Is an after market y-pipe worth spending the money on? Looking under the car, the factory one isn't nearly as terrible as the J-pipe (the y-pipe on a FWD V6) my Accord had. After market versions make real power on them.

 

Is the y-pipe worth changing out by itself? No. An exhaust is not going to increase power much on the G, let alone changing out a single part of it.

 

These cars are not at all like the old choked back small block V8s of the 60's. Back then you could bolt on some headers, an intake a nice 800cfm double pumper Hollie, and a mild cam and just about triple your HP/TQ. Back then, you could do that for about $750. That's how much a "tune" will cost you now.

These motors are well designed to make twice the HP of the old Chevy small block with two less holes. They are tuned pretty well from the get go. As most people find out, getting 50HP more out of this motor NA, is an expensive proposition.

 

Actually, the engine only makes 15 hp more and 20 lb-ft less than my '74 4 speed Z/28 did (245/280) and is a few tenths/mph stronger through the quarter mile according to magazine test vs my old Z. Compared to my '71 Chevelle though, (245 gross hp, 168 net and high 16s at 83 with a so-so dual exhaust from a muffler shop), absolutely. Once I started really modding the Chevelle I was able to eventually get it into the high 12s at 108 with a built 350, TH350, 4000 stall and 4.11s, which back in the early to mid 80s was pretty stout for a street car. But no a/c (got in the way), 6-7 mpg city and 9-10 freeway mileage was tough.

The J-pipe on my Accord is very restrictive and the XLR8 v2 I have now made a very noticeable improvement (supposedly 19 hp, 30 lb-ft torque on a TL-S with just an intake) but like you said and I noticed by a casual look over, the Y-pipe on the G35 is a much better OEM design. Just looking for mods I can do to add a bit of power and still keep the car quiet. Wasn't sure if a better Y-pipe is one of those mods that on their own don't do much but are helpful as you do more ahead of it.

They don't really do a visual inspection here for emissions but they do check your ECU for codes.

I had a couple 5.5 gen Maximas, seemed the big mods on those were headers (which makes passing emissions here tough if O2 sims don't work), intake spacers, and the Cattman 3" exhaust.

Looking at larger anti-roll bars for sure. Always have liked cars that handle well. Seems pretty good stock, C&D says .87 on the skidpad stock during their comparison test that included the G35 6 speed sedan. But to me that's just a good starting point.

 

Not talking about that. I mean a 1966 Chevy nova with a 283 with a two barrel Rochester carburetor and a stock cam, single exhaust.

BTW, I did NOT attach the link to Nextag on the word exhaust, you can thank Internet Brands for that bit o' crap.

 

That's not really an apples to apples comparison though. Both the G35 6MT and the Z/28 are marketed as performance cars.

But to extract similar power from a 3.5 V6 vs a 5.7 V8, obviously the V6 is in a higher state of tune stock and its harder to get additional power out of them.

If I can get 25-35 hp through a few mods and a tune, I'll be more than happy.

...and if I had a '66 Nova with a 283, I'd be yanking the motor for a 383 stroker.

 

Scott, on my 05 sedan 5at I gained about right at 40 hp/tq with the following mods:

5/16 MD spacer
MD XYZ
MD resonated midpipe
MD VQ exhaust (prototype)
MD ART pipes
R2C intake
Dyno tune with Osiris
Hotchkis sways f/r
























































J/K about the sways lol. Started at 218 whp stock and finished with 257 after the mods all verifiable by UpRev in Austin (for all you haters/doubters out there). Not a ton and spent a fair amount of coin getting there but it was worth it IMHO.

 

Not bad! Bet it make the car more fun to drive.

 

Yeah it did, so did the Hotchkis sways. Sway bars have always been my favorite bang for the buck mod.

 

Made a huge improvement on my Accord. Factory front was 25.7 mm and hollow, rear was a 13 mm and solid. TL-S front bar is 27 mm and solid and have a Progress solid 24 mm rear bar. Night and day difference. Obviously the G has a better starting point but still room for improvement.

 

Hey guys! I'm new to the forum here as well! Everything I've read so far seems awesome, but I'm really not sure if modding is worth it with the age of this car.

I have a 2005 G35x with 230K on it, and it's burning oil pretty bad. Apart from that it's in great shape, with no other problems. Do you guys think an oil catch can would be a good idea? If not, what did you guys do to fix your oil problems?

 

Honestly the only way to fix the oil consumption would be a rebuild. You could possibly check that your pcv valve isn't clogged and creating extra vac, thus burning more oil or increased blow by. (whichever IDK ) The catch can supposedly has helped others from what I've read but it's not a miracle worker. I put a very simple DIY catch can on mine that has been doing it's job of keeping oil out of the plenum and from recirculating.

Monitor your oil every 500 miles or more if you are **** retentive like me. I've been using Rotella T6 and an over sized M45 oil filter. My oil consumption has gone done progressively over time. Then again I started this regiment since 117k miles and I'm at 133k now. T6 is a high detergent oil, if it actually cleans better than regular synthetic... is the real question. Hypothetically if it does clean you could create oil leaks and what not.

Best of luck and welcome. I've been lurking for about 11 months on this site before I decided to join the community.

-Vince

 

Hey guys, I have a 03 G35 sedan and was wondering what brake set up you guys consider? I am looking for more of a street set up rather than race due to this is my daily driver and I am not looking to take it out on the track. I've looked on Stillen and CARiD and a few other sites and just not sure on the best setup. Like did you guys keep the stock calipers and went just for pads and rotors? Please let me know, thank you!

 

I went though stop tech drilled rotors and pads (cracked back rotors), EBC "green stuff" and stock rotors (eat the rotors like short ribs) and Hawk HPS and stock rotors (ZERO brakes in wet, cold conditions) . I went back to stock rotors and after market ceramic pads and it's been working fine since.

 

Wow, thanks so much for the info Vince! I've been lurking for a while as well, but you've definitely taught me a lot just from that one post!

Where did you get your catch can from? Do you think one from eBay would suffice? And in terms of oil, why did you choose to go with Rotella T6? From what I've read that's a 5W-40 oil for diesel engines(?), but it still works for you?

Thanks once again!