All Stillen Supercharger Owners Report Here
With that all out of the way, I replaced all the belts (snorkel on the SC it's self being the most difficult - but a thin shafted screwdriver made it possible - I might do a write up on that process alone now that I think of it) AND in the process got my drivers side PCV valve hose reconnected. That step also took me some time as it's wedged up under the SC's intake so G'DAMN tightly with no space to work I was nearly beaten before it fiiiiinaly pushed on.
Let me know.
Thanks Guys!
-WoW
Been away for a couple of days - but I'll try to put together some pics for you of how I did it with the little screwdriver (for getting the snout belt on easier) sometime soonish.
It really did save me I think - the way I came up with to do it I mean - because that belt is TIGHT to get on even without the tensioner pulley even in place.
It really did save me I think - the way I came up with to do it I mean - because that belt is TIGHT to get on even without the tensioner pulley even in place.
Last edited by CLRH2O; Feb 28, 2012 at 10:44 AM.
So... the reason I haven't been back yet with all this is because since my last post I've replaced ANOTHER 3 pulleys and am still working toward the solution of this squeak / squeal. If I have to replace EVERY SINGLE PULLEY ON THE ENTIRE FRONT OF THE ENGINE then so frikkin BE IT - I !WILL! solve this.
Updates to come.
During this process I've gotten a ton of part numbers, pulley manufacturer data (Fenner Drives and Nissan parts), prices and all manner of ***** - so once all is said and done that info will also be posted here in a list format.
Updates to come.
During this process I've gotten a ton of part numbers, pulley manufacturer data (Fenner Drives and Nissan parts), prices and all manner of ***** - so once all is said and done that info will also be posted here in a list format.
What specifics bring you to ask? Are brackets known to create screeches, squeaks and sequels that people often confuse for Belt or Pulley Bearing noise?
And, which tensioner assembly would you be referring to? The one for the main accessory drive belt tensioner pulley on the Power Steering and Alternator belt, the one for the tensioner pulley on the AC belt, the one for the main supercharger drive belt (outer front of engine on a custom bracket), the lower (additional) black composite (non metallic) 'fenner drives' static location (non adjustable) pulley placed between the accessory main pulley and the power steering pulley.... or the supercharger snout belt tensioner located at the top on a bracket attached to the supercharger's baseplate? There are technically 5 in total with the Stillen Supercharger installed on the VQ35DE. In my case I've got the original design stage 1 Stillen SC setup, and although they've revised the location of the lower Fenner Drives (brand name) static composite tensioner pulley which sits between the main accessory belt pulley and the power steering pulley so that you don't have to use an aftermarket 060500 (500mm belt) in place of the stock length Nissan belt (as I do now because of this pulley's location) - it's pretty much the same as what Stillen sells now.
In specific, so far I've replaced the full bracket assembly of the Alternator / Power steering belt's - the whole assembly plate, tensioner bolt, spacers, protecting plates for front and rear of the pulley, cap nut and the revised 2 bearing pulley it's self. Other pulleys I've replaced are the two small 'Fenner Drives' composite material pulleys for the snout belt (first belt off of the supercharger it's self) and again the lower non adjustable one for the alternator / power steering belt. The top Fenner Drives pulley btw was worn down like an old skateboard wheel from the 80's if you'd power slid your board a lot. The wheel became conical, or wider on one side than the other. That's what happens to these composite material pulley's Stillen choose to use instead of METAL pulleys. :/ My pulley was literally of a smaller diameter on the backside than it was on the front so the belt wanted to *walk* off the pulley in that direction. Not only was the belt walking a problem but it was putting uneven tension on the inner bearing no doubt the cause of it's wear and noise.
