Easy Ecu Resetting
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Joined: May 2006
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Wow couldn't be easier.
I think you guys are not pushing the pedal down fast enough. 5 times both directions in 5 seconds is fast. I counted it all in my head but didn't bother for the accelerator pedal because it's a race against the clock as it is.
I think you guys are not pushing the pedal down fast enough. 5 times both directions in 5 seconds is fast. I counted it all in my head but didn't bother for the accelerator pedal because it's a race against the clock as it is.
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 538
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From: Miami, FL
ECU Reset is always recommended after any upgrade to your engine. If you install a new Air Intake, Plenum Spacer, Headers, Exhaust, Grounding Kit, Forced Inducton...ect ect you should always reset your ECU. This will allow the ECU to adjust for the new MOD and take full advantage of install. That's why most of you who never notice an increase in performance after a MOD will notice a big boost after ECU reset. This is an old and basic step after any engine MOD.
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03
Originally Posted by driguez
i have tried at least 20 times and half of those with a stop watch and i cant get the light to blink, damn it... btw i have an 03 if that makes a dif
1. using a watch to count - timing is critical
2. when it says "turn to ON" - for me, I was only able to have success by turning it to the ON position, then slightly past the on position, until the dash lights go out, and you hear the fuel pump kick in (engine NOT on...). Then holding it in this position while I went through the procedure. Just did it last night...
Originally Posted by andycon
I have an 03 - I got it to work by;
1. using a watch to count - timing is critical
2. when it says "turn to ON" - for me, I was only able to have success by turning it to the ON position, then slightly past the on position, until the dash lights go out, and you hear the fuel pump kick in (engine NOT on...). Then holding it in this position while I went through the procedure. Just did it last night...
1. using a watch to count - timing is critical
2. when it says "turn to ON" - for me, I was only able to have success by turning it to the ON position, then slightly past the on position, until the dash lights go out, and you hear the fuel pump kick in (engine NOT on...). Then holding it in this position while I went through the procedure. Just did it last night...
will try it, thanx a lot
Originally Posted by driguez
well i tried and tried and it didnt work, so im just going to do the old 12 hour disconect, i wonder if it has to do with my sedan being an 03
Rick
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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 533
Likes: 3
From: Outside Seattle, WA
Hmm, well, since no one answered my question, I went ahead and did it. Figured I wouldn't get it right away, but guess what? First try, a success, counting the time in my head. I don't get what everyone says is so hard about the 5-in-5... punch, punch, punch, punch, punch really quickly and you're good. Oh well.
Anyway, I haven't driven insanely hard or anything to see what it does at its limits, but it seems to have done SOMETHING. The shifts seem quicker, even in D they don't wait until redline when floored like before, and it seems more eager when floored to downshift quickly. I also noticed more "burbling" in D when coming to a stop - something I didn't notice before unless I was in the tiptronic mode and downshifting myself.
It also, when pushed hard in first and second gear, seems to have done something. Maybe it's my mind, maybe it's because the shifts come at a more appropriate (sp?) time, who knows, but it seems like it has a little more power - not much, but a little - higher in the RPM. Not to mention that reaching 60 seemed more effortless than ever in D. Tomorrow when I hit the freeway I'll update ya guys on if I notice anything more than the basic change as it's all when city driving today.
Anyway, I haven't driven insanely hard or anything to see what it does at its limits, but it seems to have done SOMETHING. The shifts seem quicker, even in D they don't wait until redline when floored like before, and it seems more eager when floored to downshift quickly. I also noticed more "burbling" in D when coming to a stop - something I didn't notice before unless I was in the tiptronic mode and downshifting myself.
It also, when pushed hard in first and second gear, seems to have done something. Maybe it's my mind, maybe it's because the shifts come at a more appropriate (sp?) time, who knows, but it seems like it has a little more power - not much, but a little - higher in the RPM. Not to mention that reaching 60 seemed more effortless than ever in D. Tomorrow when I hit the freeway I'll update ya guys on if I notice anything more than the basic change as it's all when city driving today.
Originally Posted by ISMSOLUTIONS
You don't need 12 hours - it's only 8 minutes with the negative terminal disconnected. Then before hooking it back up, hold the brake pedal down for about 30 seconds.
Rick
Rick
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From: PNW in Washington
6MT Coupe
Bump.....
Read most of these pages, but not all 299 replies...sorry.
From what I've read so far, the one pedal proceedure posted is only reseting the ECU.
There are more steps beyond just reseting the ECU. There's Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning, Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning and Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning) proceedures in addition to just resetting the ECU.
I would think these are just as important resetting as well. In a sense, making sure these components are in check (calibrated) to the ECU, which if not in calibration, could affect performance, IMHO.
The ECU reset proceedure mentioned many times here and the additional I've mentioned can be found from Technosquare.
http://www.technosquareinc.com/350reset.htm
As far as doing the battery thing, think I'll choose not to do it that way for two reasons.
One, PITA to reset all my presets on FM and Sirirus and probably bluetooth address book and voice training as well. Including stored Navi address locations.
Two, read someone posted this not a good idea due to possible ECU burn-out, said by a Dealer. IMO, there's a reason for the capacitors keeping the ECU seeing volts and not to be completely discharged. And when battery is reconnected, could cause a surge to the ECU resulting in cooking it.
Idk, not a electronic chip engineer, but that's my logic and .02 worth.
Read most of these pages, but not all 299 replies...sorry.
From what I've read so far, the one pedal proceedure posted is only reseting the ECU.
There are more steps beyond just reseting the ECU. There's Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning, Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning and Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning) proceedures in addition to just resetting the ECU.
I would think these are just as important resetting as well. In a sense, making sure these components are in check (calibrated) to the ECU, which if not in calibration, could affect performance, IMHO.
The ECU reset proceedure mentioned many times here and the additional I've mentioned can be found from Technosquare.
http://www.technosquareinc.com/350reset.htm
As far as doing the battery thing, think I'll choose not to do it that way for two reasons.
One, PITA to reset all my presets on FM and Sirirus and probably bluetooth address book and voice training as well. Including stored Navi address locations.
Two, read someone posted this not a good idea due to possible ECU burn-out, said by a Dealer. IMO, there's a reason for the capacitors keeping the ECU seeing volts and not to be completely discharged. And when battery is reconnected, could cause a surge to the ECU resulting in cooking it.
Idk, not a electronic chip engineer, but that's my logic and .02 worth.
Last edited by V35 Skyline GT; Sep 11, 2006 at 01:23 PM.
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 734
Likes: 1
From: Sunny CA
Originally Posted by 06CPV35
Bump.....
Two, read someone posted this not a good idea due to possible ECU burn-out, said by a Dealer. IMO, there's a reason for the capacitors keeping the ECU seeing volts and not to be completely discharged. And when battery is reconnected, could cause a surge to the ECU resulting in cooking it.
Idk, not a electronic chip engineer, but that's my logic and .02 worth.
Two, read someone posted this not a good idea due to possible ECU burn-out, said by a Dealer. IMO, there's a reason for the capacitors keeping the ECU seeing volts and not to be completely discharged. And when battery is reconnected, could cause a surge to the ECU resulting in cooking it.
Idk, not a electronic chip engineer, but that's my logic and .02 worth.
