a little better output if done correctly, sharper cutoff, color without having to use high kelvin bulbs which have lower output, flicker. Pretty much all positive with no negatives.

 

Nice write up, will be doing this in the upcomming weeks!

 

Have you tired this with 6000k bulbs? I would assume the flicker wouldnt be as colorful as the stock as the higher K would blen in more with the flicker...??

 

Hey Ivory, how much to do this mod if I send you the lights. Not confident enough to do it on my own, and feel like I would put my car out of commission for a month if I try. LMK

 

I don't think he is doing them anymore.

I tried it with the 6000k lens, looks pretty good still.

 

AgentF - I don't really have time to do the mod for you, but I can give you some pointers if you need. I've done a couple and it's really not that difficult. I think the scariest part for people who haven't done the mod is probably opening up the headlights. The actual mod is straightforward (except for playing with the shield).

 

changing kelvin of the bulb only change the overall output, it does nothing for the cutoff and you most likely have no "flicker" A flicker would comprise of any number of colors of the spectrum instead of just 1. Like what you see here just above the cutoff is what colors you would see in a flicker while remaining light is still stock.

 

subscribing. Bump to!

 

To confirm, in order to get solid color along the length of the entire cutoff;

it is :required: to cut the spacer so that it sits higher and thus places the cutoff shield at a higher location

or it can be achieved just by careful manipulation of the cutoff shield's height bend and semicircle shaping?

Thanks.

(Right now, when I drop in my 2.5" clear lense, I get a sharp cutoff, but only color around the middle hump area. Also, the colored area is slightly rotationally off from the rest of the main cutoff line, what's up with that?)

 

oh and to ask one more thing,

what tool do you use to shape the cutoff shield? it seems so flimsy that I thought I could just slightly bend it (since I read that only slight adjustments should be made at a time), but I am having great trouble actually changing its shape. It seems to love reverting to it's original shape, no matter how hard I try to push the front shield down...

Like, i pushed the entire assembly down so that it was touching the solenoid, then kept pushing on the front part of the cutoff shield quite hard, and when i let go, it just pops back up and the cutoff shield place doesn't appear to have changed... :/

 

If you have not modified the spacer, you won't get color in all of the cutoff. Also pushing the front shield down means the front should be out of the way of the main shield. From what you are describing, seems like you are pushing both shields down, which you shouldn't do.

 

Just cut the front shield off rather than pushing it down. This will help prevent bowing of the cutoff

 

what he said ^

 

By modifying the spacer so that it sits higher, this allows the cutoff shield to raise higher. I'm guessing that this then means that the cutoff becomes closer to the car, and thus when aiming the projectors you would just aim them higher than had you not modified the spacer. You're losing some light output by doing this though, right?

 

You only need to raise it ~1mm. Output is not significantly affected. Do not go off of the spacer height to determine aiming. Mount them up and aim then afterward to DOT specs