The reason this question keeps coming up is for what appears to be a fairly small number of folks, the L-H (23.8 mm) range on the dipstick IS TWO QUARTS, not ONE... I know because I own one... I've changed oil enough times now to be 100% convinced... When I change oil, I dump and let it drain for quite a while, also remove and toss the old filter... New filter, new oil pan nut and I start adding oil, all on a flat garage floor... When I get to THREE quarts added, the oil level is very close to the L mark on the dipstick... When I add a 4th quart and let it sit for a while, it clearly comes to the middle of the dipstick, nowhere close to full... Then a fifth quart takes it up to full... No ambiguity, no confusion, repeatable... Clearly most folks don't have this same experience but I've had one other person tell me his car is just like mine.. And others have reported hearing some similar stories over on the 350Z forums... I would love to have someone tell me I'm doing something wrong but this is just too easy and too repeatable... The only theory I've ever come up with is that maybe for some engine rev (??) Nissan decided to change the oil pan design to change the L-H span, perhaps as a marketing ploy to let folks know they can still drive significant miles before having to add oil even if it means you're TWO QUARTS low when you get to the low mark... But as long as the engineers decided the engine would be ok running with only 3 quarts in the crankcase, maybe they decided to build some rev of the engines that way??? Sounds like a stretch I admit but for whatever the reason, my 06 6MT has an oil span L-H of TWO QUARTS, period...

Also, doesn't anyone find it strange that the way they wrote this TSB says that for the 1 quart L-H span case, the following table would apply...

Miles Range-->1001-1500, "No Good" at (mm)-->7.5, Implied miles/qt range-->3204-4800
Miles Range-->1501-2000, "No Good" at (mm)-->10.5, Implied miles/qt range-->3430-4572
Miles Range-->2001-2500, "No Good" at (mm)-->13.5, Implied miles/qt range-->3558-4444
Miles Range-->2501-3000, "No Good" at (mm)-->18.5, Implied miles/qt range-->3244-3892
Miles Range-->3001-3500, "No Good" at (mm)-->22.5, Implied miles/qt range-->3202-3734
Miles Range-->3500-3750, "No Good" at (mm)-->24.5, Implied miles/qt range-->3430-3674

To show an example, say you have a ONE QUART L-H engine (24 mm L to H) and that your oil is down 7.5 mm at about 1500 miles since an oil change... That would be 1500 divided by the ratio of 7.5/24... That would be right on the edge of being eligible for a replacement engine but that number works out to be 4800 miles/quart... That sure sounds like a good engine to me... Inifiniti told me 2500 miles per quart was "good" for this car with this setup...

That they would be willing to replace an engine that is getting (depending on the case above) at least 3000 miles/quart and as much as 4800 miles/quart???? Wow, that struck me as strange from the get go... For a TWO QUART L-H engine like I have, all the above "Implied miles/qt range" values get cut in half and those make a little more sense (1500-2500 miles/quart kind of numbers)...

And maybe Nissan decided it was just too complicated to put out two different TSB's so they just decided to write one to cover all the 6MT's??? So folks with a ONE QUART L-H could get a new engine even though their oil consumption wasn't terribly high???

Beats me... But anyway the TSB seems to make sense for a TWO QUART L-H system but not for a ONE QUART L-H... At least not to me... I think the TSB, as written, supports the notion that there might be more than just my TWO QUART L-H engines out there running around on the road...

Tis a mystery to me... thanks... bob...

 

^Agree...mystery.
If your current OC with your current 2qt to H/L stick gets you qualified per TSB, get the replacement and do the same test to see if it changes to a 1qt to H/L. Long block comes with a new pan, mine did....

 

Just wondering what you guy's think of type of oil to use with new rev-up. I had motor replaced about a month ago and want to do first oil change. I prefer synthetic but have heard you should not use synthetic oil right away with new motor. Any thoughts??

 

^ Doesn't matter imo. I've read successes and failures using either kind on these replacements on many OC threads and on other forums.

It's still a crap shoot if you get a good replacement or not regardless what oil and/or how you break it in...

Mine started out with some OC and was improving to almost no OC during break-in period, now has reversed to border-line fail on TSB chart with less than 10K on it....

G/L with yours and hope it's a winner.

 

I did a change at 100 miles to 10w30 dino, another at 1200 with the same.

at 3200 I went mobil1 0w40 synth. Too early to tell oc with the 0w40 but I will say that it pulls like a ***** from about 4k and up with this oil. Me likey.

 

Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 works well for me. I wish I had switched to a synth on the first 25 miles on the freshly built engine. My UOA's and coming from a scientists and an engineer that no conventional oil is going to hold up to the new engine during break-in. After break-in yes, but not during. Check out my UOA's posted on my350z under the Used Oil Analysis.

 

I used a 10w-30 blend. Now running 5w-30 100% Synth. Don't know if my OC is back to improving or continuing worse. Haven't checked, but will at ~2500mi to see what's up.

Important point no matter which oil during break-in, is to change often for first 3750mi to get build metals, assembly lubes flushed out and fresh oil b/c it gets pounded during that period.

 

The absolute hardest part of this ,I mean big PTA , is trying to read the lame azz dipstick. I have 06 mt, and suspect OC problems. So I Fill her up to what appears to be H line (who knows after all), and wait for 1k. Recheck and there is friggin oil all over the stupid stick (in blotches/no exact line) from above H to below L , and everywhere in between !! I wait for 1.5k, check again, same thing. Now I know all about waiting 30+ minutes and checking on level ground, ect, etc... so i even waited 45 min last time and no different. WTF ?? Anybody have some expert opinions (other than get a g37) on how I troubleshoot the weakest link in the G drive train ??

 

Interesting question- I'm noticing a streak up to the high mark, with the solid oil line just a 3 mm above the L marking after about 800 miles.
I do the same thing, re-check over and over, with similar results.
Am I about a quart low? Is the streaking just residue in the dipstick tube?

Dealer is running an OC test as we speak,and I'll be bringing it in after about 1500 miles.

Check out Binar's post
https://g35driver.com/forums/engine-...-dipstick.html

 

I used to get that ...and thought that faint line you describe at 3 mm was the level, now it's just crazy random splotches, like I spit on it. Don't know what happened but yeah it suks.

 

When I check mine, I do after G sitting all night. First pull is the best in seeing where level really is. Sometimes have to turn and look on non-hash mark side too for a clean level line, then turn back to reference.

IMO dip stick in general, is the most stupid one I've ever had to deal with lol.

 

The only level place I have is the street and I've been reluctant to park it there all night with all the haters and what not about. But I guess I'll have to do that and keep my fingers crossed (full garage).

 

Haters...FTMFL.

Level parking where you work? Let it sit all day, then check before heading home. Just a thought...

 

went to dealer to have oil consumption test started. I had been changing my oil myself every 4kish w synthetic... anyhow they told me i have to provide proof my oil was changed from a shop to nissan for them to warranty the engine. She said they can start the oil consumption test but i have to pay 45bucks for them to change it. I thought it was a free oil change. On top of it nowhere does it state that ive seen that the oil must be changed by a business. This is bogus I have a couple reciets from my changes myself but she claims that wont even work. What is the oil change requirement interval when using syntheic?

 

She's full of crap. Print out the tsb bring it in and ask her to show you where it says that.

infiniti pays for the oil change that is done to start the test, not you