i bought my G used from a private seller, and when i found out about the recall, i asked my dealer and he said they were already replaced under the recall a couple years ago. the dealer i go to is known for being honest (when i told them my brakes and tires probably needed to be replaced, basically giving them an open opportunity to be dishonest and tell me they did need to be replaced, they told me that they were good and wouldnt need to be replaced for a little while), so i dont think they were trying to get out of doing warranty work. maybe ill bring up the "flairing" them next time i go in before my warranty is up.

 

You do need to bake to get the projector out.

 

Ivory,

I think I'm going to go back into my headlights this weekend and do it right. I never took the projector itself apart, I just replaced the lens with a TSX one and bent 1st cutoff down by sticking my finger in there. I had a decent sharp cutoff and decent color; however, I just noticed that the color doesn't span across the whole cutoff and it's not as sharp as the pictures you have posted.

Question...When you bend the shield to more of a semicircle, you also say to push it slight forward. Do you mean forwards towards the lens or the bulb? Also, what effect does it have as far as color...shield being closer or further away from bulb or lens?

 

thats not what it seemed like from your OP....

 

Missed the first bit

"To get to the projectors, please refer to the DIY by PeteNJ
DIY: Projector Retrofit"

 

damn...makes it less likely ill do this now...oh well

the pics in that thread are broken

 

Where the shield needs to be pushed and how much depends on exactly where the focal point is and what lens you use.

Basically Lens----> ( | o <--- (light bulb) Middle is the shield, when you push or pull on the shield it gets either closer or farther away from the lens or the bulb. This focuses the cutoff, think of it like twisting the focus on a SLR camera. The SEMI circle part is that stock shield viewing from the top looks like ( you want it to be more like C. The reason being the sides of the shield when you push or pull it will flair up or down and distort the shield. In the very least this can be a trial and error, you do have to hook up a power supply to the ballast somehow to show the outcome during testing. Waiting till you put everything back together to find out will be too much PITA to open again.

 

Thats unfortunate. Follow these steps and they are easy and safe.

Preheat oven to 350 F

TURN OVEN OFF.

Place headlight in the oven for 10 minutes.

Take light out (wear mittens)

Unscrew 3 screws in the back, proceed carefully and quickly to pry apart the headlight starting from the very top edge. A tough dull steak knife helps.

To put it back together:

Preheat oven to 350F

Turn Oven off!

Place the headlight and its cover tentatively together, place in the oven

Wait 10 minutes.

Take the headlight out and carefully push the two halves together.

Screw the 3 screws in the back AFTER the plastic cools, else you will ruin the tap on the plastic and it wont screw tight.

 

i should mention for good measure you should buy some rubber butyl to add some seals around the headlight. This isn't necessary if you are only opening the headlight once.

 

How have you been hooking it up to an external power source such as a computer power supply? Worse comes to worst, I guess I'll just have to keep going back to the car to test.

 

Yes a computer power supply with at least 500watts should be good.

 

+1 i just soldered some alligator clip to my comp power supply, just jump the green wire to any black wire on the main 20 pin harness plug and your set.

 

^
I can't remember what the plug to the ballast exactly looks like, but modification is necessary to hook it up to a computer power supply?

EDIT:
Scratch that...I just found a DIY on a civic forum haha.

 

^Yeah you dont have to there is a + and - on the ballast

 

SO what would happen if i cut the glare gaurd only and didnt do the other stuff?