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The only differences on the long block is the oil pump and the baffle in the oil pan, possibly different rods because some folks have bent standard DE rods when boosted when others have pushed the same WHP on the rev-up without issue. Pistons are the same, crank is the same. They may have different head bolts but they're TTY so you'll be replacing them anyways.
Get ahold of a 350Z, G35, or M35 VQ35DE and use the long block. Buy gaskets, head bolts, oil pump, possibly water pump, timing chain kit. Flow test clean/replace injectors as needed and you should be good to go.
If you had a lot of miles on the existing motor it would probably be cheaper to just keep searching for a low mile replacement revup because you're still going to need about $800 worth of stuff to get it all back together unless you're reusing a lot of components.
The only differences on the long block is the oil pump and the baffle in the oil pan, possibly different rods because some folks have bent standard DE rods when boosted when others have pushed the same WHP on the rev-up without issue. Pistons are the same, crank is the same. They may have different head bolts but they're TTY so you'll be replacing them anyways.
Get ahold of a 350Z, G35, or M35 VQ35DE and use the long block. Buy gaskets, head bolts, oil pump, possibly water pump, timing chain kit. Flow test clean/replace injectors as needed and you should be good to go.
If you had a lot of miles on the existing motor it would probably be cheaper to just keep searching for a low mile replacement revup because you're still going to need about $800 worth of stuff to get it all back together unless you're reusing a lot of components.
Car-part.com can help find stuff semi-locally
thanks for the reply cleric, I’ve already got a gaskets, seals and head bolts kit that ima use. The crank it has now is scored and the rod has some imperfections I’m looking to swap out but the block is otherwise fine.
Going for a regular 287 DE block is gonna need me to drill out some holes on the back of it im trying to avoid. But since you say the internals are the same fitment wise then I’m probably going to do at least a crank and rod swap. My bro is probably gonna keep it NA so rod strength isn’t a problem at this point. The oem pistons do actually have a different deck height so using de pistons in a rev up will have slightly lower compression in that cylinder so I’m probably going to get one to swap it out to keep compression consistent across all chambers. Thanks for the response! I’m estimating around $500 here for this at the end of the day with a salvaged crank, rod, and maybe new piston.
Well thank you for your support my friend! I'm going to submit one of these to a sticker printing place and see how much money it costs. If it's ridiculous then I'll abandon ship otherwise I'll post the result in the future. No stroke, transparent bg No stroke, white bg Stroke, transparent bg Stroke, white bg
Yeah, don't F with a saguaro. One time a LONG time ago we went out and though we would shoot one down, we put literally EVERY bullet we had into that thing, many boxes of shotgun shells point blank, dozens of mags of 5.56 and 7.62 from our semi rifles, countless pistol rounds including 357mag, and like 50 rounds of .338 Lapua from an experimental rifle a friend was working on for a couple contractors.
It was super ragged when we left but we quickly realized they're basically stocky spiky desert trees.
Then we found out how illegal it was to shoot one apart like that. I got mailed a picture a few years later from one of those guys and that thing was still alive and had grown these huge knots all over the middle where we blasted it apart. It was probably 100 years old when we shot it and it's still out there.
I've got a random question , figured I'd post here first. I don't expect to get many replies but here it goes.
So I have to park my 05 sedan in a poorly paved parking lot. and my front wheel sits in a little indentation in the pavement. Essentially my driver side tire is in 5 inch deep pothole. so the car isn't level whatsoever.
My question is.. what parts are going to wear prematurely from my car sitting in this position for about 23 hours a day. I have recently developed a clunk on hard breaking that can be heard in the same area , the drivers side front wheel. I'm thinking my sway bar end links might be wearing prematurely from parking this way since they are loaded up since I'm not parked on a level surface. Can anyone agree disagree? What should I do? I have moog endlinks I replaced about a year ago, I know my clunk noise could be totally unrelated but my steering has gotten more vague as well.
Yeah loading up the chassis like that will wear out rubber bushings faster since there is constant tension on them.
If it's an asphalt road just buy a sack of asphalt repair from home Depot and dump it in the hole and let it sit overnight with your vehicle parked in front or behind it. As a temporary fix you can just pick up a sack of gravel and pour that in the hole.
I can't even count the number of times I've doney own road repair because I live in the county and they really let the roads go to hell some winter's.
Look up the asphalt patch on YouTube, it's SUPER easy to use, if you have a short piece of wood like a 3' long 2x4 or something you can use it to tamp the patch in really well and it will last for years for about $15, Sakrete is the brand I typically use for anything like that, concrete, etc.
It will be sticky the next day so put a pile of sand on top of it to keep it from sticking to your tires. You can drive on it immediately if you need to but I usually stay off it for 1 full day.
