Diy: Sticky For Window Motor Repairs/door Panel Removal

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Old Jan 5, 2010 | 04:22 AM
  #211  
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Has the cleaning approach or refurbished motor worked long term for anyone? I bought a motor from Autozone (they are refurb) and it worked great for about 6 months and petered out again. It's under warranty so I'm good there but I really don't want to have to mess with it again. I'm thinking of just buying a brand new motor!
 
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Old Jan 5, 2010 | 05:07 PM
  #212  
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Hey I bought a new motor 6 months ago from autozone, and followed a similar DYI guide, and it worked great up until NOW, and I’m having the same problem all over again on my drivers side window (window is slow to move down, gets stuck, doesn’t roll up etc). Could it possible that something else is wrong other than the motor that I can easily check such as the regulator? Or window relay? I’m thinking of taking it to the dealer, but would be pretty pissed to spend $100 just for them to check and tell me it’s my motor AGAIN.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2010 | 06:27 PM
  #213  
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everything
Props on the write-up! Just finished cleaning out my pass. side motor, works like new now. Hopefully it keeps working. Tons of build up in mine.

The only problem(well not really a problem) was putting the nuts back on that hold the 2 arms to the backside of the panel. The arms didnt want to come out far enuf to meet the panel but I poked and prodded with a screwdriver until enuf threading was coming thru to start the nut back on.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 01:03 AM
  #214  
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Originally Posted by jtwenger
Hey I bought a new motor 6 months ago from autozone, and followed a similar DYI guide, and it worked great up until NOW, and I’m having the same problem all over again on my drivers side window (window is slow to move down, gets stuck, doesn’t roll up etc). Could it possible that something else is wrong other than the motor that I can easily check such as the regulator? Or window relay? I’m thinking of taking it to the dealer, but would be pretty pissed to spend $100 just for them to check and tell me it’s my motor AGAIN.

regulator makes a popping and grinding sound when the window goes up or down. it also jerks really bad.

slow window is the motor
 
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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 08:18 AM
  #215  
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I also believe its a 1 yr warranty - just take it back and get a new one FOR FREE.. Oreilly and Autozone should be the same as far as warranty goes..
 
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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 04:05 PM
  #216  
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Originally Posted by G2FLIP4
The only problem(well not really a problem) was putting the nuts back on that hold the 2 arms to the backside of the panel. The arms didnt want to come out far enuf to meet the panel but I poked and prodded with a screwdriver until enuf threading was coming thru to start the nut back on.
Tape the window in the fully closed position, i.e. rolled all the way up, Then tape the window to the door frame. I used duct tape and taped it to the corner near the side mirror. The alignment with the regulators' holes and threading moved only about 1/8-inch.

(Tip on using duct tape: You don't need much, so don't get carried away; duct tape residue can be a pain to remove. Also, tape may tear the rubber seal around the door).


Hopefully, this is helpful.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2010 | 10:14 PM
  #217  
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Originally Posted by Ahnuld
Tape the window in the fully closed position, i.e. rolled all the way up, Then tape the window to the door frame. I used duct tape and taped it to the corner near the side mirror. The alignment with the regulators' holes and threading moved only about 1/8-inch.

(Tip on using duct tape: You don't need much, so don't get carried away; duct tape residue can be a pain to remove. Also, tape may tear the rubber seal around the door).


Hopefully, this is helpful.
step away from the duct tape. duct tape leaves a horrible residue, it will bond to window tint and not come off, and the chemicals will eat the clearcoat on your car.

Use blue (or lime green) painters tape. It's paint safe and holds just fine.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2010 | 09:42 PM
  #218  
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just did the fix and it worked awesome! its was a pain to get the actuator bolts back through the metal panel again!!!
 
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Old Feb 7, 2010 | 01:39 PM
  #219  
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Originally Posted by WACK BEATS
just did the fix and it worked awesome! its was a pain to get the actuator bolts back through the metal panel again!!!
Tip: Start with some of the panel screws screwed loosely into a few of the top holes of the panel. This will allow for some wriggle room to reach behind and get those regulator bolts and nuts lined up. It may take a few attempts, but it will work.

On the second window, I taped the window up this time. The regulator dropped only about 1/8". And do use binder's suggestion of taping with painter's tape and NOT duct tape. I had to use some Goo-Off to remove the residue. Thanks for the tip, binder.
 
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Old Feb 7, 2010 | 06:14 PM
  #220  
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g35man04 --- lemme tell you, YOU just saved me almost $400, which is what the dealership quoted me to fix my "worn out" driver's side window motor. I'm absolutely BEAMING!

Upon disassembly, your dirty motor looked CLEAN compared to mine. Mine was FILTHY and after cleaning with rubbing alcohol and Q-tips, I put things half-way back together and tested with my wife standing there (for moral support and to hold my beer)... and SUCCESS!!! Works like new!! We both did a happy dance in the front yard.

YOU DA MAN! Thanks so much for this tutorial.... I haven't worked on a car since my old VW bus, and this brought back memories.

Cheers,
Chris -- 2004 G35 coupe with TWO working windows.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2010 | 08:37 PM
  #221  
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So after 6 months of beating the door to make it roll up and down it finally wouldn't roll up. So I followed the DIY. Cleaned it with alcohol and Q-tips. I also used a nail file because the carbon wouldn't come off the copper very well. Tested the window, and it didn't even move . I think it's the brushes. I'm getting power to them, but it looks like 1 of them isn't touching.

I at least got the window rolled up by turning the motor with a drill. Going to look for new brushes tomorrow. Do you guys think a Radio Shack would have them?
 
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Old Feb 22, 2010 | 06:02 PM
  #222  
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Window fully stuck down - can I force up?

This is great. Critical question since it's snowing outside: is there a way to force the glass up so that it's stuck in the closed rather than open position while I wait for my new motor to arrive?

I'm going to try the cleaning thing tonight anyways but failing that, I'll place the order with autozone.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 04:07 PM
  #223  
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i jus got my 03 g coupe and heres my symptoms. i just read the whole 15 pages and got alot of good info. my pass side squeals when going down but doesnt squeal when going up. and when i open the door with the window up it sound like the window is wobbling or something. will a reset fix this or do i need to regrease something?

and the driver side works fine except when the windows up and u close the doors it does that extra seal up function fine but sounds like it goin a little to far up . a reset should fix that?

thanks!
 
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 04:17 PM
  #224  
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nice write up!!!
 
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 04:26 PM
  #225  
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bookmarked. Thanks
 
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