Hotchkis Sway Bars

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Old Feb 20, 2009 | 03:54 PM
  #181  
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Sways are on. Total installation time was about 1.5 hours for both. Cliff notes when I get back home, gotta take the dog to the vet.

Driving feedback when I get back
 
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Old Feb 20, 2009 | 03:57 PM
  #182  
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Awesome!!! Good job, San.. 1.5 hours is making good time. I think it took me closer to 2 hours, but I did have some trouble getting the front end up on the ramps, so that slowed me down a little.

Hope your dog is alright..
 
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Old Feb 20, 2009 | 04:27 PM
  #183  
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Originally Posted by san~man
I can't install mine until Friday My stupid floor jack busted a seal the other day while I was changing oil and leaked the hydraulic fluid all over my garage floor. Gotta go to Costco and return the old one and go to Sears to buy a new one
That's not good. Which Costco jack did you have? The blue/silver aluminum? This is the one I have.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2009 | 05:23 PM
  #184  
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Originally Posted by bertmauricio
That's not good. Which Costco jack did you have? The blue/silver aluminum? This is the one I have.
Yup, the "Torin" 1.5 ton aluminum jack. Was about 99 or 109.00. Stupid thing leaked almost all the hydraulic fluid on my garage floor. Gotta love Costco, took it back no questions asked

Cliff notes:

(I think I got the nuts sizes right, I should have wrote them down when doing the installation but I was pressed for time).

1. The front is super easy. Frame bolts are 14mm, end link bolts are 17mm. Strangely enough, the outer side of the end link bolt were you need to use a box wrench when tightening is 19mm.

2. Rear is a bitch. Tip: loosen the back and second to the back exhaust hangars (at the frame, not the rubber donut) and it'll drop the exhaust enough to slide the rear stock bar out. Frame bolts and end links were 14mm, the exhaust hangar bolts were 12mm.

3. I put the rear on the softest setting. I didn't do much "spirited" driving, but there is an immediate, obvious difference. Body roll is greatly reduced. The car is actually pleasant to drive around turns now. Handling seems more neutral than under steer at the moment. If the middle hole induces some under steer, it'll be fine if it reduces roll at the same time (to me).

4. I'm going to drive on the softest rear setting for a week, then try the middle hole. Changing the settings is a 10 minute task at that. It'll take more time to jack up the car than to change the setting.

5. Thank god I bought the breaker bar. My end link nuts were stubborn to get off and I doubt the regular 3/8" socket handle would've been long enough to provide enough torque. Don't forget to spray wd40 on the nuts before you start removing them.

If I forgot anything, I'll add it in this post. To all of you on the fence about buying the bars, don't hesitate to do so. I'm bone stock other than the bars and they made a tremendous difference for $399.00. It's a no-brainer.

**Thanks to Adrian and everyone else who gave me install tips. I hope the above notes will help anyone installing their bars after me.**
 
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Old Feb 20, 2009 | 05:45 PM
  #185  
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congrats on the install san man.

1.5 ton jack? I think you should consider a 3 ton jack and 3 ton jackstands. 1.5 ton are really flimsy stuff.

If anything, stiffening up the rear sway bar will give you more oversteer.

Also, where did you get this that you paid $399? I thought we all got it for $369?
 
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Old Feb 20, 2009 | 05:53 PM
  #186  
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Originally Posted by mishmosh
congrats on the install san man.

1.5 ton jack? I think you should consider a 3 ton jack and 3 ton jackstands. 1.5 ton are really flimsy stuff.
I returned that 1.5 ton costco jack and got a 3 ton craftsman aluminum lo-pro professional Seems to be a good jack so far

Originally Posted by mishmosh
If anything, stiffening up the rear sway bar will give you more oversteer.
I'll see on the rear bar next week. For sure I don't want oversteer, so if that happens I'll just put it back to the first hole. That's the great thing about being adjustable

Originally Posted by mishmosh
Also, where did you get this that you paid $399? I thought we all got it for $369?
Extra shipping to Hawaii We always get "fugged in the drive thru" on shipping lol.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2009 | 08:31 PM
  #187  
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Do not, I repeat, do not buy the Craftsman aluminum jack that Sears sells... Unfortuantely that is the worst jack I have ever owned. I had mine replaced twice in 3 months before I finally gave up on it and returned it for my money back and went to Harbor Frieght and bought American General one that the shop I go to uses. I funny too, because I read all of the bad revies about the Craftsman jack before I bought it, but I ignored them, because I worked fro Sears for a number of years and am a huge Craftsman fan... Oh well, live and learn.

You live in Hawaii, San? Which Island? WooHoo... Now I know where I'm staying the next time I visit!!!
 
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Old Feb 20, 2009 | 08:42 PM
  #188  
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Great post, San!!!

I posted some comments in blue below.

FYI... I'm always happy to help.

Originally Posted by san~man
Yup, the "Torin" 1.5 ton aluminum jack. Was about 99 or 109.00. Stupid thing leaked almost all the hydraulic fluid on my garage floor. Gotta love Costco, took it back no questions asked

Cliff notes:

(I think I got the nuts sizes right, I should have wrote them down when doing the installation but I was pressed for time).

1. The front is super easy. Frame bolts are 14mm, end link bolts are 17mm. Strangely enough, the outer side of the end link bolt were you need to use a box wrench when tightening is 19mm.

