Random Little Question Thread
No experience with Slick 50 but personally I wouldn't if your engine is running fine. Heard horror stories about Restore; different product I know, but it seems VQs don't like additives.
So, I just realized the projectors I ordered are D1S....
I'm going to be using a DDM HID kit, but their D1S kits are a lot more expensive.
Anyone know what other bulb style would be easiest to adapt to fit?
I'm going to be using a DDM HID kit, but their D1S kits are a lot more expensive.
Anyone know what other bulb style would be easiest to adapt to fit?
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 432
Likes: 4
RIM QUESTION!!!!
Lost some rivets for my rim... well the shop did while fixing the curb rash!
Im only missing 2 out of 10 but these aren't plastic these actually left holes in the rims!
I took them off and back on my 18s for now my question is are they still safe to drive on the shop guy said yes since its only 2 missing but he was shady!
They didn't even charge me after I noticed they were missing.
Also can I replace em??? Anyone know how/where? Thanks
Lost some rivets for my rim... well the shop did while fixing the curb rash!
Im only missing 2 out of 10 but these aren't plastic these actually left holes in the rims!
I took them off and back on my 18s for now my question is are they still safe to drive on the shop guy said yes since its only 2 missing but he was shady!
They didn't even charge me after I noticed they were missing.
Also can I replace em??? Anyone know how/where? Thanks
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Joined: May 2010
Posts: 27
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DD with OEM Nav but no JDM/Metra kit or faceplate?
2003 sedan here w/OEM Nav. So I want to replace my HU with a DD. The question is do I need to purchase an separate AC controller or is it possible to just Dremel the existing face and slide in a new DD? Looks not withstanding, is it possible and still have a fully functioning AC? I can get whatever I need machined by a friend to make it fit.
I would spring for the aftermarket kits, but I've got the burlwood interior which they don't make a kit for. I also don't want to lose my OEM Nav.
I would spring for the aftermarket kits, but I've got the burlwood interior which they don't make a kit for. I also don't want to lose my OEM Nav.
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Joined: May 2010
Posts: 27
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Thanks - I suppose I'll have to sell my entire console on ebay. I see people listing it for $700 but I doubt anyone is paying that much.
dammit! what to do, what to do... yeah, it's running fine but thought i'd give it a little cleaning, anyway. hmmm..
Soooooo 2 nights ago, it was about -25degrees with wind. Yesterday morning I woke up and at about 10am, went tos tart my car to drive to class. It was probably -10 then.
Started the car, turned over very slowly and the whole car started shaking Lol kinda freaked me out. Then it idled really rough and low, then just died. I was like "wtf" started it back up and it seemed to run fine albeit idling high and being very frozen.
Gave it 3 minutes to warm up, then i drove very slowly and kept the revs under 2k until it fully warmed up. Everything felt frozen, it was brutal. Tranny shifted hard, steering was hard, everything was just frozen.
Everything else I understand, but my car idling weird then dieing, that freaked me out a bit. Anyone else experience that?
Started the car, turned over very slowly and the whole car started shaking Lol kinda freaked me out. Then it idled really rough and low, then just died. I was like "wtf" started it back up and it seemed to run fine albeit idling high and being very frozen.
Gave it 3 minutes to warm up, then i drove very slowly and kept the revs under 2k until it fully warmed up. Everything felt frozen, it was brutal. Tranny shifted hard, steering was hard, everything was just frozen.
Everything else I understand, but my car idling weird then dieing, that freaked me out a bit. Anyone else experience that?
SPC will allow you to dial in more positive camber (via the shim kit it comes with) over Ichiba...but, SPC is not recommended for aggressively lowered (2+ inches) cars as the A-arms have been known to knock.
So it really depends on how low you go and whether you want to try and get as close to OEM spec as possible.
Another option are the SPL arms which IIRC, will give you more positive camber correction than ichiba..but, stay away from the version 1 of those arms as they too were known to have a knocking issue on aggressively lowered cars.
So it really depends on how low you go and whether you want to try and get as close to OEM spec as possible.
Another option are the SPL arms which IIRC, will give you more positive camber correction than ichiba..but, stay away from the version 1 of those arms as they too were known to have a knocking issue on aggressively lowered cars.
There is no wiring. It's plug&play.
If anything, LED would be more problematic.
If anything, LED would be more problematic.