OK, thanks.

Any spare climate buttons lying around? :-)

 

Nope, but they're easy to swap.

 

I need to review that vid you made of the button removal again...

 

Couple more install questions:
- If the cage covers up the right mounting holes on the radio when you're test mounting, how do you mark the DIN cage if you have to drill new holes?
- What's the best way to strip out a section of insulation on the M39 harness wiring? I've never stripped the middle of a wire before and not really sure how to do it.

 

Put the DDin in the cage with masking tape along the side. Poke holes in the tape where the mounting screw holes are. Slide the radio in to the desired depth and use a marker to mark through the holes in the cage onto the tape. Remove the radio, take the tape off, line up the marker spots with the cage holes, and use the holes you punched in the tape to mark where to drill the radio cage.

Stripping a section in the middle - just cut the wire and solder to it, there's enough slack to reconnect it later if you have to.

 

Ah, makes sense. Thanks for the tips.

 

Is this my M39 Harness? It doesn't seem to have all the wires that the one in your FAQ pic does, but I assume that's just because the others in your pic are maybe for factory bluetooth, etc. and mine is an 04 without factory bluteooth.

None of the other harnesses look at all like it and I've already eliminated the two that go to the PAC ROEM, so there's only one other it could be and it doesn't match up at all to your pic.

EDIT: This was the right harness. Hooked it up and the AWSC recognized the car and programmed itself. Everything is working perfectly. Now I just have to run the mic wire (the old Parrot mic that was already there didn't work with the Pioneer HU) and get everything back in the dash. Will post some pics in the other thread as soon as I get a chance.

 

Hey Wrathernaut I ordered a Swi-ps and got a swi-rc instead. My question is that it tells me to use the white wire from the package to the green wire on the harness with a 150 ohm resistor and connect the red to white as well. The white wire comes split into 3 so it's white , white/black with a 560 ohm resistor inline and white/red with a 150 ohm resistor inline. So do I just hook up the green to the white red and not add a resistor since it already has one ? Funny thing is that the instructions it comes with doesn't mention the different white wires but the online instructions breaks it down. Please help

 

From the SWI-RC vehicle application guide: http://www.pac-audio.com/swi/pdf/swi-rc_appguide.pdf

 

so i feel like this is where my answer lies but i got the Sosche OEA-4 wire harness and can't seem to make it work... ><;;;

 

The scosce OEA-4 is a line output converter, not a signal converter like the ROEM-NIS2 uses, so you're not going to be sending the bose amplifier the signal it wants. The ROEM-NIS2 has by far the best success rate of any adapter for our cars, which is why it's the only recommended adapter if you're keeping the bose amplifier.

 

thanks! i'll order the part tonight!

 

Hey Wrathernaut, have you heard anything about this unit?

Looks very customizable and can connect to wifi.

 

If you're dead-set on getting one, you can find the same thing on lightinthebox.com for less, although shipping may take longer. Quality control on all of these cheap chinese android headunits is pretty poor, so hope you get a good one the first try. Those images in the listing are probably the best instructions you're going to get too. They're usually running leftover processors from low-end tablets, which is generally adequate for basic functions, but that's about it. Don't expect any sort of support on it either.

 

So Wrathernaut... I have searched a bit for this answer... Come up with nothing so far. Does the Double din install affect the heater control? I am doing quite a bit of work on the car, and I have control of the fan and modes, but no control so fat of my heater anymore... Now there are A LOT of things unhooked and the double din is not back inside the car. Ideas?