As part of my process to find what's the cause I operate the engine without certain belts installed. And I'm only hearing the noise with the Power Steering / Alternator belt installed at this point. Originaly I used to hear it off the main snout belt AS WELL before replacing that little pulley there... so progress is being made, however slowly. At this point it might be incorrect belt tension. It could be the main bearing on the double wide pulley that comes from Stillen to transfer engine rotational drive to the supercharger for boost creation, the Power steering pulley it's self or the alternator pulley it's self (meaning in both of those last two cases - the hardware of each as the pulleys are attached to a shaft that goes into each through a bearing - and likely it's just easier and cost effective to replace the whole part in those two cases.... sigh)
*** A special note about these specific 'Fenner Drives' composite material pulleys that Stillen choose to use: Those are 48 bucks each from Stillen direct and unfortunately NO you cant buy them from FENNER DRIVES because they actually don't have them. I addition to this, although hey use fairly standard NTN 6301 bearings, you cant remove them from the pulley assembly because (as it's composite) they are MOLDED INTO THE PULLEY IT'S SELF WITH HEAT WELDING... and by removing the bearing, you break the pulley. Done deal Here's the 411 on all that:
After talking to everyone (likely) in the entire engineering department and many more in the order fulfillment department at the main USA / Pennsylvania Fenner office, it's been determined that Fenner Drives was tasked to custom design and manufacture a limited run of those composite pulleys for Stillen on special order for when Stillen was designing the kit for sale in the mid 2000's. And when Stillen runs out of stock of those parts... that's it - they are GONE! The only way to get a replacement at that point will be to get Fenner to do another manufacturing run at IMMENSE expense.... which I doubt they(STillen or any of the rest of us) would do tbh. Or both they (Stillen), and by proxy us, would have to source a viable replacement part from another vendor... which I currently have yet to find... and trust me, I'm good at finding things like this.
And, which tensioner assembly would you be referring to? The one for the main accessory drive belt tensioner pulley on the Power Steering and Alternator belt, the one for the tensioner pulley on the AC belt, the one for the main supercharger drive belt (outer front of engine on a custom bracket), the lower (additional) black composite (non metallic) 'fenner drives' static location (non adjustable) pulley placed between the accessory main pulley and the power steering pulley.... or the supercharger snout belt tensioner located at the top on a bracket attached to the supercharger's baseplate? There are technically 5 in total with the Stillen Supercharger installed on the VQ35DE. In my case I've got the original design stage 1 Stillen SC setup, and although they've revised the location of the lower Fenner Drives (brand name) static composite tensioner pulley which sits between the main accessory belt pulley and the power steering pulley so that you don't have to use an aftermarket 060500 (500mm belt) in place of the stock length Nissan belt (as I do now because of this pulley's location) - it's pretty much the same as what Stillen sells now.
In specific, so far I've replaced the full bracket assembly of the Alternator / Power steering belt's - the whole assembly plate, tensioner bolt, spacers, protecting plates for front and rear of the pulley, cap nut and the revised 2 bearing pulley it's self. Other pulleys I've replaced are the two small 'Fenner Drives' composite material pulleys for the snout belt (first belt off of the supercharger it's self) and again the lower non adjustable one for the alternator / power steering belt. The top Fenner Drives pulley btw was worn down like an old skateboard wheel from the 80's if you'd power slid your board a lot. The wheel became conical, or wider on one side than the other. That's what happens to these composite material pulley's Stillen choose to use instead of METAL pulleys. :/ My pulley was literally of a smaller diameter on the backside than it was on the front so the belt wanted to *walk* off the pulley in that direction. Not only was the belt walking a problem but it was putting uneven tension on the inner bearing no doubt the cause of it's wear and noise.
