Thanks Blain, would you suggest i have the other lips stripped to match or maybe have them all chromed? What is the typical cost for a new lip? One last question, do i need a special socket to take the hardware off or is it a standard star bit?

btw, i am still confused on lip measurement but whatever

 

Up to you, the raw polished is usually brighter than the anodized finish.

Between 200-250 a lip. Depending on size.

They're a 12 point socket, I can't recall the size off the top of my head, but avoid torquing wheels or removing hardware by twisting the "fancy" side of the bolt. Loosen an tighten the hardware buy the nut side inside the barrel.

As for the measurements, just gotta know where the bead is!

This is a 5" lip, from BEAD to FLANGE it's 5"


This is 5.5" lip

 

how durable is the raw polished? my tires are still on the wheels so i don't know where the bead starts unfortunately. i guess maybe wheel flip will have a database or something and can punch in my specs and know without measuring. that's not too bad on the price actually, i will probably do that.

now i am not sure if i want to go .5" or 1" more lip in the front. If i go 1 inch i will need to go .5" more in the rear as well

As for tires, if i got to a 10 inch wide in the front, i will probably need a 235/35 to match the stretch I have now.

 

Gotta keep em clean! Polished lips need a fair bit of maintenance to stay shiny. Being in Arizona you might be ok though.

 

How durable? You should repolish them by hand every once in a while, but you can get away with spot cleaning them with some type of quick detailer between washes. Polishing is such a pain though. Hand cramps! Haha.

The nice thing about having them polished though is that if you ever notice tiny little scratches in the metal you can just polish it down until it looks like a mirror.

 

^ absolutely!

BUT if you pic a wheel where spoke stick out onto the lip you get an area that is basically unpolishable. Same goes for sandwich faced wheels, the portion of the lip around the hardware is impossible to polish.

 

Yeah that's definitely a downside. You could always take the wheel off, unbolt the face (assuming it's not sandwich mounted) and go to town. That sounds a bit excessive though...

 

I currently have 19x9.5 +22 all around and am switching to 19x8.5+25 and 19x9.5+30. How big of a spacer will I need for the 8.5 to fit like my current setup?

Also, I will be switching setups again hopefully soon and will be putting a 10.5 +24 in the rear. How big of a difference is that from my 9.5 +22? Any idea how much added negative camber will make this fit? I'm currently -2? Thanks for the help. Hope these questions make sense.

 

Sorry, looking back I realize that my information was very scattered.

Basically id like to know what I need to fit these specs:

Work Vs-XX
Front: 10.5x19 -6 with a 275/30R19 tire
Back: 11.5x19 -2 with a 295/30R19 tire

Thanks again

 

Those won't fit without serious work, me thinks.

This is how 19x9.5 +22/19x11 +25 fits with 245/275 tires.





Those specs stick out 41mm further than that in the front, and 33mm further than that in the rear.

 

Needs tire stretch:
235/35/19 for fronts and 255/35/19 or 265/30/19 for the rears to start-

 

Going to need stretch like TGM said, also a lot of camber and some fender work. Fenders absolutely need to be rolled flat and you'll want some pull in the rear so you don't have to go super negative on the camber. Below is 19x11.5+2 with 255/35/19 (should have gone 265/30) at -5.5 degrees camber. Fenders are rolled and have a minor pull and still pokes. If you want to stick with the tire sizes you listed you're going to want to look into some form of widebody.

 

8.5" + 10 is equal to 9.5 +22

10.5 +24 is 14mm more aggressive than 9.5 +22.

Need more info to tell you if you need to add camber. (tire size, coupe or sedan, vehicle height)

 

Thanks, do you think id be alright if I switched the 275's that are on the front to the rear and stretched with that? or am I going to need more?

 

You could start there since you've already got them, but it's going to take a good bit of camber (more than I'm running) and a bunch of fender work, but... Honestly, and I don't mean this to sound rude, but this might not have been the ideal first set of aggressive wheels for you. I only say that because it's going to take a good bit of work to get them right. Fitment like that done isn't done over night, it's usually something you work up to. Start with the fenders, get them as flat and pulled as you can and see then how much clearance you have for what size tires. Starting with the tires and then doing the work to make them fit is backwards.