DIY: Add a sub to your Bose equipped G35 Coupe
#421
#422
#424
#426
#427
i'm going to apologize in advance for not reading all 29 pages... but I'm a total noob at this, and its extremely difficult to understand what you guys are saying LOL
anyways, i have the stock bose system, and i just want something that will give me some more bass. i want to keep the costs to a minimum, since im still in school. any help is appreciated!
anyways, i have the stock bose system, and i just want something that will give me some more bass. i want to keep the costs to a minimum, since im still in school. any help is appreciated!
#429
i'm going to apologize in advance for not reading all 29 pages... but I'm a total noob at this, and its extremely difficult to understand what you guys are saying LOL
anyways, i have the stock bose system, and i just want something that will give me some more bass. i want to keep the costs to a minimum, since im still in school. any help is appreciated!
anyways, i have the stock bose system, and i just want something that will give me some more bass. i want to keep the costs to a minimum, since im still in school. any help is appreciated!
Coupe.
https://g35driver.com/forums/audio-v...g35-coupe.html
https://g35driver.com/forums/audio-v...-stock-hu.html
And if you have a sedan...
https://g35driver.com/forums/audio-v...se-system.html
#432
as you approach the rear seat, you have to remove the bottom cushion by pulling straight up on each side. This allows you to continue to run your power wire to the trunk. Once you have the power wire running the way you want it, you can replace all the parts you had removed earlier.
The next step is to find the bose amp underneath the trunk coverings on the driver's side. There are two harnesses that are running to the amp. The one you want is the blue harness. Remove that and identify your input wires:
Head output rear right + blue
head output rear right - pink
head output rear left + teal
head output rear left - purple
remote wire light blue/ silver
you need to be able to convert 18 gauge wires to an rca jack to connect to the amp. One way was to get an rca jack with a twisted pair of wires that you can cut and then splice. Another option is to get the jl line conversion that i used (pricey - $25, but i couldn't wait for mail-order). Splice them with in-line splicers available at radio shack and tape it up with electrical tape. You also want to splice into the remote wire for the amp. Although the jl amps have audio sensing power-on capability, it is unreliable (i found out the hard way) and i recommend using a direct remote power-on line.
The next step is to find the bose amp underneath the trunk coverings on the driver's side. There are two harnesses that are running to the amp. The one you want is the blue harness. Remove that and identify your input wires:
Head output rear right + blue
head output rear right - pink
head output rear left + teal
head output rear left - purple
remote wire light blue/ silver
you need to be able to convert 18 gauge wires to an rca jack to connect to the amp. One way was to get an rca jack with a twisted pair of wires that you can cut and then splice. Another option is to get the jl line conversion that i used (pricey - $25, but i couldn't wait for mail-order). Splice them with in-line splicers available at radio shack and tape it up with electrical tape. You also want to splice into the remote wire for the amp. Although the jl amps have audio sensing power-on capability, it is unreliable (i found out the hard way) and i recommend using a direct remote power-on line.
#433
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Thanks for the quick response. I finished wiring the car but the box from my other car holding a 10" JLW6v2 and Alpine MRP-M450 were too big to fit in the trunk opening (should sit once inside but trunk opening is too slanted) . Anyone have recommendations for a box that should fit?
Also, when the wires from my factory deck to the Bose amp were spliced they were cut off from the harness (i.e. so it only goes from headunit to subwoofer amp for the remote turn on and the left/right audio signal) and soldered to the new wires going to the aftermarket deck. Is this alright? Or do I need to resolder them back to the wire in the harness (so it goes from Head Unit to subwoofer and Bose amp)?
I was told by the local auto electronic sources that T Taps should bot be used so that is why I had them cut and soldered but now I really regret it .
Also, when the wires from my factory deck to the Bose amp were spliced they were cut off from the harness (i.e. so it only goes from headunit to subwoofer amp for the remote turn on and the left/right audio signal) and soldered to the new wires going to the aftermarket deck. Is this alright? Or do I need to resolder them back to the wire in the harness (so it goes from Head Unit to subwoofer and Bose amp)?
I was told by the local auto electronic sources that T Taps should bot be used so that is why I had them cut and soldered but now I really regret it .
#434
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Winterpeg, MB
Posts: 751
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Thanks for the quick response. I finished wiring the car but the box from my other car holding a 10" JLW6v2 and Alpine MRP-M450 were too big to fit in the trunk opening (should sit once inside but trunk opening is too slanted) . Anyone have recommendations for a box that should fit?
Also, when the wires from my factory deck to the Bose amp were spliced they were cut off from the harness (i.e. so it only goes from headunit to subwoofer amp for the remote turn on and the left/right audio signal) and soldered to the new wires going to the aftermarket deck. Is this alright? Or do I need to resolder them back to the wire in the harness (so it goes from Head Unit to subwoofer and Bose amp)?
I was told by the local auto electronic sources that T Taps should bot be used so that is why I had them cut and soldered but now I really regret it .
Also, when the wires from my factory deck to the Bose amp were spliced they were cut off from the harness (i.e. so it only goes from headunit to subwoofer amp for the remote turn on and the left/right audio signal) and soldered to the new wires going to the aftermarket deck. Is this alright? Or do I need to resolder them back to the wire in the harness (so it goes from Head Unit to subwoofer and Bose amp)?
I was told by the local auto electronic sources that T Taps should bot be used so that is why I had them cut and soldered but now I really regret it .
Could it be possible for the OP to change that section to tapping the wires as opposed to splicing, I know it was discussed in this thread but it is pretty long now. Might prevent idiots like me from actually doing that...
Does anyone also know how to put the rear seats down again? Just more force?
#435