for the ones with stage 3 what kind of mpg or tank full are you getting. for some reason in getting about 180 to a tank +/- and this is with normal driving not really getting on the gas to much.

 

Yeah, that's not right. Even with stage 4 (Larger injector, higher GPM fuel pump, different tune) i still get roughly the same gas miliage as stock with normal driving. On the interstate with the cruise on, i get the same as stock on road trips.

Your "normal" gas mileage with stage 3 is about where my "foot in the gas" miliage is at stage 4. I have no suggestions as to why you are seeing such crappy miliage. In theory, if installed correctly, all the Stillen kits should roughly yield the same since the SS box is locked. So all i can think is maybe your plugs may need changed.

 

plugs, filters, fluids all have been changed with in the last few weeks i have 47k on the car.. i started getting this problem when the tank wouldnt fill up all the way now that its does fill up i still have the bad mpg. im thinking the fuel pump but of course infiniti said it was fine. also i have the silver box from stillen

 

Hello everyone.... Just want to do a little update on what has been happening to my stage 4 supercharger...

I would say about last August my car just completely shut down and would not start due to bad wiring done by the original installer causing it to fry the ECU. Unfortunately the shop closed down and I just went ahead and took the car to Infiniti to have them fix the problem. Yes I paid for everything and it was not pretty... but looking at the work they did it was great...

Ever since this moment my car starts great, idles great, and drives like stock(when driven normally) until I punch it... It feels like a stage 2 until about 3500 rpm.... then it feels like a stage 4. Lets just say my car has VTEC...

I know its been a while since then but I haven't had the time to get a dyno to see whats going on. School has been killing me with time but I have a little more time now. I'll probably get it dynoed within the next 3 weeks. Im thinking it may be a bad stage 4 computer? any advice?

 

Not necessarly. Could be bad/loose/wrong wiring again.

It sounds to me like you are running on an OEM fuel map (I.E. the Stillen computer isn't intercepting the signals needed to "richen up" the fuel curve due to either bad/loose/wrong wiring, OR bad Stillen computer<----not likely) causing you to run DANGEROUSLY lean, untill the 7th injector kicks in at 85% throttle and adds more fuel. Thus giving the V-Tec feel.

This is another example of why i'm sooooo glad i did my own install. That way i know EVERYTHING is correct.

My suggestion is re-check the wiring, wire by wire. Call Stillen, they will email you the instructions that has the wiring schematics in there. The wiring is exactly the same no matter what stage you have. And easy to get backwards if you don't take your time and double check EVERYTHING. There is very little that you can install wrong on this setup without it being grossly obvious, the exception being the wiring.

I'd take it easy untill you fix it. What does your A/F meter read?

 

Thats what I figured at first.. I called Stillen and they told me the car shouldn't even start if wiring was wrong. I even had the mechanic that did the install talk to Stillen. My best advice was to go get the car dynoed so we can work from there.

The weird thing about the VTEC thing is that even if i were at 3000 rpm and just give it a little gas to go over 3500, I still get the sudden switch in power. Like I don't necessarily have to be getting on it to feel it.

I will definitely check the wires myself when I get the time and go for the dyno since I think thats the first step I have to do. I haven't been driving my car too much since then cause I don't want anything to happen in the middle of a drive. I guess thats okay for now cause Its been flooding real bad down here due to the rain and I've been driving a truck around

Thanks for the advice by the way

 

I really woundn't push it on a dyno if it isn't running right. I'm telling you, it has to be the wiring OR the box. (again, doubt the box is bad though)

Stillen is only half right. Some of those wires intercept the signals (you have to cut the wire from your OEM computer and it flows through to Stillen box back to the other side of the wire and to the sensor), and some of those wires connect (signal flows from OEM computer straight to the sensor, and the Stillen box simply tags along to read). One of the "connecting" wires could be off, and that would have no effect on your OEM computer as to "thinking" anything is odd. BUT the Stillen box wouldn't be seeing a sensor and act "wierd" or go into some sort of "limp mode" as it is.

 

You know that does make sense.... yeah I think i'll check out the wiring before I go for the dyno. I'll get back to you when I get the results. Thanks for the advice

 

No problem!! You learn alot by doing things yoruself!!

And again. If there is a problem that is severe enought that you can feel it, i would HIGHLY reccommend against putting it on a dyno, or driving it any harder then just daily driving from point A to point B. It's like thinking your arm might be broken so you decided to do some weightlifting to find out for sure.

P.S. If you call Stillen again, make sure you talk to Chuck Clemens. He's the "SC Guru" there. He's an older guy and has been with this blower from start to finish. He has got me out of alot of jams over the phone when doing my install. There are alot of tools that work there that will say your $hit is broke, just so they can get a sale on new stuff to replace it. Chuck isn't a salesman, so he'll set you straight without trying to make a buck!

 

180 mpg is really, really low. I know I'm only on Stg2, but even when I'm getting on it hard - I've found the mpg to have stayed up very close to what I was getting on the OEM motor setup when getting on it hard.

MsA - I sure hope it works out for you buddy - I'll be sending positive vibes your way man - please keep us up-to-date on how it all goes.

Hey guys - sorry if this is a dumb question - but what is the VTEC reference? I know it's a honda engine, but is it some sort of comparison to the power curve of a VTEC?

Thanks Guys!
-WoW

 

Well I checked all the wires and everything seemed just about right... connections are good and wires are supposed to go where they are supposed to...

