I just got my rims and it looks REALLY fugly at stock height.


I am going to install my Prokits and D-specs tomorrow. I have never done this type of install on a G35 or any other nissan but I have done a lot of honda accords.

Any tips???

 

Get a crowbar ready... for the fronts, I wedged it in the hole in the arm to the end of the sway bar (towards the front of where the wheel would be) and pressed to get enough clearance to take the strut off. the rear is just too simple.

 

Front:

Remove tire

Find nut on lower suspension arm that secures sway bar end link to it, remove it and set it aside.

Use floor jack to raise up suspension enough to push out sway bar end link bolt from lower suspension arm, be carefull to not let washer on bolt fall off, once bolt is out of arm, rotate it a bit so it won't interfer with the lower arm when it's lowered down again.

Lower floor jack and move it aside, but keep it handy for latter.

Locate upper arm, where it bolt's to the suspension upright you will find a nut that has a cotter pin, remove pin (you will not be able to reuse it, make a note now to get yourself a 3/32" by 1" long brass cotter pin to use in it's place).

With cottor pin removed, loosen nut a small amount. If you see a gap between the nut and the upper suspension arm, the ball joint is stuck in the suspension upright, no big deal it happen's all the time to me. If it's stuck, simply use a rubber mallet and tap on the suspension upright and it should pop free. Be carefull when you remove the nut, the main part's of the suspension will flop free rather suddenly, nothing will be damaged, but you might appreciate the surprise. Set nut aside.

Remove lower shock mount bolt and nut from lower suspension arm, set aside.

Pull free the abs/speed sensor line from their compression fittings.

Use 12mm deep socket to remove brake line from bracket, set nut aside.

Pop hood and prop open

Use a 12mm socket and remove two of the 3 upper shock mount bolts, BE CAREFULL they love to fall down into the engine bay. I put the nut's at the base of the windsheild so I can alway's find them. Break loose the last nut on the upper shock mount with about 3 turn's of the ratchet. Get down low so you can push upwards on the shock/spring assembly, this releaves tension on the last shock mount nut so you can spin it off and place it with the other two nuts. Let the shock/spring go down

Carefully remove the shock/spring assembly from the car, becarefull not to chip the edge of your fender on removal.

Repeat with the other side

Installation is pretty much in reverse order, don't forget to install a new cottor pin. Pay attention to the not securing the sway bar end link, this is a frequent source for "help I did my suspension and it's now making noise post's".

REAR:

Pull wheel off.

Unbolt lower shock mount and set bolt aside

look at the lower suspension arm that the rear spring sit's in. Towards the inside of the car on this arm you will find a bolt and nut. Their you will see a thick washer, notice that this washer has a round dot stamped into it. Use a sharpy pen and mark this dot's location, you will align the suspension to this dot as the last thing you do on reassembly. Break nut free with about 3 turn's of your ratchet, but no more.

Use floor jack and apply a small amount of force on the suspension arm, right below the spring.

Remove nut and bolt on lower suspension arm, vary floor jack pressure as to allow you easier removeal of said bolt.

With bolt above removed carefully release the floor jack, with luck the suspension arm will sloly come off the rear hub and lower to the ground, allowing spring removal. If the suspension does not budge off the hub, keep the floor close to the lower suspension arm, ready to hold up the arm as the spring is still under a lot of pressure. Use whatever you need to to try and walk the lower arm off the hub.

Use a 12mm socket on a long extention and unbolt the upper shock mounts.

Reinstall in reverse order.

If the lower arm does not want to line up and let you reinstall the bolt close to the hub, take and tighten up the nut with the washer you made a sharpy mark next to till it's snug and retry getting the bolt in place.

 

trust me. It's easier than a honda accord. i changed the suspension on an accord many times also.

 

[QUOTE=Gsedan35]
REAR:

look at the lower suspension arm that the rear spring sit's in. Towards the inside of the car on this arm you will find a bolt and nut. Their you will see a thick washer, notice that this washer has a round dot stamped into it. Use a sharpy pen and mark this dot's location, you will align the suspension to this dot as the last thing you do on reassembly. Break nut free with about 3 turn's of your ratchet, but no more.





