I installed Megan Racing anti-roll bars recently, along with new end links. They have two holes, so I started with the soft setting front/rear, then went to the stiff setting front/rear. So far I really like the stiff setting.

 

Honestly, i drove the car for about 40 miles today, with cleaning the throttle body, removing the resonator in the exhaust and adding the Injen CAI the car seems to have smoother acceleration, it idles better and I do not feel any loss in power. My friend put the car on his scanner and did a relearn on the TB and checked everything else out and all looks good. I plan on ordering plenum spacer soon and once i get the plenum off, cleaned and spacer installed I will be taking it to the tuner to get everything right on it. What little changes I am making on the car right now is temporary anyway, the car will be getting a major overhaul starting in about mid February.

 

Not trying to beat up your G. I know from experience with 0-60 second proof that a long pipe and big bends kill acceleration, regardless of the pipe's diameter which is a whole other bag of chips. You'll be better off attaching the filter to the maf housing, hot engine bay air be damned.

 

I didn't take it that way. Hot engine bay air was my concern as to why i didn't buy the short ram, I can however order the short ram section for the intake from Injen if I want to change it. Seeing as if my G has over 200k on the clock it has lost some power along the way anyway so if it does loose 1/2 a second in 0-60 times right now with what i did to it it doesn't bother me, I'm just excited to get moved on to my new property soon so I can get the car situated in my new shop and get started taking out the engine and going through it!

Speaking of that desert heat coming from the engine bay, short of a vented hood, what is a good way to try and eliminate some of it?

 

New property, new shop and soon to be new engine. You gotta a lot going on. Sounds like fun.
You or a shop is gonna have to make a sealed air box, something that allows only air from outside the bay to enter the filter. PITA.

 

New property, new shop and soon to be new engine. You gotta a lot going on. Sounds like fun.
You or a shop is gonna have to make a sealed air box, something that allows only air from outside the bay to enter the filter. PITA.
BTW, love the G in white. Best color for that car imo.

 

Not as much fun as one would think.... I really do not like moving, like at all! but once I get moved I'll be settled in for good I hope!
I thought about taking some metal sheeting and trying to design something in regards to a housing around the filter to block out anything but outside air, seeing that the new intake basically has the filter sitting on the ground I figure it should be drawing in cooler air than what is actually inside the bay...

 

I really like the white on the G also. I plan to change the paint from the original factory color and go whiter with it, the factory paint on it with the pearl I don't really like because to me it just doesn't pop to me, but if it was cut and buffed it may look a lot better. I gotta have the window tint taken off and new put back on it, both driver and passenger windows are peeling for whatever reason and its driving me nuts... I'm also gonna go back with 20% all around.

 

It'll be getting cooler air down there but still some from the bay. Also, you'll probably have, like I had, a negative pressure situation due to filter location. I think you and I were chatting back and forth about this stuff? I get a fair amount of ?'s from this and 2 other forums and I lose track. Sorry bout that.
If you're planning on staying naturally aspirated with or without n2o, you're gonna wanna get away from the injen and go with as short and as fat an intake pipe as space will allow. If you're crafty and got skills cutting and a little welding, I've got an idea that will give the very best of both the cold air and short ram worlds along with reducing the nasty bend in the upper plenums neck by 50% which all considered, will make a big difference in performance.

 

Oh man, I love the pearl. Guess that's where we part ways.
Take some time with a dual action polisher and maybe you'll change your mind.

 

Once the engine is built it will be a forced induction car so the intake that i have on it now I'll sell off to some local yahoo or slap it on Ebay. After the plenum spacer mod and getting it tuned properly I won't be spending any more money on it until I start tearing it down and ordering engine internals and good performance parts that I want, of course I am gonna have to do a lot of research to find the correct combination of parts to yield the most HP I can get out of it.

 

HAHA! The car was repainted about 7 years ago from the previous owner wrecking it, I am not certain the entire car was repainted but I know the rear bumper, trunk, wing and rear quarters were, and the previous owner didn't care for the paint on it from the time it left the body shop to the day I bought it. The body needs some work and I plan to order a body kit for it next year as well, who knows, I may just keep the factory paint code just to lessen the wallet hit when it goes to the body shop..

 

Honestly since you're planning a complete rebuild of the motor in February I wouldn't do any more mods to the engine right now you won't need when you go FI. The gains wouldn't be worth the time and money and you'll need a tune again after the motor's built. But, that's JMHO.

 

Very nice. Old bird. My VFR800 is in the shop for a Valve Adjustment and winter storage RIP.

 

Why you...

Oh... it's repainted an odd shade of white I see lol.

He's right. Don't waste money on wasteful mods in the meantime. Get ones like exhaust that work for both NA and Turbo. If you are manual, Motordyne makes an awesome exhaust.