Afterward I just looked around the engine bay to see if anything looks abnormal... Then I noticed that the tube (emissions tube I believe) that connects under the intake was completely disconnected. I went ahead and connected it but didn't have time to drive it. Think this could be the cause of the problem? I'm anxious to get home and try it now

 

Hope everything comes out for the good as i never had any problems with the exception of noisy belts.

 

Thanks for the positive vibes man... really appreciate it..

As for the VTEC reference I would say it has to do with the efficiency of the engine.... When driving around normally not all the engine is working while at high engine speeds (around/above 4500 rpm) everything opens up, thus increase in power... Its hard to explain but you can youtube to see some engine demonstrations. I guess this is how they come out with great mpg numbers and performance at the same time

 

^ Great news! Please let us know if fixing that tube corrected things.

I've got an issue now of my own. Let me break it down as to what happened and then what I'm experiencing so maybe some of the 'gurus' on here can help me out...if not, I'll just have to break down and take her to Sharif @ Forged Performance to see if a belt needs adjusting??

Scene:
Morning. On my way to work - running late. Had some stupid a-hole in a new honda accord of all things want to race me!?!?!? So I oblige and give it a go at the next light when it hit green. The car sling shot me down the road and I was hitting over 110mph by the time I hit 5th gear and was pushing her into 6th, but had to start slowing down immediately b/c I was on a road that is known for cops "hiding in wait"..... but, I was like "HOLY ****", when you really hammer this kit, it does perform pretty well!

Well anyways, the stupid 4-door accord took forever to catch up to me and I was having to slow down for a red light, but I could see from the other lights on the right of me that my light was just about to turn green - and here comes this dip hammering the accord to "wiz" by me. So, I had her in 2nd gear doing a slow roll and when the light hit green I smashed the gas to the floor and here's what happened:

1.) The car's "SLIP" light went bonkers (I had VDC on...probably a massive mistake on my part). The car feel flat on it's face - felt like the VDC was trying to kill the engine's RPM.

2.) I quickly took my foot off the pedal and pushed on the brake (for a solid stop) and put her into first and pressed the gas. I guess my RPM's were still jumping around, b/c I spun the tires some more (not much) and finally got the car rolling.

3.) Now - at this point, I'm completed EMBARRASSED (making myself to be a complete moron to even engage the silly dude in the accord). I keep the car moving for a few miles at a slow 45-50mph and then eventually had to come to a stop (if you live in Georgia and near powder springs, it was at the intersection of Powder Springs RD and the East/West Connector.) Anyways, all of a sudden I smell this IMMENSE rubber burning smell and had a thought that my engine bay might just catch on fire! - so I pulled over into a Kroger shopping center parking lot - stopped the engine and got out.

4.) I then popped the hood and saw everything was looking great? I checked over the main blower belt and the other belts and really couldn't visually see any problems - but the smell was horribly strong, so I smelled the rear tires and yeah, there was the smell - so I'm thinking it was just my rears burning off a layer of rubber by my dumb @ss. BUT....

Result:
Now each and everytime I drive her and I have the heater on, I smell nothing at all....UNTIL.....I sit at a traffic light or stop sign for several minutes and hear comes that burning rubber smell again. Now at this point (that I'm writing this post), it's been 4 solid DAYS since this happened and I'm STILL smelling burning rubber each and every time I run the HVAC.

What I *think* it could be:
I'm thinking that the main blower belt slipped a good bit when I slammed the gas while in 2nd gear that day and would expect to smell burning rubber from my rear tires (at the time) and the blower belt (at the time) - but WHY would I still be smelling it now. I tested to see if it was maybe the HVAC belts that got burnt up somehow and even though I have a hard time smelling it while in the cabin with the HVAC "OFF" sitting at a light or a stop sign, if I roll down my window, I can smell it and when I get home and have her in the garage I can smell it and can really smell it when putting my nose up to the driver side "seal" between the hood and the fender of the car.

I did pop the hood again the other night - dying to figure this out and smelled the blower belt right up to it and can barely smell the rubber smell, but not something so intense that I would smell it in the cabin, so it's a real mystery as to what's going on with her.

Please let me know your thoughts on this guys. Is my main blower belt "off" and needs to be re-aligned on the blower? Maybe it's rubbing on the blower's "lip" where the belt fits on....it has a slight lip - guessing so that the belt doesn't just come off.

Please help!

Thanks Guys!
-WoW

P.s. Weirdest thing about this experience is before this happened I had a low and slight "squeeking" from one of the belts or the blower or whatever and had read that can happen, but now I barely have it anymore. Maybe that's a sign that the main blower belt is slipping and not turning the blower as it should and thus the squeek is not continously present anymore?

IDEAS???

 

Man guys - it's dead in here.....echo,,,,,echo.....

I think the problem I was describing back in Feb was just a toasted clutch creating all that smell....

I'm thinking now of going to Stg4 for certain - probably sometime this fall.

All Stg4 guys - how much did STILLEN charge you for the kit?? They are asking $650 as of last week...

How much do you think is a fair labor charge for my shop to install the Stg4 kit?

Will I still be "legal" and pass my emissions w/ the Stg4 kit??? I'm in Georgia.

Did your fuel econ drop dramatically - I've ready mostly "about normal gas mileage w/ stg4"...but just want to re-ask to make certain...

Please let me know what y'all think...

Thanks Guys!
-WoW