As part of my process to find what's the cause I operate the engine without certain belts installed. And I'm only hearing the noise with the Power Steering / Alternator belt installed at this point. Originaly I used to hear it off the main snout belt AS WELL before replacing that little pulley there... so progress is being made, however slowly. At this point it might be incorrect belt tension. It could be the main bearing on the double wide pulley that comes from Stillen to transfer engine rotational drive to the supercharger for boost creation, the Power steering pulley it's self or the alternator pulley it's self (meaning in both of those last two cases - the hardware of each as the pulleys are attached to a shaft that goes into each through a bearing - and likely it's just easier and cost effective to replace the whole part in those two cases.... sigh)
*** A special note about these specific 'Fenner Drives' composite material pulleys that Stillen choose to use: Those are 48 bucks each from Stillen direct and unfortunately NO you cant buy them from FENNER DRIVES because they actually don't have them. I addition to this, although hey use fairly standard NTN 6301 bearings, you cant remove them from the pulley assembly because (as it's composite) they are MOLDED INTO THE PULLEY IT'S SELF WITH HEAT WELDING... and by removing the bearing, you break the pulley. Done deal Here's the 411 on all that:
After talking to everyone (likely) in the entire engineering department and many more in the order fulfillment department at the main USA / Pennsylvania Fenner office, it's been determined that Fenner Drives was tasked to custom design and manufacture a limited run of those composite pulleys for Stillen on special order for when Stillen was designing the kit for sale in the mid 2000's. And when Stillen runs out of stock of those parts... that's it - they are GONE! The only way to get a replacement at that point will be to get Fenner to do another manufacturing run at IMMENSE expense.... which I doubt they(STillen or any of the rest of us) would do tbh. Or both they (Stillen), and by proxy us, would have to source a viable replacement part from another vendor... which I currently have yet to find... and trust me, I'm good at finding things like this.
Last edited by CLRH2O; Mar 1, 2012 at 05:31 PM.
Fellow Stillen owners. I have solved the problem.. finally.
To clarify my personal situation - I had a mixture of parts all causing noises. Although I've also replaced 4 pulleys for varying reasons - they are not the core of the issue I'm on this thread talking about. And below is the solution.... finally.
Here we go, the squeal, the main one. The infuriating one. And no doubt the one that ALLLLLL other Gen 1 Stillen Supercharger owners have likely fought, or are still fighting to this day, is belt squeal. Specifically the Power Steering and Alternator Belt.
On the Stillen Supercharger kit setup, an additional lower 1.8" 'Fenner Drives' tensioner pulley is installed between the main accessory drive pulley (the one that's replaced with a double wide to accommodate the main supercharger drive belt) and the power steering pulley. The addition of this pulley required that the belt length be extended with the use of an aftermarket belt. Stillen supplies that belt with the kit and as a replacement part purchase item. It is a Gates brand Micro V-AT belt. Specifically the 060500 (6 rib, 500mm length).
This belt is the problem.
Now, Gates makes some of the best belts. We all agree on that. But regardless of this fact, and NO MATTER HOW you tension the this belt, you will always - in some manner get belt squeal. Be it eventually a few weeks or months down the line (for only the very lucky few) or right away (for just about everyone else) in both cold and hot scenarios regardless of tension adjustment.
The problem is related to the composition of the flat side surface material. It is rubber.
And here's the rub.
Stillen has changed the location of the that lower 'Fenner Drives' 1.8" pulley in later revisions of the kit's production. New kits allow you to use the OEM belt of the original length (I think it's a 480mm belt? I'll have to go look again) manufactured and sold by Nissan. AND THIS IS THE KEY.
It might sound silly, I know - and even I glazed over all the misc comments posted up on this forum and others with one responses like "are you sure you're using the NISSAN brand belt"... because obviously that wasn't an option for most of us. WE HAD to have a longer length belt.
And that's when it hit me.
Stillen changed THEIR KIT to facilitate the use of the OEM Nissan belt. Why do that?
Here is why:
The Nissan belt's outer surface material is CLOTH! It's a treated cloth mesh build that eliminates squeal suffered by RUBBER topped belts.
So, for old manufacturing run Stillen Supercharger kit owners, temporarily you can install the stock Nissan belt on your car simply ignoring that lower 1.8" pulley completely - and when you get the extra money contact Stillen and purchase the updated pulley assembly (it's the one that replaces the timing cover on the passenger side - the black convex thing there).
