Drivetrain Questions and info regarding transmissions, clutches, etc.

DIY: 5AT to 6MT SWAP.

Old Jul 18, 2012 | 12:41 PM
  #106  
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updated. I will snap a pic of the pedal and stuff and I am working on offering a plug and play wiring solution for 5at harness holders. I will also post the reverse light fix soon. sorry for the wait.

I have been busy putting a VQ in this...



 
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Old Jul 21, 2012 | 11:18 PM
  #107  
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Just did my swap today, just a tip for anyone else doing the swap, the wire on the ipdm on a 2003 coupe is grey/red not grey/yellow. It threw me for a loop for a sec. It looks like someone sold me a bad transmission, it's making all kinds of noises so I will be pulling it back out.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2012 | 04:00 PM
  #108  
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Originally Posted by pure sex
Just did my swap today, just a tip for anyone else doing the swap, the wire on the ipdm on a 2003 coupe is grey/red not grey/yellow. It threw me for a loop for a sec. It looks like someone sold me a bad transmission, it's making all kinds of noises so I will be pulling it back out.
Yea. Forgot to edit that, i did on the 350z forum..

It might not be the trans. The clutch has to be bled really well. People go through the same problem.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2012 | 10:00 PM
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I am wondering if someone can help me with a few issues. I work at an infiniti dealership and I tried to program the ecu with a manual trans program but it will not accept it. Is there someway around this? Also I am getting a vehicle speed sensor A/T code that is throwing a check engine light and I don't think this will pass the emissions test with that light on. Is there anyway to get this code from coming on?

Demolition: thanks for this thread, it made the swap somewhat easy. I don't remember if you said anything about making a bracket for the top of the clutch pedal to keep the firewall from flexing but I had to make one otherwise I couldn't get my full pedal stroke and be able to shift gears. The clutch is bled well and I have no trans noise with it fully depressed but I do have noise with the clutch out. I ended up making a block off plate out of aluminum to cover the hole. I need to get the thick rubber boot that goes over the shifter to eliminate the rest of the noise.
 
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Old Aug 9, 2012 | 07:57 PM
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Did you have to drill your own holes for the e-brake. None seem to line up.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2012 | 04:24 PM
  #111  
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Oh man this thread is awesome i almost forgot to check for more updates. Demo will you be posting these "wiring soultions" for sale?
 
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Old Aug 10, 2012 | 04:25 PM
  #112  
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BTW let me see if i can get a mod in here to sticky this.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2012 | 06:19 PM
  #113  
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Originally Posted by DEMoLITIoN
It doesn't go in that end silly


Also, thread stickied for future generations asking about AT->MT
 
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Old Aug 14, 2012 | 04:20 PM
  #114  
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From: North Bay 707
Originally Posted by Charles13
Did you have to drill your own holes for the e-brake. None seem to line up.
Yes, I am sorry for the lack of updates. Other things have gotten in the way. Also If you guys want to contribute more pictures/info feel free to do so and I can edit the how to.

Originally Posted by pure sex
I am wondering if someone can help me with a few issues. I work at an infiniti dealership and I tried to program the ecu with a manual trans program but it will not accept it. Is there someway around this? Also I am getting a vehicle speed sensor A/T code that is throwing a check engine light and I don't think this will pass the emissions test with that light on. Is there anyway to get this code from coming on?

Demolition: thanks for this thread, it made the swap somewhat easy. I don't remember if you said anything about making a bracket for the top of the clutch pedal to keep the firewall from flexing but I had to make one otherwise I couldn't get my full pedal stroke and be able to shift gears. The clutch is bled well and I have no trans noise with it fully depressed but I do have noise with the clutch out. I ended up making a block off plate out of aluminum to cover the hole. I need to get the thick rubber boot that goes over the shifter to eliminate the rest of the noise.
Puresex, A aftermarket tuning program is usually needed. Technosquare flashes seem to be the way to go. You can also use uprev or COBB. The way my tuner (cobb) explained it to me - When you lose the AT you get codes because those components are missing. All my tuner did was remove those parameters form the ECU so it does not search for it. Technically its not a AT > MT flash but more of disabling certain things that cause faults. In CA smog can have ONE fault. The Issue is a U1000 code for the COMM It does not effect driveability or emissions at all. I did not make a bracket for the clutch pedal. I do not get any flex. Would you like to post some pictures of the block off plate? It sounds interesting.

Originally Posted by Sparda1123
Oh man this thread is awesome i almost forgot to check for more updates. Demo will you be posting these "wiring soultions" for sale?
I'm not doing this to make money. I just want to find a way to make this plug and play by using OEM connectors.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2012 | 08:47 AM
  #115  
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I see, does anyone know the codes that are thrown when you do the swap without the ecu? If so il take a look at osiris tonight to make sure you could disable them all.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2012 | 09:11 AM
  #116  
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Originally Posted by Sparda1123
I see, does anyone know the codes that are thrown when you do the swap without the ecu? If so il take a look at osiris tonight to make sure you could disable them all.
Originally Posted by Canadian
You also don't need a 6MT ECU, you just either need software to block the code or deal with a U1000 code which is for the TCM.
believe that's it
 
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Old Aug 15, 2012 | 12:39 PM
  #117  
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Good info for this thread...pics of the process of wiring up ignition, only other wiring i guess would be for NPS neutral position sensor. If anyone know what wire does what it would be greatly appreciated


Originally Posted by driftk1d
You are going to need to remove the area around the battery cover for the wiring. Here are pictures.



you are going to need to splice the grey and red wire in the bottom right plug on the IMPD and jump it to the ignition fuse by the battery.



its the small red wire going from the pink ignition fuse to the bottom right of the IMPD. lmk if you guys have any questions.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2012 | 04:13 PM
  #118  
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From: North Bay 707
Added Neutral Position switch wiring instruction to front page.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2012 | 05:02 PM
  #119  
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Where's the neutral position sensor my good man?
 
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Old Aug 16, 2012 | 04:18 PM
  #120  
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From: North Bay 707
The Neutral Position Switch is the only plug on the passenger side of the transmission. The Revers light switch is on the drivers side.
 
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