DIY: Add a sub to your Bose equipped G35 Coupe
Ok, thanks! So if youre using a LOC, you need to hook it up after the signal goes through the amp instead since obviously it will be converting the high signal. Although I still am not clear as to how the wires hook up though or if the polarity of the wires matters.Are most line output converters wires labeled as a +/- and simply hook to the +/- of the speaker wires?
If your amp has speaker-level inputs, you don't need the LOC.
As you approach the rear seat, you have to remove the bottom cushion by pulling straight up on each side. This allows you to continue to run your power wire to the trunk. Once you have the power wire running the way you want it, you can replace all the parts you had removed earlier.
The next step is to find the Bose amp underneath the trunk coverings on the driver's side. There are two harnesses that are running to the amp. The one you want is the blue harness. Remove that and identify your input wires:
Head Output Rear Right + Blue
Head Output Rear Right - Pink
Head Output Rear Left + Teal
Head Output Rear Left - Purple
Remote Wire Light Blue/ Silver
You need to be able to convert 18 gauge wires to an RCA jack to connect to the amp. One way was to get an RCA jack with a twisted pair of wires that you can cut and then splice. Another option is to get the JL line conversion that I used (pricey - $25, but I couldn't wait for mail-order). Splice them with in-line splicers available at Radio Shack and tape it up with electrical tape. You also want to splice into the Remote Wire for the amp. Although the JL amps have audio sensing power-on capability, it is unreliable (I found out the hard way) and I recommend using a direct remote power-on line.
The next step is to find the Bose amp underneath the trunk coverings on the driver's side. There are two harnesses that are running to the amp. The one you want is the blue harness. Remove that and identify your input wires:
Head Output Rear Right + Blue
Head Output Rear Right - Pink
Head Output Rear Left + Teal
Head Output Rear Left - Purple
Remote Wire Light Blue/ Silver
You need to be able to convert 18 gauge wires to an RCA jack to connect to the amp. One way was to get an RCA jack with a twisted pair of wires that you can cut and then splice. Another option is to get the JL line conversion that I used (pricey - $25, but I couldn't wait for mail-order). Splice them with in-line splicers available at Radio Shack and tape it up with electrical tape. You also want to splice into the Remote Wire for the amp. Although the JL amps have audio sensing power-on capability, it is unreliable (I found out the hard way) and I recommend using a direct remote power-on line.
Thanks in advance
As for the remote wire - from the post you quoted above:
As you approach the rear seat, you have to remove the bottom cushion by pulling straight up on each side. This allows you to continue to run your power wire to the trunk. Once you have the power wire running the way you want it, you can replace all the parts you had removed earlier.
The next step is to find the Bose amp underneath the trunk coverings on the driver's side. There are two harnesses that are running to the amp. The one you want is the blue harness. Remove that and identify your input wires:
Head Output Rear Right + Blue
Head Output Rear Right - Pink
Head Output Rear Left + Teal
Head Output Rear Left - Purple
Remote Wire Light Blue/ Silver
You need to be able to convert 18 gauge wires to an RCA jack to connect to the amp. One way was to get an RCA jack with a twisted pair of wires that you can cut and then splice. Another option is to get the JL line conversion that I used (pricey - $25, but I couldn't wait for mail-order). Splice them with in-line splicers available at Radio Shack and tape it up with electrical tape. You also want to splice into the Remote Wire for the amp. Although the JL amps have audio sensing power-on capability, it is unreliable (I found out the hard way) and I recommend using a direct remote power-on line.
The next step is to find the Bose amp underneath the trunk coverings on the driver's side. There are two harnesses that are running to the amp. The one you want is the blue harness. Remove that and identify your input wires:
Head Output Rear Right + Blue
Head Output Rear Right - Pink
Head Output Rear Left + Teal
Head Output Rear Left - Purple
Remote Wire Light Blue/ Silver
You need to be able to convert 18 gauge wires to an RCA jack to connect to the amp. One way was to get an RCA jack with a twisted pair of wires that you can cut and then splice. Another option is to get the JL line conversion that I used (pricey - $25, but I couldn't wait for mail-order). Splice them with in-line splicers available at Radio Shack and tape it up with electrical tape. You also want to splice into the Remote Wire for the amp. Although the JL amps have audio sensing power-on capability, it is unreliable (I found out the hard way) and I recommend using a direct remote power-on line.
If you're using the signal from the bose headunit before the bose amp, it's a clean signal, with no horrible equalization, however, it's a balanced signal. If your amp takes a balanced signal, that's the optimal way to do it. Anything after the bose amp has been screwed with and will be a worse signal to send to your amp, but it's unbalanced at that point, so pretty much any amp can take it.
If you're using the signal from the bose headunit before the bose amp, it's a clean signal, with no horrible equalization, however, it's a balanced signal. If your amp takes a balanced signal, that's the optimal way to do it. Anything after the bose amp has been screwed with and will be a worse signal to send to your amp, but it's unbalanced at that point, so pretty much any amp can take it.
An LOC splices in after the bose amp, but if you're using an amp that takes a balanced signal, you'll splice RCAs in before the bose amp.
I spliced my LOC in using the blue plug on the bose amp... it works fine, is this the right way or did i mess up?
Depends on the type of amp, really, but if it doesn't sound bad, then it's probably correct for the equipment you have.
The amp im using has unbalanced rcas... just want to make sure the car isnt going to start on fire or something haha. I can hear a little bit of unwanted noise with the volume real low, i dont know if grounding the LOC will help this at all or not though.








