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Gonna depend on the shop and materials used. Best way to get an accurate quote my guy, otherwise it'll be all over the place. I got quotes from 2.5k all the way to 5k
$2500 and up? Where are you located? Those are crazy high prices.
04 6mt Coupe - motordyne 5/16 ART pipes TDX2; KWv2; Hotchkiss; custom seats.
Hi, I am the chick who said I wasn't going to mod this car a few months ago....
So right after I said that, I picked up some previously loved ART Pipes for my 04 DE a few months ago and then happened upon a price for a used tdx2 shockwave exhaust that made pull the trigger. So I spent last Friday getting everything installed. Somewhere there is a video of me giggling like a schoolgirl on startup....
Been acting like a loud jerk around town ever since, and my punishment for downshifting in every underpass is that my SES light came on with error P1273/P1283 - both bank1 sensors showing lean errors. I reset twice and did the relearn pedal dances, but it comes back, usually when cruising in ninja mode (granny shifting) in traffic.
I am going to go over my intake (ztube with kn and 07 airbox) and clean MAF and TB tomorrow. I will probably put her on jack stands and just go over all the clamps and the bolts on the ART Pipes as well. I have a plenum spacer on the way, but no other mods installed. Would rather resolve this before I install the spacer.
Anything else I should look at? I searched around and I know I need a tune to see any improvements, but I shouldn't be lean from these pretty basic bolt ons, right?
If you have quite a few miles on the injectors then yes you CAN get a lean code from bolt-ons. When they are a little clogged the ECU has to compensate even more to maintain fuel mix and the next thing you know it's greater than +25% and you have a code.
I'd start with a obd2 scanner to check long term fuel trim to see exactly how much extra fuel it's putting in.
Hi, I am the chick who said I wasn't going to mod this car a few months ago....
So right after I said that, I picked up some previously loved ART Pipes for my 04 DE a few months ago and then happened upon a price for a used tdx2 shockwave exhaust that made pull the trigger. So I spent last Friday getting everything installed. Somewhere there is a video of me giggling like a schoolgirl on startup....
Been acting like a loud jerk around town ever since, and my punishment for downshifting in every underpass is that my SES light came on with error P1273/P1283 - both bank1 sensors showing lean errors. I reset twice and did the relearn pedal dances, but it comes back, usually when cruising in ninja mode (granny shifting) in traffic.
I am going to go over my intake (ztube with kn and 07 airbox) and clean MAF and TB tomorrow. I will probably put her on jack stands and just go over all the clamps and the bolts on the ART Pipes as well. I have a plenum spacer on the way, but no other mods installed. Would rather resolve this before I install the spacer.
Anything else I should look at? I searched around and I know I need a tune to see any improvements, but I shouldn't be lean from these pretty basic bolt ons, right?
Could be the test pipes interacting with the o2 sensors or one of the o2 sensors are jacked. Drop one?
No problems before install than the problem probably lies with the install.
04 6mt Coupe - motordyne 5/16 ART pipes TDX2; KWv2; Hotchkiss; custom seats.
Car is at 73k.
When i got the car in december, i ran a tank with seafoam, seafoamed intake, and have done about 5k miles since and prior to install of exhaust. I ran 3k with tube, revised airbox, and k&n filter. I use odb2 scanner to log and read codes, and haven't had any codes until install. I am guessing something is loose on art pipes, which I will see tomorrow. I did remove and clean deposits from the downstream o2 sensors during exhaust install. Didn't touch the upstream ones. All four are showing a voltage range that looks normal, but I probably need to look that up.
I set up my torque app to show and log long term fuel trim. Not sure what to expect to see for healthy, as I wasn't logging prior, but nowhere near 25%. After warm up in driveway I was seeing 1 to 3 % @ idle and 6 to 8% @ 2500. Didn't make it to actually log anything rolling tonight. I haven't noticed much change in fuel econ, except a heavier foot.
hoping for good weather tomorrow to dive in... Didn't take too many of install. Yes, I know i need to take care of that diff bearing. Waiting for cooler weather in FL.
Car is at 73k.
When i got the car in december, i ran a tank with seafoam, seafoamed intake, and have done about 5k miles since and prior to install of exhaust. I ran 3k with tube, revised airbox, and k&n filter. I use odb2 scanner to log and read codes, and haven't had any codes until install. I am guessing something is loose on art pipes, which I will see tomorrow. I did remove and clean deposits from the downstream o2 sensors during exhaust install. Didn't touch the upstream ones. All four are showing a voltage range that looks normal, but I probably need to look that up.
I set up my torque app to show and log long term fuel trim. Not sure what to expect to see for healthy, as I wasn't logging prior, but nowhere near 25%. After warm up in driveway I was seeing 1 to 3 % @ idle and 6 to 8% @ 2500. Didn't make it to actually log anything rolling tonight. I haven't noticed much change in fuel econ, except a heavier foot.
If you used ANY cleaner on the O2 sensors they're probably screwed, the only "cleaning" you can do is to LIGHTLY brush deposits off the end if you see accumulation and to soak the part that goes into the header in a small container of gasoline for half a day, make sure to LIGHTLY swirl it around a bit in the gas every few hours to sediment can "fall out". Next you have to set them out to dry for another half a day.
It's usually easier to just replace them since an O2 sensor typically lasts 75k-100k miles before they stop cycling properly 100% of the time.
If you used ANY cleaner on the O2 sensors they're probably screwed, the only "cleaning" you can do is to LIGHTLY brush deposits off the end if you see accumulation and to soak the part that goes into the header in a small container of gasoline for half a day, make sure to LIGHTLY swirl it around a bit in the gas every few hours to sediment can "fall out". Next you have to set them out to dry for another half a day.
It's usually easier to just replace them since an O2 sensor typically lasts 75k-100k miles before they stop cycling properly 100% of the time.
Yeah, I agree with this. Most likely 80k or less. Plugs are supposedly good for 100k which is pure . Those things looked like **** at around 85k. Gaps were all off, some in the high 50's(!) and they were roached, with their entire existence in a bone stock stock FX that only saw shell or mobil 93 octane and synthetic oil. Replaced'em with ngk iridium and got a power and mileage increase right afterward. NGK's gaps were each off a bit as well but I corrected that
I'm not an oem sensor snob BUT the o2's really should be replaced with oem as I understand it. Replaced only my upstream around 85k while installing the kinetix hf cats & paid around $350 for both sensors.
Last edited by onevq35de; Sep 29, 2018 at 01:22 PM.
Just got done doing the Idler pulley delete and changed belts. Nice and simple job.
Thinking about dropping the transmission myself and changing the clutch and throw out bearing. Clutch chatter has been almost unbearable. Will a new throw out bearing help this?
And do you guys think dropping the transmission is a doable job for a novice mechanic.