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DIY: Add a sub to your Bose equipped G35 Coupe

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Old Sep 12, 2009 | 05:18 AM
  #391  
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From: Chantilly
Originally Posted by JUM3
alright. I'll give this a try. to clarify. These are the same wires on the BLue Bose input connector right?
Exactly.
 
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Old Sep 14, 2009 | 03:07 AM
  #392  
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I followed this write-up to the T and it's working perfectly with no problems after 3 hours of diligent work. Ran into some mishap at the factory amp cuz my friend doing that end misread the instructions, so I went back and fixed it.

Currently running:

-4080 Driver's side enclosure
-Alpine V series MRP-M500 set at 60% gain
-Audiobahn AW1008T sub bumping 1 voice coilover
-Generic 8-gauge power cable I pulled from my Celica with a 60AMP inline fuse
-Monster Cable RCA cable
 
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Old Sep 15, 2009 | 11:22 PM
  #393  
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Originally Posted by paky786
Exactly.
Im a dumbass... turned out my amp wasn't getting power at all.. so after i hooked up the rca cables. nothing was working. only because of the remote wire, my amp had a led on - leading me to believe it was on.

So after giving up... I took it to Best Buy to call it quits, and the tech guy points out that Im missing a fuse for the Power kit. It was in the unopened bag I ignored during the install. Once i installed that. the set up worked.

Anyways, great write-up... I have no experience in wiring or audio equip, but the installation went well.

Running a test setup of a cheap amp and kickers....

Waiting for a custom box to be made to fit my JL 10W3 and Jl 500/1
 
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Old Oct 17, 2009 | 01:56 AM
  #394  
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I just joined, this is my first post. I also just picked up my new (to me) '06 Coupe, Premium Pkg, Sunroof, Black on Black. I moved up from an '03 Sentra SE-R that that was about to run into needing a transmission rebuild (1,000 or 20,000 miles.. I wasn't sure, but it was the perfect reason to get the car I've always wanted!)

I had a Pioneer HU in the SE-R with RCA pre-outs running back to my amps in the trunk. It's nice to find that the G has low-level inputs running back to an amp in the trunk!

I'm going to use a few pieces of my current equipment:
10" Pioneer Shallow Mount Sub
GM-5000T
(Have a GM-6150F that will go into storage for now)

I have the 10" mounted in a small, sealed box I built myself from 1/2" MDF. I never got around to carpeting it as my trunk was never all that attractive in the SE-R.

I had the amps mounted to a large piece of MDF secured to the trunk floor.

I'm going to carpet the box and sew on some large strips of velcro (the stiff side) onto the bottom. I'm not sure just yet what to do with the amp, as I don't really want to mount it to the back of the seat.. I'll explore the area under the floor, above the spare, see if there's space (I really have no idea..). I figure the velcro holds the pouch for the manual in place very well, it should handle the small sub box pretty well. I love that 4080 custom box, but I don't want to spend that kinda $$. And this should tuck away neatly and remove in a snap if I ever need the full trunk.

I spent $100 on the Sub new, just over $40 a piece for the amps used off of eBay, about $40 on all the wiring and maybe $10-$15 for the box material. It's worked very well for nearly 3 years now. I don't need to rattle the windows, which is why I went with the 10" shallow mount in a sealed box (only needs 3/4 cu ft sealed). I had the low-pass filter on the amp set to around 50 Hz and leave it there- clean, crisp punch but not the shear mass volume from a (much larger) band-pass enclosure.

I want to stay on my current budget (which is FREE since I own everything I need already), just making it MUCH more tidy and clean so it looks properly at home in the G.

Any thoughts? Comments or suggestions are welcome. I plan to leave the 6x9's in place and functional.. I'm just not sure if tapping the signal for the left-rear speaker (pre-amp) is going to degrade the signal in any way..

I'll get pics of anything unique along the way, as well as the final setup.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2009 | 02:00 AM
  #395  
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From: Chantilly
Hey, welcome to the thread and nice G! After a while you'll realize that stock crappy nissan speakers will baffle your subs. I'd be upgrading speakers fairly soon :P
 
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Old Oct 17, 2009 | 02:27 AM
  #396  
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Well, in my SE-R, I replaced the fronts with some 65W RMS Pioneer 4-ways, but left the stock tweeters and rear 6.5"'s hooked up. I had planned to upgrade the rears to some 2 ways with similar power capability, as the 6150F amp was well suited to put out that power to 4 channels.. but I never got around to it and never had the urge to spend more, as I couldn't stand to push the stereo much past about 5/6ths even with the windows down at 85 mph.. When I wasn't at that speed or had the windows closed, about 3/4ths was the highest I ever had it set. It also had a stock 8" open-air sub on the rear deck that I just un-hooked but never removed.