I've seen it done this way on other cars to. They do this so you don't have to have two 17 mm wrenches to break the end link loose. You use the 17 mm box wrnech on the outer and a 19 mm on the inner... Most people won't have two 17 mm box wrenches.

2. Rear is a bitch. Tip: loosen the back and second to the back exhaust hangars (at the frame, not the rubber donut) and it'll drop the exhaust enough to slide the rear stock bar out. Frame bolts and end links were 14mm, the exhaust hangar bolts were 12mm.

I actually did the rear in less time than the front. I just pulled the rear section of the exhuast off the rubber hangers and had plenty of play to work the stock bar out and the Hotchkis bar in. Was pretty simple.

3. I put the rear on the softest setting. I didn't do much "spirited" driving, but there is an immediate, obvious difference. Body roll is greatly reduced. The car is actually pleasant to drive around turns now. Handling seems more neutral than under steer at the moment. If the middle hole induces some under steer, it'll be fine if it reduces roll at the same time (to me).

If you go to the middle setting then you will stiffen the bar, which will actually induce some oversteer, not understeer. I tried the middle setting, but with my stock rear tires I felt the car if better balanced with the rear bar in the outside setting. If I had a little beefier rear tires, then the middle setting might work well.

4. I'm going to drive on the softest rear setting for a week, then try the middle hole. Changing the settings is a 10 minute task at that. It'll take more time to jack up the car than to change the setting.

If you do this, make sure to keep the traction control on. I almost always drive with my traction control off and as soon as I switched to the middle setting I started to get some snap oversteer and I almost spun the car in the middle of a turn, but I was actually able to hold the powerslide through the turn... It actually made me feel like Jeremy Clarkson from Top Gear!!

5. Thank god I bought the breaker bar. My end link nuts were stubborn to get off and I doubt the regular 3/8" socket handle would've been long enough to provide enough torque. Don't forget to spray wd40 on the nuts before you start removing them.

+1000 on the WD40... That stuff definitely helps. I got away with a 1/2" wratchet set-up, but my car is also fairly new, so there was no corrossion whatsoever.

If I forgot anything, I'll add it in this post. To all of you on the fence about buying the bars, don't hesitate to do so. I'm bone stock other than the bars and they made a tremendous difference for $399.00. It's a no-brainer.

**Thanks to Adrian and everyone else who gave me install tips. I hope the above notes will help anyone installing their bars after me.**
 
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Old Feb 20, 2009 | 09:06 PM
  #189  
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Originally Posted by 2GoRNot2G
Do not, I repeat, do not buy the Craftsman aluminum jack that Sears sells... Unfortuantely that is the worst jack I have ever owned. I had mine replaced twice in 3 months before I finally gave up on it and returned it for my money back and went to Harbor Frieght and bought American General one that the shop I go to uses. I funny too, because I read all of the bad revies about the Craftsman jack before I bought it, but I ignored them, because I worked fro Sears for a number of years and am a huge Craftsman fan... Oh well, live and learn.

You live in Hawaii, San? Which Island? WooHoo... Now I know where I'm staying the next time I visit!!!
I read the reviews of the smaller jacks (1.5 or 2 ton), and they absolutely sucked. The one I got (3 ton) had 7+ and 1- review, so I thought I'd give it a shot. I have 90 days to return it or 1 year in store replacement. Hopefully it works out since I sure as hell don't want to drop the $$$ for a blue point or similar That wasn't the ****ty one, was it?

I'm on Oahu.

It's funny that the rear end link bolts weren't off sized like the fronts were. Both on the rear were 14mm. No biggie for me since I had sockets and open/box wrenches, but I thought it was strange that the fronts were different. Just something to note for future installers.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2009 | 09:12 PM
  #190  
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Oh, very nice... I've flow through Honolulu serveral times, but have never visited. We usually gp to the big Island and or Maui.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2009 | 09:14 PM
  #191  
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Yeah... The one I had all the problems with was the 2 ton version... I already have a 3 ton jack I use for my truck, so I just wanted something smaller and lighter... So far, I'm happy with the 2 ton one I got at Harbor Freight, although it does take a little effort to use,but only time will tell how it holds up.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2009 | 09:28 PM
  #192  
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Cool. The 3 tons seems to be built pretty stout, but looks can be deceiving.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2009 | 09:29 PM
  #193  
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Originally Posted by 2GoRNot2G
I also had to use some word to drive the car onto first to get the nose far enough off the ground, so it didn't scrape the ramp.
Aaahhhh, this is what i need to do, to stop scraping the bottom of the bumper on the ramp!
What did you use? a 2x4 or something thinner?

thanks
 
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Old Feb 20, 2009 | 09:46 PM
  #194  
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BTW, did all of your cars come with the dirt shields in the rear that you had to remove, like the instructions mentioned (I'm assuming that it's KulG35's car)? Mine didn't and I thought that was odd. I've never had any work done to my car back there.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2009 | 09:49 PM
  #195  
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I have a similar one--I think it was on sale for $140 though. The only problem with it is that it drops down way too fast--just about slammed my car to the ground one time. The handle adjustment is like a hair trigger--you really have to turn it minutely to get it to drop slowly.
 
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