True, I hear you on that. Any recommendations for vehicle applications?

 

Will this do the trick?

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/produc..._term=555-2705

 

NVM, i see that is goes out to XLR outputs.... I havent found anything that converts Blanced RCA input to Unbalanced RCA output....

 

MTX-REQ or MTX-REQ5, the first is 3 channel the second is 5 channel. I had one it worked great, changed my amp out and it starting giving me alternator whine. I am sure I could have fixed that, but I just took it out and bought JL Audio amps. much simpler, sounds better.

 

I'm doing this today!
How did you get a 10 w 7 to fit in a 4080 though...

 

2.5 years later- Just to clarify, you're saying that using an amp that does NOT accept balanced signals will work when tapping the wires before the bose amp, as pictured in this DIY?

Thanks

 

It will "work" but you'll have a very low and noisy signal.

The wires before the amp are balanced. After the amp they are unbalanced. If you use an amp that accepts high-level inputs (most do) you can tap it after the amp, however, your sub will be subject to the horrible, bass-reducing-in-relation-to-increases-in-volume EQ in the Bose amp if you do so.

Either get an amp that accepts balanced inputs like JL Audio, or an adapter to convert to unbalanced, like the MTX REQ, otherwise it's not truly an upgrade.

 

Wrathernaut is right man, I banged my head against that for a long time.

 

Cool, that's what I'll do then. And what do most people end up doing with the EQ settings at the head unit? Fade towards front, lower bass, etc... And is there a consensus on whether or not to leave the stock 6x9's connected?

Thanks again!

 

You'll do what then? I gave four options there, one of them good, one ok, one bad, and one really bad.

If you add a sub, get rid of the 6x9s completely, remove them from the deck so that you have some open flow between the trunk and the cabin when the rear seats are up. Just be sure you get some CLD tiles (sounddeadenershowdown.com) and other sound deadening material to keep noise from passing through the trunk lid and wheel wells into the cabin.

Amount of fade/eq is entirely dependent on the rest of your system.

 

Sorry for being vague- I'm purchasing my setup from another member here for a great deal, and I believe the amp doesn't accept balanced inputs. So I'll be going the adapter route.

Thanks for all the helpful advice!

 

hi all, want to basically run the same setup as the OP but i am a bit new to audio stuff. i looked through the thread but could use some clarification.

i wanted to run with a line converter but am uncertain of what is the best route in doing so because it seems that the OP of that thread spliced wires to tap the signal from the stock bose amp. i've been trying to research the thread and other forums. would i be tapping the LOC after the bose amp or before? and if so which wires should i be tapping to get a signal to my aftermarket amp?

 

Yo got a problem. About 3yrs ago I did this DIY and was very successful. Things change for me when my car was stolen. My Amp and subs were stolen. Trying to do it again. Problem though, I hooked up the amp wire (the turn on wire) to the amp i have now it does not cut on. I sure the amp is fine. Is there an alternative to cutting the amp on???? Please help cause i dont wanna pay for an pro to look @ it. thats my last option. THX.

 

Use the cigarette lighter as the remote turn on wire. It's on when the car's on so it won't drain your battery.

 

Thanks for the answer but where would I start with that??? (cigarette Lighter alternative) Am i gonna have to get behind the dash panel? sorry for questions just wanna get this over wit. Thank you form responding though.