I use them as projector turnsignals

 

Ivory, how'd you get the output line so flat? Mine seems to do this parabola thing where it tapers off at the edges. Did yours ever do this and if so, what did you do to overcome this

 

I discussed this in some pages before. but basically you pushed the shield too much towards the bowl. You can try combining spacing the lens outwards with bending the shield, therefore the shield is not pushed back so far and the two curving sides begin to obstruct the path of the light.

You can also try to bend the shield in a more semi circle shape like I described in the DIY

 

i was thinking about just changing the lens on my stock projectors. i dont really want to do the color mod. what would be the differences in light output from just changing the lens?
thanks
johnny

 

Depending on the lense used, the focal point will be off and you will have a very weird cutoff

 

i ran into the problem with the metal guide piece. i don't have the tools to cut it like on the first page of the diy. i'm thinking of using washers under the metal guide to allow the shield to be up higher. do you think this will work?

also, my first attempt was removing the metal guide altogether... and the vibration was just too much. the shield became flimsy and made the light flicker even at idle. i drove around a little like that, and while it is kind of a cool effect (consistently flickering), it just does not work.

 

just buy a dremel, they cost less than $50

 

dremel is your friend. and the reinforced cutting wheel, the EZ lock ones really do cut much better than the traditional ones.

 

just picked up a dremel... it's about time i got one anyway

 

What is the purpose of the split level on the sheild so it makes the light give a Z shape on the top of the light beam?

 

when it's projected at a distance, the beam on your lane is higher than than the opposing lane, this is for glare reasons.

 

brilliant!

 

here are a couple of the pics of the results... i still need to do a few adjustments as the cutoff is slightly crooked. the cutoff is razor sharp close up, but in the cutoff pic it looks fuzzy from the distance that the pic was taken. overall, i am happy with it, much better than stock.

 

looks good, I hope to have mine done next week!

 

the cut offs are off some
meaning the metal thing need to bent
the cutoff should be sharp at that distance,
make the cutoff sharp at about 25' and it will be sharp further out

i had the same problem


after i messed around with the metal sheild some more