Currently I'm running this way with the supercharger still functioning. I'm sure under some hard acceleration settings there might be some boost slip because not as much of the belt is being pressed against the accessory drive double wide pulley which is what gives drive power to the supercharger main belt. But under everyday driving and (for me at least) up to around 5lbs of boost I've seen no issues or slippage what so ever.
That my friends - is that.
To clarify my personal situation - I had a mixture of parts all causing noises. Although I've also replaced 4 pulleys for varying reasons - they are not the core of the issue I'm on this thread talking about. And below is the solution.... finally.
Here we go, the squeal, the main one. The infuriating one. And no doubt the one that ALLLLLL other Gen 1 Stillen Supercharger owners have likely fought, or are still fighting to this day, is belt squeal. Specifically the Power Steering and Alternator Belt.
On the Stillen Supercharger kit setup, an additional lower 1.8" 'Fenner Drives' tensioner pulley is installed between the main accessory drive pulley (the one that's replaced with a double wide to accommodate the main supercharger drive belt) and the power steering pulley. The addition of this pulley required that the belt length be extended with the use of an aftermarket belt. Stillen supplies that belt with the kit and as a replacement part purchase item. It is a Gates brand Micro V-AT belt. Specifically the 060500 (6 rib, 500mm length).
This belt is the problem.
Now, Gates makes some of the best belts. We all agree on that. But regardless of this fact, and NO MATTER HOW you tension the this belt, you will always - in some manner get belt squeal. Be it eventually a few weeks or months down the line (for only the very lucky few) or right away (for just about everyone else) in both cold and hot scenarios regardless of tension adjustment.
The problem is related to the composition of the flat side surface material. It is rubber.
And here's the rub.
Stillen has changed the location of the that lower 'Fenner Drives' 1.8" pulley in later revisions of the kit's production. New kits allow you to use the OEM belt of the original length (I think it's a 480mm belt? I'll have to go look again) manufactured and sold by Nissan. AND THIS IS THE KEY.
It might sound silly, I know - and even I glazed over all the misc comments posted up on this forum and others with one responses like "are you sure you're using the NISSAN brand belt"... because obviously that wasn't an option for most of us. WE HAD to have a longer length belt.
And that's when it hit me.
Stillen changed THEIR KIT to facilitate the use of the OEM Nissan belt. Why do that?
Here is why:
The Nissan belt's outer surface material is CLOTH! It's a treated cloth mesh build that eliminates squeal suffered by RUBBER topped belts.
So, for old manufacturing run Stillen Supercharger kit owners, temporarily you can install the stock Nissan belt on your car simply ignoring that lower 1.8" pulley completely - and when you get the extra money contact Stillen and purchase the updated pulley assembly (it's the one that replaces the timing cover on the passenger side - the black convex thing there).
Currently I'm running this way with the supercharger still functioning. I'm sure under some hard acceleration settings there might be some boost slip because not as much of the belt is being pressed against the accessory drive double wide pulley which is what gives drive power to the supercharger main belt. But under everyday driving and (for me at least) up to around 5lbs of boost I've seen no issues or slippage what so ever.
That my friends - is that.
WOW (no not my name, but the expression, WOW!) - Great write up man!
Now...I have no idea if I have the old or the new - could you post up some pics of your engine bay by chance?
I have the pulley that goes over the Timing Chain Cover - it's black - so assuming that I have the "newer" version. I still have squeals though, nothing bad -hardly noticeable at a stop - and not noticeable at all while driving and I'm assuming yours was horrible both at a stand still and while driving the car around?
Thanks Guys!
-WoW
Now...I have no idea if I have the old or the new - could you post up some pics of your engine bay by chance?
I have the pulley that goes over the Timing Chain Cover - it's black - so assuming that I have the "newer" version. I still have squeals though, nothing bad -hardly noticeable at a stop - and not noticeable at all while driving and I'm assuming yours was horrible both at a stand still and while driving the car around?
Thanks Guys!
