Thanks for this great write up!!
My passenger side window would go down but not back up (really inconvenient when your passenger decides he/she wants a little air and you can't stop them in time...) So I decided why not try this DIY?
I went to good old walmart and purchased some aerosol brake cleaner and white grease to clean the motor up with. Used this DIY to get to the motor and spent a good 15 minutes cleaning all of the buildup off of it. I also took a emory board to the copper part of the armature to get it good as new. After reinstalling the panel and testing it out... It worked good as new! Went from not working at all to working better than before!
Once again, thank you for this write up!

 

Just wanted to make the following comments (they may have already been mentioned somewhere in this lengthy thread):

-This is a temporary fix. There is a fundamental problem with these motors, in that the brushes are too soft, and will eventually wear down and not contact the armature, rendering the motor useless. If someone can source harder brushes and know how physically replace them, that would be ideal.

-This cleaning is needed because of the aforementioned soft brushes. The soft brushes when worn create the carbon buildup which prevents electrical contact. Contact is temporarily restored through this cleaning, but eventually will break down once the brushes are reduced beyond a certain height.

 

completed a DIY video for this: http://infinitihelp.com/diy/gcoupe/p..._procedure.htm

 

thanks for the video. I will update the first post with this vid..however at the start you dont have to pry off very hard..there is a notch..those notches are actually made for a Flat-Head screw-drive that you slide up in there to allow you to pry out on. Also on the window switch you can pop in a flathead and just pop off the window switch to acess the wiring harness alot easier.

pry up here:



access the harness very easy.



On the bottom side there should be a little slot. Stick the flathead into this slot and twist your screw driver or pull out on it.

 

Actually I did in fact use a flat head screw driving which was inserted into the notch at the bottom of the panel, it was just really stuck on there. As for window switch, that could've been one way, but i wanted to avoid marring the finish around the switch. Good points though

 

video added to first post

 

Just wondering if anyone else has this problem: my passenger side window when you use the auto-up button will roll all the way up and then automatically drop down about 4 inches. The only way to fix this is for me to hold the auto up button for about 10 seconds, or to just roll the window up without the auto button. However, when anyone gets out of the car and closes the door, the window will drop down 4 inches again, so I always have to be the last to get out of the car to roll up the window after people get out.

 

mine did that as well sometimes..I just pulled apart and created this DIY after experiencing multiple issues....cleaning it may help but sometimes that is a sign of your window motor going out....I eventually just replace both windows in my car.

 

When you think about how often these motors go out, whether you clean it or replace it, it is a temporary solution.

 

search...i already did a write-up on replacing the brushes with better units:

http://my350z.com/forum/maintenance-...-be-fixed.html

 

ah, and there's my post on page 12 of this thread already stating that cleaning them isn't enough and the brushes should be replaced.

 

Awesome, that fix is exactly what people need. Thanks for the write-up. The brush replacement coupled with the cleaning in this thread will provide volks with a very inexpensive solution.

 

Thanks a lot g35man04, that was very helpful. Putting it back together again was a lot more difficult than taking it apart, I didn't know that until I had to do it, but that was helpful and doing it was kind of fun.

oran9e posted that he sanded the copper and applied grease to the thread; I think including that in the original post would be even more helpful. I'm saying this because I was a little lazy to grease the thread and now when the window goes up it makes some noise. I'm thinking as the grease already on the thread spreads this noise will go away, but applying the grease when I had taken it apart would have been smart. Also I couldn't get all the carbon off the copper with using just cotton swabs and rubbing alcohol; sanding the copper would be better as long as it doesn't affect the operation of the motor.

I will include this in case someone is interested: my original problem was my window would become stuck at different positions on the passenger side. If I drop the window all the way I would have to bang the door to get it up again. This DIY appears to have fixed that.

 

Welcome. I didn't mean to be crappy when i said search. I'm usually pretty blunt in how i answer and i wasn't trying to be mean in any way towards you.

depending on the noises being made and how it sticks it might be the regulator (cables and junk that the motor attaches to) that is going out. Mine was a combination of both. The window would studder as it went up, it would get stuck, and it also made noise. Replacing the regulator when i fixed the motor and now it goes up smooth as silk with no noise at all.

The regulator is around 50-60$ from the dealership.

 

Cleaned my motor about 2 months ago and it finally went out again this past weekend. Just got done replacing it with a re manufactured motor(lifetime free replacement) but you know how when you open the doors the windows drop so they dont hang up on the weather stripping? Mine now drops about an inch as opposed to it used to only dropping about 1/4" It still closes tight against the weather stripping but drops too far for my liking when the pass. door is opened.

Whats a quick fix for this? What needs to be adjusted?