BigSash, the 51R is taller than the OEM battery, is this correct? Did the height present any problems with fitment of the battery cover? Thanks.

 

Thought I would post my experiences from this weekend. I put a Yellow Top D35 in this weekend. I had no problems, and it fit perfectly. For those of you thinking this is not a reverse terminal, it IS. The 35 series is a "European configuration", meaning that it is a reversed terminal configuration (positive terminal on the right). There is no "R" in the title of this battery. Anyhow, it came with an extension that raises the battery to exactly the same height as the stock one. It has higher CA's and CCA's than the D51R. Other good news is that my car used to buck when the bass hit hard (I have a 450/4 and a 500/1). This has almost completely stopped after installing the battery. Very satisfied!! Here are two sites that sell it at great prices:

http://www.diversifiedbattery.com/Optima_Batteries.html


http://www.1st-optima-batteries.com/index.html

 

man why do people always repeat the same information?


yes it is taller, but it fits perfectly with stock bracket and battery cover

 

khsonic did you have any caps on your system when it was surging?

 

http://www.diversifiedbattery.com/op...p_battery.html

D35 in the picture above has the positive on the left..but if you have it i'll go with what you say....

any info on the 34/78 posts? and fit?
http://www.diversifiedbattery.com/product537.html

 

the D35r is the way you want to go. Its a bolt in and at the price, its a no brainer

 

51R is direct replacement of stock with no need for spacer

 

Im trying to figure out ???? Mine was a direct bolt in. maybe some new part numbers. the results, I gained was worth the price.

 

There is no such thing as a D35R, it is a D35. And yes, all of the pictures of a D35 that you will see show the positive terminal on the left. That is why I was so skeptical of getting it. I had the guy from DBC pull one out and look at it while I was on the phone. For some reason the pictures are incorrect. I suppose I will take a picture of mine when I get a chance, so people can see for themselves. The 1st-optima batteries site shows all of the post configurations and battery sizes, and the information is correct.

As far as caps go, no I had no caps. I am one of those people who doesn't believe in caps. Just one more thing that the vehicle's charging system needs to keep charged. Solid grounds, ample sized wire, and a good battery should prevent the need for caps. Unless you are using some monstrous amps or pulling some serious current, in which case you really should be upgrading your alternator.

 

ur right i should be upgrading my alternator

 

i have enough $$$ in the car as it is though Sadly, I do have a bit of the surging you were referring to when my bass is hitting hard even with my Yellow Top. But my bass amp pulls a lot of power when the bass is turned up. I was hoping capping would help. what's it cost to upgrade the alternator?

 

I'm not going to go look up the amps that you have, so what amount of current do those amps pull? (What is the fuse size for each amp/what is the RMS wattage?). Have you upgraded all of your grounds? Even upgrading the "big 3" would help (engine to chasis, battery to chasis, alternator to positive battery terminal). And upgrading your alternator is very expensive on our cars. As far as I know right now, there is no direct replacement for our alternators. You have to have it upgraded as a custom rebuild. As far as capping, I would use that as a last resort.

 

Here's the amp info, let me know if you need anything not here in order to give me advice. no i haven't upgrades the big 3 yet but i am planning on getting one of gord's 10-wire grounding kits

DLS RA10
RMS output at 13,8 volts , < 0,1% distortion.
Mode : AB
Number of channels : 1
Power output in 4 ohm : 300 Watt
Power output in 2 ohm : 500 Watt
Power output in 1 ohm : 780 Watt
Frequency range : 10 Hz - 125 Hz
S / N ratio, A-weighted : > 100 dB
Damping factor : > 200
Input impedance, low level input : > 10 kohm
Input impedance, high level input : 330 ohm
High level input with auto start function : Yes
nput sensitivity, variable : 0,5 - 8 V
Grand bass filter @ 40 Hz : variable 0 - 18 dB
Variable phase shift control for subwoofers : variable 0 - 180 degrees
Remote bass level and phase control : Yes
Built-in cooling fan : Yes
Filter lowpass, variable : 40-125 Hz /12 dB slope
Subsonic filter : 25 Hz, 18 dB slope
Max cable size, DC-input : 4AWG / 21 mm2
Max cable size speaker output : 7AWG / 10 mm2
Protection : Current, DC-offset and thermal
Current draw, idle : 0,6 A
Current draw, maximum : 120 A

DLS RA40
RMS output per channel at 13,8 volts, 20 Hz - 20 kHz , < 0,1% distortion.
Mode : AB
Number of channels : 4
Power output in 4 ohm : 4 x 75 Watt
Power output in 2 ohm : 4 x 110 Watt
Power output in 4 ohm bridge mode : 2 x 220 Watt
Frequency range : 10 Hz - 50 kHz
S / N ratio, A-weighted : > 100 dB
Damping factor : > 200
Input impedance, low level input : > 10 kohm
Input impedance, high level input : 330 ohm
High level input with auto start function : Yes
nput sensitivity, variable : 0,2 - 7 V
Grand bass filter : variable 0 - 18 dB
Variable phase shift control for subwoofers : variable 0 - 180 degrees
Filter, highpass, variable : 20 - 150 Hz on all channels
Filter lowpass, variable : 40-125 Hz on ch. 3/4
Filter slope : 12 dB/octave
Current draw, idle : 0,9 A
Current draw, maximum : 50 A

 

the bass amp is pushing the 1 ohm load

 

Anyone try the Braille Auto battery or the Xstatic battery? Both are are less than 15 lbs. Thanks.