Clean G, what tire set up are you running with the OEM rays

 

my clutch disk I sent into SPEC for a re-pad got lost in shipping. Spec offered to sell me one at cost. Pretty cool company. Might by a flywheel while at it too.

Slide pins sticking 😭.

 

Yeah the outer pad actually still had some meat on it when I inspected it last time. So I assumed the inner pad should be the same. Turns out it wasnt. U think a light sanding of the slide pins and some grease will fix it?

 

It gouged a 4" long tear in my aluminum skid plate lol.

 

Just clean the pins thoroughly with brake cleaner, pop off the rubber grommets on the caliper and use brake cleaner and a bottle brush to clean the holes out good. Then lube, reassemble, WITHOUT THE PADS INSTALLED, and make sure the caliper slides both ways freely. Shouldn't need to do any sanding.

EDIT: I saw one time where a really stiff stainless braided brake line was putting enough pressure on the caliper that it was putting pressure on one pad and kept eating them up. That's why I always like to just visually check how it all floats fully assembled without pads to make sure everything is fairly centered up.

 

Replaced the driver door window motor. Pretty straightforward. Used a Dorman motor. 2x $$ the Amazon motors, but lifetime guarantee and I plan to keep the car a long time so it's the last one I'll ever need to buy. A little slower than the OEM passenger window going up. Also, the plug only comes with one clip to attach to the door. The OEM plug has two clips. I was able to swap them out.

 

I had to do the same with the RevSpring brand motor from CZP, because it came with no clip at all.

 

Put the rear timing cover on. Nissan makes it a game to put on the rtv. One step closer to completion.

 

Interesting. I went to their site to check it out ($9 cheaper than my price on the Dorman) and the image shows the plug with two clips. Must be a stock image and not really what you are getting.... No info on warranty either.

 

Indeed it does show it with the clip on their site, which ticked me off a little. Here's a pic from earlier in this thread that shows the RevSpring (with no clip) and my removed OEM one.

 

Timing done, now to just put on the front crank seal into the front cover and put on a huge amount of black RTV on the cover and smoosh it together. I’ll be able to bring it home soon .

I also need to install the oil pickup tube and the lower pan, which also will need black RTV. Ill do both at the same time.



New parts arrived yesterday, unfortunately…

My Spec clutch disc that I was sending in for a re-pad was lost by UPS en route. I was going to get it repadded, for under $100 so I was super disappointed. Spec offered me a discount on a new disc, so I ended up choosing the “stage 3+ disc” from their options that’s supposed to hold up to 500 crank hp and theoretically have much easier modulation.

it Really blows when you were budgeting for a refurb and have to spend new clutch money 🥲. No surprise, this rebuild is more expensive than I originally planned. Bad luck there I suppose.

I’m just excited to drive the dang thing soon!

 

You putting an oil pan spacer on it?

 

just using the greddy flat baffled pan. pic before cleaned out and degreased lol.

 

Lol, KABOOM!

 

For the oil pan gasket I recommend Felpro instead of the liquid gasket. i replaced my oil pan gasket with felpro and a new oil pan, and it doesn't leak. the felpro gasket is like $4 on amazon.