what did you do to make the hand brake work I took mine out and was testing the hand brake and the cable doesn’t reach the other cables under the car to attach did you get different cables

 

I really would like to know what the solution was. I feel like u might have to make a bracket using the manual center console/armrest and cut through to bottom to run the ebrake cable. Any help with the ebrake is greatly appreciated, I'm tired of not being able to have the car running when on a hill if I'm not inside:/

 

I'm about to embark on this swap by myself as I've chewed through my 3rd AT in a matter of months. So far I have the following:

- 06 G35 Coupe 5AT (duh)
- CD008 Trans out of a 350z (has OEM slave cylinder on it)
- 6MT 350z Clutch / Brake pedals and assemblies
- Clutch Master Cylinder / lines
- OEM Clutch + Flywheel
- VLSD and driveshaft out of a 6MT G35

I'm sure I may be missing one or two things. The other issue is the only space I have to work on this is inside a rather large storage unit. Has anyone completed this swap in their own garage with limited tools? I would only have floor jacks and 3 ton floor stands as well. I pulled the 2nd AT with hand tools, so I know it's possible without air tools.

 

Hey, can you help me figure out what to wire up to start my car after I do my manual trans swap? I'm doing this on an 08 G37 coupe and I can see that the wiring diagrams between the G37 and G35 are different, and it looks like there's many more relays I need to worry about. Any help is appreciated, Thanks!

Wiring Diagram : https://www.nicoclub.com/service-man...e/2008/STR.pdf PAGE 9

 

Hey everyone,
I'm starting to plan out my parts list for when I eventually start on this swap. I am looking for some advice/experience from anyone who has swapped on an early '03 sedan with the old style ECU. So I know that people successfully do this swap keeping their 5AT harness and ECU. However, does having the old style ECU make this impossible in any way, given the the G35 was never sold with a manual AND this ECU type? The only changes that I think I'd I would have to make include wiring in the 12V to IPDM to start the car, and wiring in the neutral position sensor to the ECU. I really want to keep the ECU so I don't have to deal with reprogramming keys and what not, and since I have an old ECU/harness/connectors, if I replace the ecu I HAVE to replace the harness as well because the connectors are different on this early type harness (I believe).

If anyone has gone through this with the early sedan ECU, let me know!!

Thanks guys

 

Hello I might be late on the post just now doing a swap where could I find these wiring for the auto harness I have the pigtails from the manual car I just don’t know what to wire it too thank you

 

Hey Ivy,
I just finished up this swap on my early 03 sedan with the old style ECU. My one recommendation to you is to leave all of the auto wiring in the car and not to even try to use a 6MT harness. I made this mistake as I had a full parts car and it ended up with me installing/removing 2 of the wiring harnesses 5 times between the 2 cars (remove from 6MT, remove from auto, install 6MT in auto, remove 6MT from auto, reinstall auto). In order to fully swap the early auto harness with 6MT you need all 3 engine control harnesses which are the dash harness , harness on engine, harness around engine. The first 2 are fairly easy to remove however in order to remove the third several heater core and brake lines must be cut/ removed. In addition to this I believe some of the other small harnesses within the car are incompatible as when the 6MT harness was installed my tail lights were permanently on whenever the battery was connected. The only wiring I actually needed to do in order to have a running car is wiring the clutch switch to the IPDM.

I hope this has answered you questions regarding the swap in an early 03,

Good luck if you decide to proceed!

 

MoG's,
Thanks for the info! I have a follow-up question:
If you left the entire auto harness in the car, how did you get around the issue of the car still thinking that it has the auto transmission? I've heard of one swap where it was required that VDC was turned off. I guess this tricked the ECU into not reading the AT sensors which would cause VDC to cut power. Is this the case for you as well, or do you have a better way around this issue?

 

So as of now I have only put about 50km on it and it seams to drive fine. I have been using Nissan datascan to log the ECU data and haven't seen anything funny so far. I have tried the car both with VDC on for normal driving as well as with VDC off on some snowy roads

The car does have the check engine soon light on and the 2 codes it is throwing are related to not having an auto transmission speed signal and a can data error in communication with the auto transmission, neither have had any affect on the drivability thus far however.

 

Im installing the ebrake my my line is too long did u have the same problem

 

Are you sure you got the ebrake line from a 6MT ?

 

I swapped my engine and trans for the Revup engine and manual trans I also put the ECU into the car, do I still need to wire the neutral position to be on?

 

my auto driveshaft worked fine without any cutting or modification, and do you need to set tdc timing before you start it? The flywheel has a notch that lines it up on the crank so it’s almost dummy proof. Haven’t attempted to start the car yet as I need to wire the pnss, and reverse switches, and lengthen the ebrake wire to the handbrake, because it used to go to the one on the floor and is now too short, but the swap is basically done. Also what trans oil did you use?
I’m going to attempt to match the auto pnss and reverse light switch wiring to the manual sensors, as I’ve bought the pigtails for both sensors (both are the same 2 wire pigtail connectors). So no need to run a wire from the ipdm, under the dash and around. I figured the wires are already there for the old sensors and would only need lengthened a few inches. There are 4 wires on the left in the center console in front of the shifter, and three on the right. One wire is green and common with both the reverse light switch and up and down manual-matic shifter, one wire went to the down shift switch and another to the up shift switch.
I can only assume the green wire is the ground for both reverse switch and up/down shifting switches, and the other is signal for the reverse lights. On the right are three wires with a similar case. Two went to the switch on the auto shifter module for when you take the car out of park (park/neutral safety) and one went to something else. Again I believe one was ground for both sensors, and that leaves signal for both sensors separately. Anyway somebody can confirm this? I’m going to use my voltmeter and test the signals to see which is which and I have yet to get the pin outs for the ecu, because the online manual pdfs won’t load, and google is a haystack that I need to sort through for the needle, so if anybody has the auto ecu pinouts for the 04 sedan, that would be great. Feel free to send that my way please? I’ll post pics and detailed step by step instructions, to make wiring the two sensors much easier and cleaner that I believe I’ve found in threads on this swap. sorry for the book.

 

my car keeps saying A/T and slip, and it’s locking the brakes up so it won’t go anywhere. Any suggestions on what I can do to fix this?

 

mine is slightly off, but with some drilling and remounting it’ll be right where it needs to be, but I used one of the holes already drilled in the floor. I lined it up with the center console on top of it and found out where it would land approximately on the floor and just used one of the bolts already in the floor. I think it was the yaw sensor bolt hole, or further back, but mine works fine.