Wrathernaut's Double-Din Installation FAQ, Shopping and Resource List
Joined: Nov 2008
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From: Pennsylvania

I can attest to that^
Not my first install, but first install that was more than just a simple swap. Study his lists and FAQs and they should answer all your questions.
Also, wrather has a posted video on how to modify the metra kit to fit the nav. Furthermore, our member here Shawno has a metra kit for sale for a very good price. Just look in our classifieds.
Not my first install, but first install that was more than just a simple swap. Study his lists and FAQs and they should answer all your questions.
Also, wrather has a posted video on how to modify the metra kit to fit the nav. Furthermore, our member here Shawno has a metra kit for sale for a very good price. Just look in our classifieds.
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 7,993
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From: Pennsylvania

The factory amp is still needed to run the cabin speakers, but you'll want to disconnect the factory sub.
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 7,993
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From: Pennsylvania

Either option is fine, but if you're running new RCAs, you might as well run the one extra wire alongside it.
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 7,993
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From: Pennsylvania

If you want to retain the bose amp powering anything, you need to use the ROEM-NIS2. 70-7550 works if you are using aftermarket amp(s) to power everything or never had the bose at all.
I planned on using an aftermarket amp and sub. You said I needed to run rca's to the back from the stereo. Doesn't that eliminate the need for the bose amp and sub?
Joined: Nov 2008
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From: Pennsylvania

If you run an aftermarket amp for the front speakers, yes. If not, no. The bose amp runs all the speakers + sub, not just the sub.
So, now I need a 4-channel amp, then what would I do with it? Haha
Joined: Nov 2008
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From: Pennsylvania

Alright, so I have the 70-7551 without the PAC and you told me I would need to replace the bose amp with a 4-channel amp and run wires to the front speakers and reground the amp.(?) I'm really not experienced with amps, but could go into a little more detail about that? I think that's the route I wanna take. The stereo shop that originally wired it put in the 7551 against my wishes (I couldn't convince them that you knew what you were talking about more than them).
So, now I need a 4-channel amp, then what would I do with it? Haha
So, now I need a 4-channel amp, then what would I do with it? Haha
They probably have the RCA connectors from the 70-7551 connected to the back of the new radio, in which case, you'll be able to use the input signal wires going into the bose amplifier to go into your aftermarket amplifier. On some amplifiers when putting in the amp in a coupe, you can get away without extending the wires, depending on where the input terminals are, but you're probably going to be better off buying a couple twisted pair RCA cables, cutting them in half, and connecting them to the input signal wires. Then you plug those into the new amplifier, and connect (extend if necessary) the output signal wires to your new amp. You'll need to extend the amplifier power signal wire to the new amp too. Run new power/ground with an amplifier wiring kit.
You really needed a new shop if they wouldn't listen to you or even check the site.
They probably have the RCA connectors from the 70-7551 connected to the back of the new radio, in which case, you'll be able to use the input signal wires going into the bose amplifier to go into your aftermarket amplifier. On some amplifiers when putting in the amp in a coupe, you can get away without extending the wires, depending on where the input terminals are, but you're probably going to be better off buying a couple twisted pair RCA cables, cutting them in half, and connecting them to the input signal wires. Then you plug those into the new amplifier, and connect (extend if necessary) the output signal wires to your new amp. You'll need to extend the amplifier power signal wire to the new amp too. Run new power/ground with an amplifier wiring kit.
They probably have the RCA connectors from the 70-7551 connected to the back of the new radio, in which case, you'll be able to use the input signal wires going into the bose amplifier to go into your aftermarket amplifier. On some amplifiers when putting in the amp in a coupe, you can get away without extending the wires, depending on where the input terminals are, but you're probably going to be better off buying a couple twisted pair RCA cables, cutting them in half, and connecting them to the input signal wires. Then you plug those into the new amplifier, and connect (extend if necessary) the output signal wires to your new amp. You'll need to extend the amplifier power signal wire to the new amp too. Run new power/ground with an amplifier wiring kit.
I have a question I have been through about 50 pages and haven't seen it addressed... but my head unit is a pyle pldn74bti and it came with a harness with everything to fit the metra 75-7550 plus extras like key 1 key 2 for the swc's (first question is do i need the metra axxess aswc?). after i hook the OE harness in my car to my metra i have another harness for the ac then an extra left over. does that just get taped off and secured or does it get used for something else?
I think I need to just buy an ASWC-1 to do a separate install video for that item. They weren't around when I did my installs.
What wiring were you confused on? There's the two signal wires, which go from the M39 harness to the wires on the ASWC. There's the power wire for the ASWC, which connects to the same switched power wire that the headunit uses. The ground for the ASWC is connected to the yellow M39 harness wire and grounded to the vehicle. Then, you plug the 3.5mm connector to the back of the radio. That's it.
You've got to be more descriptive on the amp error. Mostly because you bought the 70-7551, a part I haven't recommended to anyone in years, so I would have to assume that you've got an aftermarket amplifier you're trying to use. If that assumption is wrong and you're trying to use it with the factory bose amplifier, you're going to encounter the issues of low/noisy audio that made me recommend the ROEM-NIS2 in any situation where you're keeping the bose amplifier. If you're using the 70-7551 and don't have the bose system OR an aftermarket amplifier, you're sending a very low power signal to try and power speakers, which doesn't really work.
What wiring were you confused on? There's the two signal wires, which go from the M39 harness to the wires on the ASWC. There's the power wire for the ASWC, which connects to the same switched power wire that the headunit uses. The ground for the ASWC is connected to the yellow M39 harness wire and grounded to the vehicle. Then, you plug the 3.5mm connector to the back of the radio. That's it.
You've got to be more descriptive on the amp error. Mostly because you bought the 70-7551, a part I haven't recommended to anyone in years, so I would have to assume that you've got an aftermarket amplifier you're trying to use. If that assumption is wrong and you're trying to use it with the factory bose amplifier, you're going to encounter the issues of low/noisy audio that made me recommend the ROEM-NIS2 in any situation where you're keeping the bose amplifier. If you're using the 70-7551 and don't have the bose system OR an aftermarket amplifier, you're sending a very low power signal to try and power speakers, which doesn't really work.
I seen this and had a question you said use the 3.5mm connector on the ASWC and plug it into the radio... what do i do if my radio doesn't a place for that?
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 7,993
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From: Pennsylvania

I have a question I have been through about 50 pages and haven't seen it addressed... but my head unit is a pyle pldn74bti and it came with a harness with everything to fit the metra 75-7550 plus extras like key 1 key 2 for the swc's (first question is do i need the metra axxess aswc?). after i hook the OE harness in my car to my metra i have another harness for the ac then an extra left over. does that just get taped off and secured or does it get used for something else?
https://g35driver.com/forums/audio-v...-controls.html
But I'm pretty sure adding the resistors would make it work.