-WoW
Yes, mine was probably the most extreme squeal a car can make - and occurred VERY loudly during start up, when cold, when hot, at idle, under acceleration.... basically at all times just screechy horribleness.
But no more.
As for yourself - the very first thing to check can be done visually and wit your fingers. Get right up on that belt and see if it's a Nissan OEM belt with a smoothed but obviously cloth weave flat/top side. If your belt is rubber and/or if it's greasy then you will get noise. (ever had belt dressing applied? if so the belt is pretty much trash now)
I've created the below image from a pic of my own engine to help show you what changed between revisions.
But no more.
As for yourself - the very first thing to check can be done visually and wit your fingers. Get right up on that belt and see if it's a Nissan OEM belt with a smoothed but obviously cloth weave flat/top side. If your belt is rubber and/or if it's greasy then you will get noise. (ever had belt dressing applied? if so the belt is pretty much trash now)
I've created the below image from a pic of my own engine to help show you what changed between revisions.
Last edited by CLRH2O; Mar 6, 2012 at 05:38 PM.
^ Ok, mine is the newer version where the black cover over the timing chain tensioner access - holds the pulley.
That's cool. Now I just need a DIY to replace the SC belts. A local tuner shop wants to charge me $100 to replace just ONE belt - the one on the noise of the SC....WTF???
I heard you just cut off the old one, and have to work really hard to get the new one on - using a crowbar and flat head screw driver - but I'll just end up screwing something up if I don't have a good DIY with pics.
Plus, once you get the new upper and lower SC belts on - what to you "torque" the tensioner to (the small green faced pulley next to the noise of the blower)??? I see in your pic that yours doesn't have a green face....wonder what that means? I'm running a Stage II setup - you? Stage I maybe?
Thanks Guys!
-WoW
That's cool. Now I just need a DIY to replace the SC belts. A local tuner shop wants to charge me $100 to replace just ONE belt - the one on the noise of the SC....WTF???
I heard you just cut off the old one, and have to work really hard to get the new one on - using a crowbar and flat head screw driver - but I'll just end up screwing something up if I don't have a good DIY with pics.
Plus, once you get the new upper and lower SC belts on - what to you "torque" the tensioner to (the small green faced pulley next to the noise of the blower)??? I see in your pic that yours doesn't have a green face....wonder what that means? I'm running a Stage II setup - you? Stage I maybe?
Thanks Guys!
-WoW
Yes, my system is a Stage 1... An OLD one (2006)
As for the pulley face colors - if you're talking about the tensioner pulley and NOT the actual snout pulley (off the end of the blower it's self) then I'd venture to guess it's just an alternative brand. And if that IS the case, I want to know what you've got on there! n____n Because if there are readily available alternatives to the composite material (which I really think should be metal and not a hardened plastic) pulley's Stillen charges $48 a pop for - that would be good to know about.
As for replacing the belts - it's a piece of **** man. Seriously. Even the harder of the two isn't all that tough if you have a small screwdriver. You know those little ones that come in like PC repair tool kits? Say about 4 inches long on the driver shaft and about 2 maybe 3/16th thick for the shaft diameter. Just one of those cheapy little screwdrivers is all you need. And to get the belt off, you can pull it off with your hands. In fact I'd hate to cut it off myself because I always like the idea of having a backup belt sitting in the trunk for emergencies. Think about it - that belt may need to be replaced for a newer less used one... but is it technically still working? If so, why not have it as a back up in case of some freak instance that shreds your new one.
Granted these are superchargers were talking about and FAR from must have items on our engines. So, to cut off or not is entirely user discretion. I'm just the type that likes backups
SNOUT BELT:
Loosen the retaining bolt on the front of the tensioner pulley it'self. Then, begin to unscrew the tensioner adjustment bolt to let the belt loose. Once you can move things by hand, pull the pulley away from the belt (to the left) with one hand while spinning the adjustment screw with the other until it's at the very furthest position to the left/passenger side of the mounting brackets slide area. Now that the belt is at maximum slack, simply grab it with your hands and work the belt toward you pulling and wiggling so as to get the grooves to pop over the side wall of the snout pulley until loose.
