Hotchkis Sway Bars
hey Adrian,
Berks are awesome, the sound under partial throttle is amazing, especially when i'm leaving my parking garage, under Wot not so sure, something in the stock exhaust can't handle the extra flow I think so it might be rasp or something, just doesn't sound right. I hope yours comes in quick! power gains are great though.
on to the sways, I'll try to fit your front ones and send back, but I can't this month too much work and midterms, I really want to get rid of the body roll!!
Berks are awesome, the sound under partial throttle is amazing, especially when i'm leaving my parking garage, under Wot not so sure, something in the stock exhaust can't handle the extra flow I think so it might be rasp or something, just doesn't sound right. I hope yours comes in quick! power gains are great though.
on to the sways, I'll try to fit your front ones and send back, but I can't this month too much work and midterms, I really want to get rid of the body roll!!
Yeah, I'm sure those 275's in the back are giving you more hook-up than my stock 245's. When I eventually get my SSR wheels and tires, then I'm probably try my rear bar in the middle hole again, but for now I'll leave it in the outside hole.
My bars came in today, thanks Travis and Andy.
Question for those of you who received theirs/install theirs already:
The parts list shows the following two items listed, but they aren't in the parts bag:
M8-25HEXFLG, 1.25X25mm flange bolt, front, 4 pcs
M8-20HEXFLG, 1.25X20mm flange bolt, rear, 4 pcs
Is that something that should be included in the parts bag? I would assume the brackets (the instructions show the same) bolt up to the same bolts on the frame for the stock sway bars. Maybe (most likely) it's a typo that Hotchkis should address so there isn't any further confusion for future customers.
Also, strangely enough, the parts list shows 8 qty of the 1-3/8" bushing and 4 qty of the 1-1/16" bushing (weird). There should only be 2 of each, unless I got hit with the crazy stick today
Question for those of you who received theirs/install theirs already:
The parts list shows the following two items listed, but they aren't in the parts bag:
M8-25HEXFLG, 1.25X25mm flange bolt, front, 4 pcs
M8-20HEXFLG, 1.25X20mm flange bolt, rear, 4 pcs
Is that something that should be included in the parts bag? I would assume the brackets (the instructions show the same) bolt up to the same bolts on the frame for the stock sway bars. Maybe (most likely) it's a typo that Hotchkis should address so there isn't any further confusion for future customers.
Also, strangely enough, the parts list shows 8 qty of the 1-3/8" bushing and 4 qty of the 1-1/16" bushing (weird). There should only be 2 of each, unless I got hit with the crazy stick today
Last edited by E-Ticket Ride; Feb 18, 2009 at 09:12 PM.
I can't install mine until Friday
My stupid floor jack busted a seal the other day while I was changing oil and leaked the hydraulic fluid all over my garage floor. Gotta go to Costco and return the old one and go to Sears to buy a new one
My stupid floor jack busted a seal the other day while I was changing oil and leaked the hydraulic fluid all over my garage floor. Gotta go to Costco and return the old one and go to Sears to buy a new one
Thanks
installing
what do you guys use to jack up the car?
I have ramps but cause my driveway is not completely level it seems the very bottom of the lip rubs on the ramp surface. i have used the ramps for oil changes and now i have a mark on the underside of the front bumper.
any thoughts?
if i use a jack in the assigned areas on the sides then i have no where to put jack stands once it up. also, is it safe to get under with just the jack stands?
I have ramps but cause my driveway is not completely level it seems the very bottom of the lip rubs on the ramp surface. i have used the ramps for oil changes and now i have a mark on the underside of the front bumper.
any thoughts?
if i use a jack in the assigned areas on the sides then i have no where to put jack stands once it up. also, is it safe to get under with just the jack stands?
jack points
I think this is a coupe but it still is valid.

I jacked the front and put 3-ton jack stands on the front side jack areas, then jacked the back and did the same for the rear jack areas. You will need some room to do the rears (including lowering the back of the exhaust) and having the entire car in the air makes things much easier. do not use chintzy jack stands. The 3+ ton jack stands are all pretty robust.
BTW, I think you are supposed to jack up the car to off-load the sway bars to do the install.

I jacked the front and put 3-ton jack stands on the front side jack areas, then jacked the back and did the same for the rear jack areas. You will need some room to do the rears (including lowering the back of the exhaust) and having the entire car in the air makes things much easier. do not use chintzy jack stands. The 3+ ton jack stands are all pretty robust.
BTW, I think you are supposed to jack up the car to off-load the sway bars to do the install.
My mistake I think. I think the key is that if both sizes are equal, you are good. Hotchkis' instructions say to jack up each end for each bar install, but I think you can use ramps.

I don't know if the car needs to be off the wheels for the stock sway bars to come off and the Hotchkis to be installed. However, when torquing the bolts down to spec, shouldn't the car be fully weighted onto it's suspension?
That's what I usually do when I torque the bolts for suspension components in general when installing springs, shocks, etc.
I don't know if the car needs to be off the wheels for the stock sway bars to come off and the Hotchkis to be installed. However, when torquing the bolts down to spec, shouldn't the car be fully weighted onto it's suspension?
That's what I usually do when I torque the bolts for suspension components in general when installing springs, shocks, etc.
That's what I usually do when I torque the bolts for suspension components in general when installing springs, shocks, etc.
There is also mention of having the vehicle on the tires when torquing the end link bolts.
Also, one thing I found was interesting: The Stillen instructions and the Hotchkis instructions both specify different torque ratings for both the frame bolts and the end links. I thought that was very strange that 2 different manufacturers would give two totally different torque measurements.


