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Here's a guide that my mate wrote up who helped with mine.
I've finished my 6MT swap although have to drop the trans. I went without a pilot bearing and got insane loud vibrations on throttle through the gears. So I got to remove the large auto pilot bushing and replace with the small manual one. Other than that everything is great and working sweet.
Any questions just hit me up and I'll try to help.
Cheers
jesus I wish i had thought of the transmission tunnel from the z I scrapped but I’m relocating the shifter instead of cutting it. Great write up thanks for the information, I may do the same for the clutch pedal bracket
Yeh no ****.. I did not use a manual trans tunnel though.
Cut two slits for shifter bracket to fit.
Had to make 3 different sized custom lathed spacers for the handbrake mounting a different machinist friend helped me with Took a lot of head scrathing.
Modified the bracket for the Bosch unit in center console to fit, just flatened it and cut a section off to mount to the handbrake mount.
Got a custom handbrake cable made from handle to in front of diff.
and chopped off the top section of the cable trans tunnel pass through to seal and direct the cable from rubbing.
Had to engage the ignition park cable out so I could release the key. Just used cable ties..
MY 2002 JDM V35 SEDAN CVT MODEL> 6MT SWAP.
(Headlight fixed since pic, needed bulbs replaced)
I made everything look pretty OEM in the end. Apart from a aluminium sheet I traced and cut to size to seal the shifter location with. And sound proofing over that to seal any gaps to pass inspection mainly. My car is unregistered, was booked in last week but had to cancel.
Im going to add to the link I shared explaining what steps I took differently including photos. Just haven't had much time to do so lately.
Most guys are notching the shifter hole it seems why not shorten the shifter bracket and linkage? That’s my plan at least but you guys are covering the hole with interior vs my car being a stripped down track car so the notch is probably a simpler process
Most guys are notching the shifter hole it seems why not shorten the shifter bracket and linkage? That’s my plan at least but you guys are covering the hole with interior vs my car being a stripped down track car so the notch is probably a simpler process
It's more work than needed imo. Gkteck or serial 9 shifter bracket is the cleaner but expensive route. I was working on a budget the shifter location is perfect for me. Sure you got to cut some slits but in hindsight I only needed to peel back like 1-2cm. Not sure if the bracket is aluminium or steel for cutting and welding too. A shifter bracket can be fabbed easy enough but you also have to modify the shifter linkage.
My goals are a street/drift setup. So not stripped down.
I’m in a bit of a pinch here, hopefully someone can help. i bought an 04 g35 coupe from a private seller, long, long story short, I found out afterwards that it was swapped from AT to MT ... everything seems to have went fine except one issue. PNP switch code. Now I read on this thread that you can reflash the ecu and erase the code parameters, but I CANNOT find anyone who can do this for me. I am in the San Diego area any suggestions would help a ton. Thank you
I’m in a bit of a pinch here, hopefully someone can help. i bought an 04 g35 coupe from a private seller, long, long story short, I found out afterwards that it was swapped from AT to MT ... everything seems to have went fine except one issue. PNP switch code. Now I read on this thread that you can reflash the ecu and erase the code parameters, but I CANNOT find anyone who can do this for me. I am in the San Diego area any suggestions would help a ton. Thank you
is a Pxxxx code, for PNP (Park neutral position) specifically pops up when the ECU is trying to communicate with the Auto transmission. And since it’s not there the ECU is throwing that code
is a Pxxxx code, for PNP (Park neutral position) specifically pops up when the ECU is trying to communicate with the Auto transmission. And since it’s not there the ECU is throwing that code
Uprev will block it then. That's what I did.
I had a high idle from it though, it was definitely PNP wire related though nobody here had that happen. Mine was a awd car so I think that had to do with it. I was the first and 6 spd swap so I'm wondering if subsequent awd swappers had the same issue- probably won't be many since I needed a custom driveshaft.
I had a high idle from it though, it was definitely PNP wire related though nobody here had that happen. Mine was a awd car so I think that had to do with it. I was the first and 6 spd swap so I'm wondering if subsequent awd swappers had the same issue- probably won't be many since I needed a custom driveshaft.
What kind of price are we talking to get something like that done? Rough estimate
also, dude you had an AWD G35? That’s so badass :O
Sorry, newbie to the thread here.
I have an 06 sedan with an i-key and live in Phoenix which means I need to pass emissions. I work at Nissan so I have alot of help from techs with consult 2 and have all the mechanical part of the swap down. My concern is obviously electrical, I haven't seen anything on the ikey system and how it may or may not work. I have access to a 06 coupe 6mt cluster and ecm, would it be better to use or not use those? The thread started off seeming better to use them but as it went on it seems like people are having issues. Also if I wire up the 5at ecm to the 6mt sensors and use uprev to delete some parameters as been mentioned here with it still pass Phoenix emissions as they are very particular. Any and all information on this is greatly appreciated. Thank you all in advance.
That's what I figured/hoped was the case but what about the ecm, cluster deal? Should I utilize them since they are available to me? (If so how would I do so properly) or will they do more harm than good and don't bother? Also does the 05-06 wire up the same as 03-04? And once you cancel those perameters with uprev do you have no check engine light and all readiness monitors pass and complete? Thanks again
I know this thread hasn't been very active lately, but I made a new account just so I could post on this. It's looking like if I was able to buy a 350z with an AT that I could just swap it over to an MT for FAR less than buying an MT Z. I read through the entire forum and am wondering if this would work on an 07/08 350z with the VQ35HR motor? I know people here were doing mostly 03's and 04's, but if it'd work and I could get an 07 for the same price as an 04 I'd rather do that since it has more HP, although I don't know if that means the wiring would be all fubared and that it just wouldn't work. does anyone know?
I know this thread hasn't been very active lately, but I made a new account just so I could post on this. It's looking like if I was able to buy a 350z with an AT that I could just swap it over to an MT for FAR less than buying an MT Z. I read through the entire forum and am wondering if this would work on an 07/08 350z with the VQ35HR motor? I know people here were doing mostly 03's and 04's, but if it'd work and I could get an 07 for the same price as an 04 I'd rather do that since it has more HP, although I don't know if that means the wiring would be all fubared and that it just wouldn't work. does anyone know?
Should be straight forward on a HR platform.
CD 00# trans won't work, you will need a newer JK trans as DE vs HR have different bellhousing bolt patten. Also some models of the JK trans have an extra module on-top of the trans for rev matching/Auto throttle blip for shifting, you'd have to do some research on that.
Other than that I think it should be the very similar..
01-19-2019, 01:16 AM