The frequencies I have the sub snapping on didn't sound any louder with your face in front of the speaker face (not really a cone..) than from the driver's seat with the trunk closed. I'm counting on pretty similar characteristics in the G. Plus, I want to avoid tearing into the G as much as possible. It looks so sharp, I don't want to do anything to take away from that.

The only thing I anticipate upgrading/modding anytime soon might be new tint (there are some imperfections in the front windows around the edges of the glass, and I don't think it's quite 35%, which is the limit in GA). The black interior can use all the help I can give it come next summer.. Plus, the black interior makes the tint looks so much darker (and more badass ) than the light interior in my SE-R. I'd love some 18's, but the dealer sprang for new rubber on the stock 17's, and rubber for 18's is at least half again more expensive for a set..
 
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Old Oct 25, 2009 | 07:12 PM
  #397  
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Impressive job and great detail write up!
 
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Old Oct 29, 2009 | 10:50 AM
  #398  
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I'm just about ready to get started on my build on my speaker system + CarPC. The only thing I'm really waiting on is I can't make the decision of going with 2 10" subs or just 1 12" sub. I currently have 2 10"s in my other car, a Honda Civic Sedan and they sound great, and originally was thinking of putting those in the G35. But would 1 12" sub perform possibly the same? I run the 10s with a mono-class D JL 1400w amp. I don't recall the model number.

What do you guys think?
 
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Old Oct 29, 2009 | 01:36 PM
  #399  
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I still need to do this :/
 
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Old Oct 31, 2009 | 09:22 PM
  #400  
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Originally Posted by Twinsen
I'm just about ready to get started on my build on my speaker system + CarPC. The only thing I'm really waiting on is I can't make the decision of going with 2 10" subs or just 1 12" sub. I currently have 2 10"s in my other car, a Honda Civic Sedan and they sound great, and originally was thinking of putting those in the G35. But would 1 12" sub perform possibly the same? I run the 10s with a mono-class D JL 1400w amp. I don't recall the model number.

What do you guys think?
I think 2 10's will give you more volume. A 12 potentially can hit a slightly lower freq than a 10, but it depends on the respective designs. So depending on the results you want, you may not want 10's.

As for the volume, remember this rule of thumb. To double the amount of sound, you can double the number of speakers as long as they all remain driven at the same wattage. Or, you can quadruple the power going to the initial number of speakers.

If you have a 10" sub running at 200 watts, adding a second 10" at 200 watts will give the same result as driving a single 10" at 800 watts.

I say keep the system that you know works
 
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Old Nov 15, 2009 | 03:35 AM
  #401  
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Hi there, I was wondering instead of splicing the gauge wire with the rca jack can we use the 7551 bose integration wire harness as a replacement method.
Has anyone try this and have same or great results?

With a amp. and sub. setup, would anyone suggest or recommend the jl audio clean sweep as part of the setup?
 
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Old Dec 21, 2009 | 09:06 AM
  #402  
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Just installed the jl 10w6v2, jl 500/1 amp, in a zenclosure type box with LOC and 4 gauge amp kit. After couple of hrs to install, everything is functioning fine but the bass does not seem to sound like what I have heard it should sound like with this setup. The bass is not tight and I am having trouble fine tuning the amp. I have looked at the amp manual and no luck. For those with similiar setup, what are your settings on the amp? Also, I am getting alot of rattling from the top rear deck and trunk so what would you suggest? Dynomat or another brand? I noticed that my sub has both jumper cables hooked up to run the sub in parallel. Should this be left in parallel? Also, I have the pos and neg wires from the sub running to the amp in one set. I noticed that the amp has 2 pos and 2 neg inputs. Doesnt matter which pos or neg input i have my wires going to and I should only have it hooked up to 2 input and not all 4 right? Thanks.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2009 | 04:49 PM
  #403  
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I have a question about the RCA cables. I am going to buy a set of monster rca cables, but can someone tell me if I need one rca cable or 2? and do they have to have male connectors on both ends? Sorry I am not very familiar with setting up a system. I appreciate if someone can help me out. Thank you
 
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Old Mar 11, 2010 | 09:53 PM
  #404  
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So... the time has come. I'll be doin' this in the coming week sometime. this is the set-up i'm goin' with.
Infinity REF1600a Mono amp
Clif Designs CDAW100 10" ( i know... not the greatest sub out there but it was free )
Monster Cable 4 Gauge Amp kit and some left over 12 gauge twisted speaker wire

I'll let you know how this goes and send up some pics.
Thanks a lot for the post OP!
 
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Old Mar 11, 2010 | 10:11 PM
  #405  
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I hope you didn't pay money for monster cable. It's no better than "regular" audio cable.
 
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