yeah, i think my problem is that when i was making adjustments to the shield for sharpness, i did it with the projector relatively close to the wall. so it was in focus closer up, but not as much so farther away

 

your cutoffs are pretty messed up, you need to play with the shield some more so your cutoff is straight, they bow down and flare all over the place

 

it's difficult to get the shield perfect, since it is so flimsy, but i'm definitely going to do my best to get the cutoff right. it just sucks having to take my headlights apart again. thanks for the feedback redlude & g7x5

 

what i did was hooked it up to a battery while i was testing that way i could
play with the shield then test it out, play with it again until i got it the way i
wanted, did it in my garage and tested it against a wall that was about 25
away for sharpness. if just takes patience, hell i haven't even finished mine yet
still working on ccfl and some other features.

 

Yep, just takes alot of time to get them to look good. I use an old computer power supply to do my testing, and it takes a good 4-5 hours each to fine tune them and get them aimed correctly

 

what do you do to make the difference between these two pics?
the first one just gets the blue color near the center and the second pic has a level blue line that spans the entire length on the light. My cutoff looks like the first pic but I want it to look like the second. I followed all the steps except drilling out the glare guard. Will that make the difference?

 

did you modify the metal guide piece to sit higher?

If so, try aiming the light at a farther distance, it's hard to judge when up so close.

 

will these worK?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Parts...=p4506.c0.m245

 

They could but it requires a lot more work.

We sell lenses that would work for your application.

we also have premodified projectors for $100 that you can exchange with your stock projectors.

 

anyone wanna help me do mine?

 

Just send it to Paul, he will take care of you and the price is right!

 

I understand cutting the top part is necessary for more light output.

I've read a few people adding spacers between their FX projectors and lenses and getting similar effects. Any of you guys know if that is possibble with our projectors instead of bending the shield back and forth?

 

You will need a clear lens at the minimum. Spacing doesn't always work depending on which clear lens you purchase, as a lot of them actually need the shield closer to the lens, and not further away. Also, cutting the top part doesn't necessarily yield better output, as I learned first hand. Part of the problem is that the projector sits so far back in the headlight, that the foreground limiter that is trimmed off gets blocked by the headlight bezel anyways, so more light is not projected onto the foreground. If I had to do it again, I would just leave it alone and not trim the foreground limiter

 

Thanks for the info..., I got a few lenses to try out (e30 & tsx). I wanted to see if anyone has tried the "spacer only" mod to make it much easier. It appears the fx projectors dont have the top "foreground limiter " as we do (it may depend on the different year models). I will leave mine on and try it out.

 

technical stuff. I'm still trying to figure out what the point of this mod actually is. I don't mean that is a smart way either. I mean, I don't really care what the light looks like when it hits a wall, or if I have a little blue line following my cutoff, I want functionality. Is this something that makes a huge difference when driving at night? It's a lot of work and it sounds like it takes many hours so I'm just trying to understand what the outcome is for all the work. Is it just a little brighter and a little sharper?