A quick question for Gsedan35
What happens if I did not line up the dot on the bolt? And what should I do to remedy the problem. I'm experiencing fair amount of tire feathering with original 04.5 350z spring. Thank you very much


Peter

 

Thanks for the tips everyone!

Thanks G35SEDAN for the HIGHLY DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS!

I will post before and after pics of the Eibach Prokit (6365.140) with Tokico D-Spec (DSP-7) combo compared to stock. I'm going to start on it after lunch!

 

[QUOTE=skix]The whole idea behind doing the trick with the washer and a sharpy pen to to keep your toe within reason on reinstall, to buy you time to get to a alignment shop and have the car properly alinged. Doesn't sound like you've had this done, definately get the car aligned asap. Watch the shop like a hawk and make certain they do not pull the car off the rack until your toe settings are even side to side front and rear. Also, don't let them set the rear camber unevenly either. To not trust them to do what's right, crack the whip if you have to.

 

Your welcome, really I do mean to do a new how to as the current one I did show's a process that is much harder for the front and not needed. Man I can't tell you how many time's I've done the install over the last 2 months on my car.

 

Thank you very much Gsedan35.

I'll get it aligned ASAP. Should I go to Infiniti dealer to get the alignment or any shop would be able to do it correctly.

Once again, thank you for your help, now I can relax a little.


Peter

 

So there's no need for a spring compressor then? And is there any danger of the spring uncompressing quickly and injuring/damaging/killing something? THat rear removal sounds like that could happen.

 

INSTALLED!!! Thanks again for the tips and "how to."

Wow I JUST got home from my parents' pad because I used their garage (one car garage, TINY but better than my apartment garage with like 40 cars). I started the install at about 3PM because the first couple of places I went to did not have a spring compressor available.

I took several breaks which included a bs fight with my girl, a few smoke breaks and lots of stretching the legs because I was working in a ONE CAR GARAGE! So I guess you could say it was about an 8-9 hour install. It really should've only took about 4 but since it was my first time on a Nissan/Infiniti I guess it was a learning experience.

The back was REALLY REALLY easy but I had to take the struts out AGAIN because I forgot to set them and screw on the cap. I had the wheels on already and everything then I tried to get to the struts from the trunk but I ended up cracking up my trunk lining and figured out that there was no way to reach them... like a honda.

The fronts TOOK forever because I was hand tightening the spring compressor. I put an old T-shirt and some rags over the caliper and rotor in order to put my weight on it as I wiggle the assembly out which was a BEE-HOTCH and a half! I was throwin temper trantrums and everything. Getting the Prokits on the D-specs required the compressor but getting the aftermarket assembly into place did not require the spring compressor. Just a lot of brute force.

Overall I am satisfied but I know the springs will settle at about 0.25 - 0.50 inches more so I am anxious. The rims look so much better now that the suspension is done.

In about a week or so I will get my alignment done. I believe I will need camber kits and if I do then I will get front and rear STILLEN kits. I keep hearing different things that I will NOT need one with a prokit but then I hear that I will because my shocks. I don't remember anything about struts lowering a car unless they have notches but my D-specs are the same size as OEM 05 6MT.

Anyways I am beat! I will post pics of the car soon. I tried to take pics of the before and the whole install but MY CHEAPASS Digcam kept clearing the memory card! I'm gonna borrow a friend's so at least I can post some "after" pics since everyone knows what a DG 05 6MT looks like... forged rims, bla bla...

 

Yes, watch out for the rear spring when you're taking it out

 

In the rear, use of the floor jack to contain spring tension and prevent suprises is critical.

Once the front shock/spring assembly is removed from the car, you much use a spring compressor to relieve the tension on the upper shock mount. Once you have compressed the spring enough so that it rattles free.

The top nut on the shock piston shaft on the upper shock mount is usually very tuff to break free. Use the following tools and process if you do not have air tools.




Use the tools in the following manner, the picture discribes things better then I can with words.