^^^
When you change out your battery, you're not discharging the ECU capacitors every time.
Let me rephrase my statement. 'And when battery is reconnected, could cause a surge to the capacitors which could surge to the ECU resulting in cooking it.'
Capacitors hold an electrical charge which keeps a trickel of juice to the ECU even with no battery for awhile.
Of course if you leave the ECU with no battery, say for 12 hrs, the capacitors will slowly discharge on their own.
If you'll notice in the battery reset proceedure, you pump the brake pedal a few times (this is to discharge the capacitors) and let it sit for X amount of time.

I just look at it this way, There's a reason for the published reset proceedure. The battery proceedure is not a publish proceedure nor approved, that I know of. I prefer to use the approved published proceedure that performance shops and Dealers use and not take a chance on the batterry thing, especially if you're going to reset often.
Just my opinion.

 

Yes, there are two procedures for disconnecting the battery. One is leaving it sit overnight to perform the reset.

The 2nd one is to disconnect the battery and pump the brake pedal to perform the reset. I am not aware of letting it set an 'X' amount of time after that.
The whole purpose of pumping the brake pedal is to circumvent having to leave the battery disconnected overnight.

If what you say is true, then it would make sense to follow the procedure in the manual. After all, if it is in the shop you would not want the tech leaving the battery disconnected overnight to accomplish the same thing he could by following the service manual.

I am not even convinced pumping the brake pedal does anything. At least I have not read a technical reason for it, whether it really works or not, whether it is harmful or not. A lot of this info is sketchy at best. If someone knows otherwise, please jump in!

 

The easiest battery method actually takes about 12 minutes - start to finish, not 12 hours.

Remove the negative terminal and time out 8 minutes. After 8 minutes minimum, turn the key to the ON position and step on the brake pedal for 30 seconds - I do it for 1 minute timed. Reconnect the negative and star the car - let it idle for 30 seconds - it should end up at the normal idle speed on it's own, if not lightly tap the throttle. Turn off the car and wait 15 seconds and your done.

This method will do everything but reprogram the awareness of the throttle position sensor, which you can do by following the technosquare instructions.

Rick

 

oh yea - forget about the ECU burnout thing - the ECU does not get full power until you turn the key - which is the same power surge as just removing the terminal and that's a regulated power source in the car.

Also keep in mind - you only need to remove the negative terminal...not both.

Rick

 

Thanks, Rick. That's the most detailed procedure I have read to date on the 'battery disconnect/brake pedal' procedure. I suspect many have not been doing that correctly, again, because of missing or sketchy info elsewhere.

 

No problem - I actually researched the components in the ECU and car schematic to figure out how to do it best.

The ECU does not even fully engage or activate it's engine management features unless the ignition is in the ON position and your foot is on the brake pedal for 2 seconds.

Rick

 

That was my next step, although knowing the correct time interval has to be supported with some trial and error, or did you infer those from timing charts the diagnosis section also?

I know Motordyne for one, does not have the procedure correct in their post-installation instructions. They do include all the steps for throttle position, etc. out of the Infiniti SM.

 

anyone have the pin-outs for the 04.5 6MT ECU? i want to wire up a
toggle switch in series to the memory backup wire so that i can disconnect
power to it without disconnecting the battery for the whole car.

Thanks.

 

i just did ricks method.. and it seems like it worked. since my KM a and b has been resetted... car responds a bit faster.. or maybe its just me ha ha.. im gonna be ridiing it hard now.. cant baby the car no more.

 

You'll notice it getting better and better as you put miles on it for the next 100 miles or so...enjoy!

Rick

 

Can't get the timing thing down for the reset. Do I have to wait 5 seconds before moving to step #2 if I was able to push the pedal in less than 5 seconds? In other words, if I can press the pedal fast 5x in like 3 seconds, do I move to step #2 or wait out the 5 seconds?
I'm having a difficult time with this method. I do not want to disconnect my battery as I paid a tech to reprogram a lot of settings with his ECU reader/writer. Don't want to risk loosing them to a power out.

 

If your ECU was reflashed - you shouldn't loose any settings from a simple battery disconnect.

Re: timing
The most important part of the timing is the initial 3 seconds = if you miss that, you'll never get the ECU to respond to your pedal hits to begin with.

After the 3 secs, hit 5X in 5 secs or less, then count to 7 seconds, depress gas pedal for 10 secs and wait for flashing CEL, then off the pedal for 10 secs and then back on 10 secs.

After your 5X in less than 5secs, count immediately to 7 secs...

Rick

 

just a note - i followed the diagram someone posted off Nissan University and it worked.

My g35 sedan is a Gulf Spec (for the heat we have here) and it worked on the second go. I missed the 3 secs at first so it didnt work. On the second go I got the engine light to come on and then go off.

Didnt notice much of a change but hey my car has only been through one servicing since its a month old

Once I get my MD 5/16 iso thermal plenum installed, I will reset the ecu and post back here.

To Infiniti and Beyond.....

 

Ok so by reseting the ecu, you guys really feel a difference? What if you are running a FI appilication like a vortech blower with the split second software? does that go into effect? I wouldnt mind trying to see for myself, just dont want to fix something that isn't broken.

 

Well yea, if you "Read" his post! I've tried this several times and still can't get the damn light to
blink......