Auto

 

Yep, the power button isn't anything special - you just need to program it to do what you want. This is how I have mine set up. I just wish the radio would pause whenever possible instead of mute/attenuate, but that's the radio's fault, not the steering wheel interface.

 

hello, I know this has been answered a million times. After searching all the threads I could find, I can't seem to find the final answer. So please help me. I have car stereo knowledge and can and do install my own equipment.

I started my 2003 G35 the other day and a horrible sound came from the left rear speaker area. When you fade front to back, you still hear loud static. When you turn the volume all the way down you still hear it. I'm thinking blown/shorted rear channel(s) in the amp.

I would like to replace the Bose amp with a aftermarket. I would use the factory wire harness. I understand about balanced and unbalanced.
Is there a line converter to do this? I think it's the PAC OEM-1. This should get me to RCA from the HU to plug into the new AMP.
So the total package plug and play is the AOEM-NIS2 this includes all connectors that would go from the HU and to the AMP. Is this the correct converter?

 

The PAC OEM-1 will convert the balanced signal to unbalanced, but you'll need to devise your own way to connect it to the factory radio. Since you say you're knowledgeable about installs, I'd recommend installing it in the trunk essentially replacing the Bose amp with the OEM-1. That way, all your factory wiring from the radio to the trunk remains unmodified. Just use the power that originally powered the bose amp to power the OEM-1, and solder up the speaker signal wires to go into the OEM-1. From the OEM-1, just run your short speaker signal wires to the new amp, and from the new amp, back through the factory speaker wiring.

 

 

I know your question was directed at Wrathernaut, but yes his comment was in regards to the aswc-1

 

Bose, in my opinion is the biggest piece of junk on the planet. The little IC chip amp is nothing less than a crime. Anyway, that's the plan, I just wanted to make sure that would be the way to go on this silly car. I'm going to tap into the factory wire at the plug in the trunk. I've never dealt with these "line converters" before. There is way too much bad info or people just calling something by a different name that confuses the process.

So just to be clear to other people installing these converters, the "A" and "R" perform very different functions.

PAC AOEM-NIS2 is a package that includes all needed connectors to REPLACE the factory Bose AMP when keeping the factory HU

PAC ROEM-NIS2 is a package that includes all needed connectors to REPLACE the factory Bose HU and keep the factory AMP

If you install a new HU and a new AMP, you don't need any of this junk, but you will need the dash kit

 

I never even looked to see if something like the AOEM-NIS2 existed. Nobody has reported on using one. Looking at the manual, it looks like it is for adding another amplifier, not necessarily replacing the bose amp, but will work for keeping or replacing the bose amp. It would be great if it plugged into the harnesses at the bose amplifier, instead of at the radio.

 

Does anyone recognize this Metra Kit and if it would be compatible with my 04 G35 Sedan w/Bose Premium package (no NAV)? I'm new to the forums and bought my G. Thanks!

https://vancouver.craigslist.ca/pml/...677405023.html

 

 

That fits the 05-07 coupes not 03-04. No big deal, you really don't want a Metra faceplate. If you can't pony up the cash for a proper JDM piece, get the Scosche. It looks a lot better than the Metra and won't break the bank.

 

I have a 2004 g35x with bose and navigation, i just installed a stereo and subs but i cannot seem to get the steering wheel control to work.
I'm using:
PAC ROEM
Metra Axxess ASWC1
Pioneer MVH-200EX
Metra Kit
I got the kit modified to fit, got the stereo in, got the amp and subwoofers installed, and everything sounds amazing except i cant get the steering wheel control to work. The metra axxess has ground and powering working fine because it turns
on and will flash, but none of my steering wheel controls will even get it to start programming. I've tried holding volume button down but can't get it to flash or change, and have tried holding the reset button down before i turn it on to get it to change versions but nothing seems to work. I'm using the gray/red and white/green wire from the axxess going into the black/gray wire and gray wire which lead to the red and green wire on the harness. I'm not even really sure if it is the right harness, am i doing something wrong? It seems to be the only harness with the yellow, green, and red wires on it.

 

That's the wrong harness, that's the harness with the main power, which is why that yellow wire is 2x bigger than the rest. You need the M39 harness.
It's the one in the background on the left, and may have more than those four wires, depending on if you have satellite or GPS.

 

Air conditioning/heat issues on the stock stereo are common right? I just went back from the Nissan DDin finisher to my OEM set up and my air keeps cycling between hot and cold when it's set to 90*F (max).

Just had the cooling system burped, and there was definitely air in the system. It has been fixed and still cycles air .

I just want warm air.

--------------Edit----------------
Just bad timing, ended up with a hose with a leak in it.