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Wrathernaut's Double-Din Installation FAQ, Shopping and Resource List

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  #1696  
Old 03-19-2015, 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by G35fromPA
Is there a part number or link to a part for the green momentary push button switch used for the DCC button? Was thinking it may be easier to get one separately and solder it on to the JDM AC controller instead of de-soldering from the other board first.
I think I found the switches. I just got a JDM kit and measured the switches and they are
5mm long x 3mm wide x 2.5mm high

I think these are the right switches: http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC12V-0-2A-5...-/321195611598
 
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  #1697  
Old 03-20-2015, 08:29 AM
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1: Check your wiring or if your HU is supported. Mine was just a dimmer switch from out of the pioneer loom.
2: don't cheap out... Stock mic in the car blows!!!! It's like $20 for a quality Sony 3.5mm mic made for car applications. Trust me, I tried it lol.
My wiring is fine and my head unit supports dimming feature. The wiring is different in the 06-07's... which it says somewhere in this thread.

I don't want an aftermarket mic in my car hanging out in my car somewhere when Nissan has put one in already. I just want to retain the factory mic, my mic works perfectly just the way it is
 
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  #1698  
Old 03-22-2015, 03:51 PM
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is there anyway to fit a Metra 95-7605A into 06 that has stock nav? I really don't want to spend 400 dollars on just a trim.
 
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  #1699  
Old 03-23-2015, 03:08 AM
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First I have to say, this post is filled with useful information. I was able to replace my head unit with an aftermarket double din (pioneer).

Now I have a question, I used Metra Axxess ASWC for the steering wheel control as per suggestion, and sometime I have issue with volume down and seek down button with the unit. (the volume down would not work, but if you click volume up, seek up or bluetooth button, everything else work). I did a quick search and some people recommend update the version within the device (which I did), and now I notice that the volume down is permanently non-working. Any idea on how to fix it?

Many thanks,
J
 
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  #1700  
Old 03-23-2015, 09:38 AM
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Check your connections.
 
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  #1701  
Old 03-23-2015, 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by mtimber518
First off Wrathernaut you are THE MAN!!! This thread has been exponential helpful in me getting this far in my head unit install. However, I have run into a few issues that seem to have been mentioned in this thread but never really solved (unless I missed them somewhere in the 113 pages and if so I apologize) but my first issue is with getting the dimmer function to work on my head unit for my 2007 coupe. It was addressed previously to tap into the red/blue wire somewhere but was never really stated where to do so in an 07 coupe... Could I just tap into the signal at the dimmer switch? there should only be a signal being sent through that switch when the lights go on correct? and it really shouldn't matter the brightness I set my dash panel at either since all the head unit does is look for a signal "ON" and then dims the display correct? Or is there a better place to tap into that signal?

Secondly I would really like to retain the functionality of the factory mic instead of having to run a cheesy aftermarket one and find a place to attach it. Any Idea where the easiest place to splice into the factory mic is? And any idea on a wiring diagram for the mic? This would be something I would like to know before I start really tearing off trim pieces and cutting wires, so any insight is GREATLY appreciated.

Thank you!!
Sorry for any delay, been off doing a bit of training out in the woods, Army-style

There's a dimmer signal that can be tapped at the climate control display, same color as the one for the radios that have it.

The factory mic wire has been discussed before, best place to tap is at the top of the driver's side a-pillar. It's red and black wires, you may need to trace the wires from the mic location - there doesn't appear to be a diagram showing the path in the manual, and I don't have a reference vehicle to check.
 
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  #1702  
Old 04-06-2015, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Wrathernaut
In vehicles equipped with factory bluetooth, the wires for the steering wheel controls go THROUGH the bluetooth adapter before they go to the radio. If you leave the bluetooth adapter connected, it will continue to intercept the steering wheel control inputs just like it always did. To allow the steering wheel control inputs to reach an aftermarket radio, those wires must be routed around the factory bluetooth adapter. The wiring modification is quite simple. Going into the bluetooth adapter harness, there are three pairs of identically colored red, green, and yellow wires. Cut them and solder each pair together.