If your setup has a snout pulley with a very tall side wall, or possibly the 6 rib belt conversion (which it might as you're sounds newer than mine) it's *possible* that this is more difficult to do by hand you will actually use the little screw driver I'll be talking about below in a reverse fashion to walk the belt off the pulley.
****
Ack - work emergency - you'll have to wait on me to return for the rest.
As for the pulley face colors - if you're talking about the tensioner pulley and NOT the actual snout pulley (off the end of the blower it's self) then I'd venture to guess it's just an alternative brand. And if that IS the case, I want to know what you've got on there! n____n Because if there are readily available alternatives to the composite material (which I really think should be metal and not a hardened plastic) pulley's Stillen charges $48 a pop for - that would be good to know about.
As for replacing the belts - it's a piece of **** man. Seriously. Even the harder of the two isn't all that tough if you have a small screwdriver. You know those little ones that come in like PC repair tool kits? Say about 4 inches long on the driver shaft and about 2 maybe 3/16th thick for the shaft diameter. Just one of those cheapy little screwdrivers is all you need. And to get the belt off, you can pull it off with your hands. In fact I'd hate to cut it off myself because I always like the idea of having a backup belt sitting in the trunk for emergencies. Think about it - that belt may need to be replaced for a newer less used one... but is it technically still working? If so, why not have it as a back up in case of some freak instance that shreds your new one.
Granted these are superchargers were talking about and FAR from must have items on our engines. So, to cut off or not is entirely user discretion. I'm just the type that likes backups
SNOUT BELT:
Loosen the retaining bolt on the front of the tensioner pulley it'self. Then, begin to unscrew the tensioner adjustment bolt to let the belt loose. Once you can move things by hand, pull the pulley away from the belt (to the left) with one hand while spinning the adjustment screw with the other until it's at the very furthest position to the left/passenger side of the mounting brackets slide area. Now that the belt is at maximum slack, simply grab it with your hands and work the belt toward you pulling and wiggling so as to get the grooves to pop over the side wall of the snout pulley until loose.
If your setup has a snout pulley with a very tall side wall, or possibly the 6 rib belt conversion (which it might as you're sounds newer than mine) it's *possible* that this is more difficult to do by hand you will actually use the little screw driver I'll be talking about below in a reverse fashion to walk the belt off the pulley.
****
Ack - work emergency - you'll have to wait on me to return for the rest.
Last edited by CLRH2O; Mar 7, 2012 at 03:14 PM.
Great little write up man!
I'll take some pictures here in a bit to show you my setup and to see if I can "depcit" what you are saying I can do to get the belts off an replace and you can review and let me know if I'm on the right track or way off....I'll post those up in a bit!!
I'm only running what Stillen provided in the kit. I'm running a Stg 2 (which from my understanding is only diff from Stg 1 b/c it incorporates a intercooler and that's it). Stg 3 only changes from Stg 2 with ONE pulley - and most say that's a waste of money. Stg 4 only is different from Stg 2 and 3 b/c of a larger fuel pump and an added 7th injector along with the Stg 3 upgraded pulley...I *think*.....
So basically...my pulley (which I refer to as the "tensioner pulley" has a green face and it's the smaller one that presses up against the SNOUT blower belt.
About the belt - I don't mind cutting it off - it's two years old and needs replacing. I can tell b/c the belt is slipping under medium force, where before it could handle whatever I threw at it. If the new belt shreds, I can drive it without boost without hurting the engine or anything - so I can always just wait and replace it whenever I get around to ordering yet another....you know?
I'll take pics - pics are worth a thousand words - LOL
Thanks man!
I'll take some pictures here in a bit to show you my setup and to see if I can "depcit" what you are saying I can do to get the belts off an replace and you can review and let me know if I'm on the right track or way off....I'll post those up in a bit!!
