advance table by 2 is all well and good and you'll feel the power increase at first because you'll probably be at your max multiplier after the reset.

18 + (4 * 1.0) = 22

However at the higher timing, without compensating via AFR, you'll be having more knock (btw if you can HEAR the knock, it's catastrophically high. Most acceptable knock is unheard by you). This will result in your multiplier scaling down to compensate and could go negative. Most likely you'll end up running the same overall timing after the ECU learns. The trick is to tune the timing AND the AFR in accordance to find the balance for your octane and the most power via timing advance (and sometimes retarding) vs. AFR correction.

I have no faith in these OTS tuners/maps and would highly recommend going a different route unless dyno evidence (after the ECU learns) shows any gains.

FWIW I've used cobb in the past would see much more value with them because at least I know how they tune and you have the ability to purchase their street tuner software and adjust everything yourself and see what's going on with the tune after it's learned.

 

which dealer? and how much?

 

^^^ Some dealerships do this for free, although generally you're looking at anywhere from $20 to $45 and 15 minutes of your time.

 

everything still running straight after the weekend?

 

Infiniti dealers offer that? I thought only BMW offered the ecu programming..

 

Inskip Infiniti in Warwick, RI
I never asked how much.