Once you've done that, follow the programming instructions for your steering wheel control adapter and you'll be set.
So... I had my steering wheel controls working (besides the phone controls) and then did the above process and now none of my steering wheel controls work and after numerous times trying to reprogram the Axcess module still no luck. What's up with that?
 
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  #1703  
Old 04-06-2015, 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by mtimber518
So... I had my steering wheel controls working (besides the phone controls) and then did the above process and now none of my steering wheel controls work and after numerous times trying to reprogram the Axcess module still no luck. What's up with that?
Did you solder or crimp?
 
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  #1704  
Old 04-06-2015, 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Wrathernaut
Did you solder or crimp?
Crimp in this case. I generally like to crimp if I'm not positive it's going to work because it's more easily reversible.
 
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  #1705  
Old 04-07-2015, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by mtimber518
Crimp in this case. I generally like to crimp if I'm not positive it's going to work because it's more easily reversible.
Two seconds with a (pre-heated) soldering gun is more reversible. Crimps are more likely to break strands of the wire as you're removing it.

Try it soldered for a more reliable connection - any sort of poor connection can alter the resistance enough that steering wheel adapter can't tell what button is being pressed reliably.

Also, make sure your connection to ground is still solid, it may have come loose.
 
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  #1706  
Old 04-07-2015, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Wrathernaut
Two seconds with a (pre-heated) soldering gun is more reversible. Crimps are more likely to break strands of the wire as you're removing it.

Try it soldered for a more reliable connection - any sort of poor connection can alter the resistance enough that steering wheel adapter can't tell what button is being pressed reliably.

Also, make sure your connection to ground is still solid, it may have come loose.
OK I'll solder them and give it a shot.

I'm pretty sure it's not a ground issue because that was the first thing I tried... I just ran a wire to the battery negative terminal and had the same result.

If soldering doesn't work I'll probably just try to reverse the connections back to stock (which will suck because of the same color wires... I should have cut them at different lengths in hindsight) and see if I can get the rest of the controls working again.

Thank you Wrathernaut
 
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  #1707  
Old 04-07-2015, 01:01 PM
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Thanks Wrathernaut for all this awesome info. I am gathering the materials to install a Pioneer AVH-4100 NEX head unit in the coming weeks.

Couple of questions:
- For the common grounded wires for the main harness and steering control harness, is there not an existing ground wire in the factory radio harness that can be used? If not, what's the best location to ground behind the dash?
- Does anyone have a spare "DUAL" button from their old dash kit they would be willing to spare or sell me?
 
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  #1708  
Old 04-07-2015, 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by G35fromPA
Thanks Wrathernaut for all this awesome info. I am gathering the materials to install a Pioneer AVH-4100 NEX head unit in the coming weeks.

Couple of questions:
- For the common grounded wires for the main harness and steering control harness, is there not an existing ground wire in the factory radio harness that can be used? If not, what's the best location to ground behind the dash?
- Does anyone have a spare "DUAL" button from their old dash kit they would be willing to spare or sell me?
The entire metal frame the factory radio bracket sits in is grounded, so feel free to drill a new grounding point, otherwise, this location is fine, just be sure it doesn't stick up so high that it blocks putting the radio back in.

 
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  #1709  
Old 04-07-2015, 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Wrathernaut
The entire metal frame the factory radio bracket sits in is grounded, so feel free to drill a new grounding point, otherwise, this location is fine, just be sure it doesn't stick up so high that it blocks putting the radio back in.

Thanks. Where is that location? Do you mean the DIN cage itself or is that the frame behind the dash trim?
 
Last edited by G35fromPA; 04-07-2015 at 03:18 PM.
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  #1710  
Old 04-07-2015, 11:25 PM
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Originally Posted by G35fromPA
Thanks. Where is that location? Do you mean the DIN cage itself or is that the frame behind the dash trim?
That's at the bottom of the radio opening.

Both, really. But I'd stick with the frame behind the dash trim.
 
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