I'm only running what Stillen provided in the kit. I'm running a Stg 2 (which from my understanding is only diff from Stg 1 b/c it incorporates a intercooler and that's it). Stg 3 only changes from Stg 2 with ONE pulley - and most say that's a waste of money. Stg 4 only is different from Stg 2 and 3 b/c of a larger fuel pump and an added 7th injector along with the Stg 3 upgraded pulley...I *think*.....
So basically...my pulley (which I refer to as the "tensioner pulley" has a green face and it's the smaller one that presses up against the SNOUT blower belt.
About the belt - I don't mind cutting it off - it's two years old and needs replacing. I can tell b/c the belt is slipping under medium force, where before it could handle whatever I threw at it. If the new belt shreds, I can drive it without boost without hurting the engine or anything - so I can always just wait and replace it whenever I get around to ordering yet another....you know?
I'll take pics - pics are worth a thousand words - LOL
Thanks man!
Yes, my system is a Stage 1... An OLD one (2006)
As for the pulley face colors - if you're talking about the tensioner pulley and NOT the actual snout pulley (off the end of the blower it's self) then I'd venture to guess it's just an alternative brand. And if that IS the case, I want to know what you've got on there! n____n Because if there are readily available alternatives to the composite material (which I really think should be metal and not a hardened plastic) pulley's Stillen charges $48 a pop for - that would be good to know about.
As for replacing the belts - it's a piece of **** man. Seriously. Even the harder of the two isn't all that tough if you have a small screwdriver. You know those little ones that come in like PC repair tool kits? Say about 4 inches long on the driver shaft and about 2 maybe 3/16th thick for the shaft diameter. Just one of those cheapy little screwdrivers is all you need. And to get the belt off, you can pull it off with your hands. In fact I'd hate to cut it off myself because I always like the idea of having a backup belt sitting in the trunk for emergencies. Think about it - that belt may need to be replaced for a newer less used one... but is it technically still working? If so, why not have it as a back up in case of some freak instance that shreds your new one.
Granted these are superchargers were talking about and FAR from must have items on our engines. So, to cut off or not is entirely user discretion. I'm just the type that likes backups
SNOUT BELT:
Loosen the retaining bolt on the front of the tensioner pulley it'self. Then, begin to unscrew the tensioner adjustment bolt to let the belt loose. Once you can move things by hand, pull the pulley away from the belt (to the left) with one hand while spinning the adjustment screw with the other until it's at the very furthest position to the left/passenger side of the mounting brackets slide area. Now that the belt is at maximum slack, simply grab it with your hands and work the belt toward you pulling and wiggling so as to get the grooves to pop over the side wall of the snout pulley until loose.
If your setup has a snout pulley with a very tall side wall, or possibly the 6 rib belt conversion (which it might as you're sounds newer than mine) it's *possible* that this is more difficult to do by hand you will actually use the little screw driver I'll be talking about below in a reverse fashion to walk the belt off the pulley.
****
Ack - work emergency - you'll have to wait on me to return for the rest.
As for the pulley face colors - if you're talking about the tensioner pulley and NOT the actual snout pulley (off the end of the blower it's self) then I'd venture to guess it's just an alternative brand. And if that IS the case, I want to know what you've got on there! n____n Because if there are readily available alternatives to the composite material (which I really think should be metal and not a hardened plastic) pulley's Stillen charges $48 a pop for - that would be good to know about.
As for replacing the belts - it's a piece of **** man. Seriously. Even the harder of the two isn't all that tough if you have a small screwdriver. You know those little ones that come in like PC repair tool kits? Say about 4 inches long on the driver shaft and about 2 maybe 3/16th thick for the shaft diameter. Just one of those cheapy little screwdrivers is all you need. And to get the belt off, you can pull it off with your hands. In fact I'd hate to cut it off myself because I always like the idea of having a backup belt sitting in the trunk for emergencies. Think about it - that belt may need to be replaced for a newer less used one... but is it technically still working? If so, why not have it as a back up in case of some freak instance that shreds your new one.
