Found out my front left tire has a small nail in there and is leaking air. My tire pressure light had been coming on the past few days and since I reinflated all my tires the other day I thought one of my sensors was getting low on battery life. I guess it was just telling me my tire was low on pressure.

Gonna take it to the tire shop to get it patched in the morning.

 

@Urbanengineer You doing a rods and piston rebuild for that vortech?

 

Yep, just a stock block type rebuild. Clean parts, new bearings, valve seats, valve covers, and reinstall in 80k mile chassis 😁. Car has been sitting months with no work.

i Considered a low compression build but Z1 among others does not recommend it for what Vortech can put out, and I don’t want to shell out the dollars for a turbo build when I already have the Vortech. It’ll never be fast as the bikes we have so meh. The noise and reliable power is enough for me.

 

Yeah that's why I was asking. I've been in a couple that went both ways, stock compression and low compression. If it was track only the low compression makes sense but for daily driver having that extra 20 or so lbs of torque at low rpm when it's not making boost feels better.

 

stuff cleans up nicely with some warm water and acid… lol. Went from black to slightly corroded aluminum again 😅. Didn’t know the lower oil pan was silver! Spent over 2 hours scraping factory grey RTV 😭. Much more to go on the block and the heads!

 

Use a brass wire brush wheel on a drill to remove that RTV. It's SOOOOO much quicker, literally takes minutes. Brass won't damage the aluminum unless you're trying to damage it.

Just be sure to verify the wire wheel is rated for high rpm if you chuck it up to a die grinder, I've kaboomed them before and it's not pretty. Always wear eye protection with those things.

 

brass wheel took off way too much material, so I’ll be hand scraping for the rest 😅 of the aluminum.

 

Weird, I usually don't have a problem with them. What were you using, a drill, dremel, or die grinder?

 

Dremel, probably could switch to drill. Die grinder too Aggro.

 

Yeah it sort of depends on the base material, if it's steel then go full die grinder because it's FAST. Dremel is next most aggressive, drill motors typically spin 2k max so that is the least aggressive option.

 

Did new fuel door bumpers for my car today. Slightly more involved than it sounds, since it involved modeling up replacements and 3D printing..

Replacement Fuel door bumpers - G35Driver - Infiniti G35 & G37 Forum Discussion

 

Finally got around to installing the FI HFCats I’ve had for over a year.
Install went good, but boy I wish I had a lift. Under the car get, out from under the car is not as easy as it used to be.
Car sounds good. Raining here so I haven’t driven it yet. My only regret is not buying a better y pipe.
Next up is a tune. Maybe that new cold air setup from Z1.

Drove it today and wow what a sound WOT.
Really nice.
still has a slight drone at 1800 to 2000. That’s do to the Tanabe exhaust.
Probably should have left stock unit on there. Might just put it back.

 

What I do... Walked 550 meters to the car in 4ft deep snow.. decided to go into my motorhome grab the trickle charger cleaned off the 1200 watt solar panels on the motorhome and ran the wires from my inverter to the g35 so it can get alittle power over the next few months. Ordering new rims and tires in April then a spring tune up. 

 

Installed new OE rack and pinion, as mine was leaking, with wheel alignment.
coolant flush and fill
power steering flush and fill
136,500 miles

 

I have the full FI setup and as good as this system is, it does drone a bit in those lower revs you referenced. So, unless you really can't stand the drone, I'd keep the Tanabe, get a true COI, and have her tuned.