Granted these are superchargers were talking about and FAR from must have items on our engines. So, to cut off or not is entirely user discretion. I'm just the type that likes backups
SNOUT BELT:
Loosen the retaining bolt on the front of the tensioner pulley it'self. Then, begin to unscrew the tensioner adjustment bolt to let the belt loose. Once you can move things by hand, pull the pulley away from the belt (to the left) with one hand while spinning the adjustment screw with the other until it's at the very furthest position to the left/passenger side of the mounting brackets slide area. Now that the belt is at maximum slack, simply grab it with your hands and work the belt toward you pulling and wiggling so as to get the grooves to pop over the side wall of the snout pulley until loose.
If your setup has a snout pulley with a very tall side wall, or possibly the 6 rib belt conversion (which it might as you're sounds newer than mine) it's *possible* that this is more difficult to do by hand you will actually use the little screw driver I'll be talking about below in a reverse fashion to walk the belt off the pulley.
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Ack - work emergency - you'll have to wait on me to return for the rest.
Last edited by WhiteonWheat; Mar 8, 2012 at 04:31 PM.
I have returned. And here's the tut on how to replace that Snout Belt yourself:
That's pretty much it - hopefully no one is having trouble seeing that image.
Also, in relation to the fix for the squealing belt issue I solved. It's 100% to do with the composition of the belts top material on these cars. Rubber is a NO GO - and the OEM belts aren't long enough to use with the Stillen tensioner pulley from a GEN1 kit like I have (GEN 2 kits will work though). So what I've done for the time being is a simple pulley bypass as shown here:
That's pretty much it - hopefully no one is having trouble seeing that image.
Also, in relation to the fix for the squealing belt issue I solved. It's 100% to do with the composition of the belts top material on these cars. Rubber is a NO GO - and the OEM belts aren't long enough to use with the Stillen tensioner pulley from a GEN1 kit like I have (GEN 2 kits will work though). So what I've done for the time being is a simple pulley bypass as shown here:
While my update is not performance related, it might shine some light on those tired of that bumpy hood.
I took the dive and went and bought the CF VIS Slayer hood from BAUSauto, with hopes that it would fit the blower. I figured if *ICE* could fit the Hikkata Dori hood, why not the Slayer hood.
Lo and behold, the hood fits like a glove, with out a single point of contact with the blower. I chalked the whole blower on all its edges and it has no points of contact at all. The only "mod" i needed to do was lift the clamping mechanism for the hood about half an inch, made the hood close a lot easier like that.
Here is a picture for yall to see.
I took the dive and went and bought the CF VIS Slayer hood from BAUSauto, with hopes that it would fit the blower. I figured if *ICE* could fit the Hikkata Dori hood, why not the Slayer hood.
Lo and behold, the hood fits like a glove, with out a single point of contact with the blower. I chalked the whole blower on all its edges and it has no points of contact at all. The only "mod" i needed to do was lift the clamping mechanism for the hood about half an inch, made the hood close a lot easier like that.
Here is a picture for yall to see.
Nice one man!
What did the hood cost you after tax and shipping? Install it yourself? Anything to note about the install if you did do it yourself.. there's always *something* that comes up during a mod which needs some creative solution I've found - maybe the hood latch modification was that one thing?
And how is the rear corner alignment with the OEM body paneling? I've noticed that with my Stillen FG hood, it's corners sit ever so slightly higher than the stock fenders and it's always bugged me just that little bit when i see it.
What did the hood cost you after tax and shipping? Install it yourself? Anything to note about the install if you did do it yourself.. there's always *something* that comes up during a mod which needs some creative solution I've found - maybe the hood latch modification was that one thing?
And how is the rear corner alignment with the OEM body paneling? I've noticed that with my Stillen FG hood, it's corners sit ever so slightly higher than the stock fenders and it's always bugged me just that little bit when i see it.