Hotchkis Sway Bars
Awesome!!! Good job, San.. 1.5 hours is making good time.
I think it took me closer to 2 hours, but I did have some trouble getting the front end up on the ramps, so that slowed me down a little.
Hope your dog is alright..
I think it took me closer to 2 hours, but I did have some trouble getting the front end up on the ramps, so that slowed me down a little.Hope your dog is alright..
That's not good. Which Costco jack did you have? The blue/silver aluminum? This is the one I have.

Cliff notes:
(I think I got the nuts sizes right, I should have wrote them down when doing the installation but I was pressed for time).
1. The front is super easy. Frame bolts are 14mm, end link bolts are 17mm. Strangely enough, the outer side of the end link bolt were you need to use a box wrench when tightening is 19mm.
2. Rear is a bitch. Tip: loosen the back and second to the back exhaust hangars (at the frame, not the rubber donut) and it'll drop the exhaust enough to slide the rear stock bar out. Frame bolts and end links were 14mm, the exhaust hangar bolts were 12mm.
3. I put the rear on the softest setting. I didn't do much "spirited" driving, but there is an immediate, obvious difference. Body roll is greatly reduced. The car is actually pleasant to drive around turns now. Handling seems more neutral than under steer at the moment. If the middle hole induces some under steer, it'll be fine if it reduces roll at the same time (to me).
4. I'm going to drive on the softest rear setting for a week, then try the middle hole. Changing the settings is a 10 minute task at that. It'll take more time to jack up the car than to change the setting.
5. Thank god I bought the breaker bar. My end link nuts were stubborn to get off and I doubt the regular 3/8" socket handle would've been long enough to provide enough torque. Don't forget to spray wd40 on the nuts before you start removing them.
If I forgot anything, I'll add it in this post. To all of you on the fence about buying the bars, don't hesitate to do so. I'm bone stock other than the bars and they made a tremendous difference for $399.00. It's a no-brainer.
**Thanks to Adrian and everyone else who gave me install tips. I hope the above notes will help anyone installing their bars after me.**
congrats on the install san man.
1.5 ton jack? I think you should consider a 3 ton jack and 3 ton jackstands. 1.5 ton are really flimsy stuff.
If anything, stiffening up the rear sway bar will give you more oversteer.
Also, where did you get this that you paid $399? I thought we all got it for $369?
1.5 ton jack? I think you should consider a 3 ton jack and 3 ton jackstands. 1.5 ton are really flimsy stuff.
If anything, stiffening up the rear sway bar will give you more oversteer.
Also, where did you get this that you paid $399? I thought we all got it for $369?
Seems to be a good jack so far
We always get "fugged in the drive thru" on shipping lol.
Do not, I repeat, do not buy the Craftsman aluminum jack that Sears sells... Unfortuantely that is the worst jack I have ever owned. I had mine replaced twice in 3 months before I finally gave up on it and returned it for my money back and went to Harbor Frieght and bought American General one that the shop I go to uses. I funny too, because I read all of the bad revies about the Craftsman jack before I bought it, but I ignored them, because I worked fro Sears for a number of years and am a huge Craftsman fan... Oh well, live and learn.
You live in Hawaii, San? Which Island? WooHoo... Now I know where I'm staying the next time I visit!!!
You live in Hawaii, San? Which Island? WooHoo... Now I know where I'm staying the next time I visit!!!
Great post, San!!!
I posted some comments in blue below.
FYI... I'm always happy to help.
I posted some comments in blue below.
FYI... I'm always happy to help.
Yup, the "Torin" 1.5 ton aluminum jack. Was about 99 or 109.00. Stupid thing leaked almost all the hydraulic fluid on my garage floor. Gotta love Costco, took it back no questions asked 
Cliff notes:
(I think I got the nuts sizes right, I should have wrote them down when doing the installation but I was pressed for time).
1. The front is super easy. Frame bolts are 14mm, end link bolts are 17mm. Strangely enough, the outer side of the end link bolt were you need to use a box wrench when tightening is 19mm.
I've seen it done this way on other cars to. They do this so you don't have to have two 17 mm wrenches to break the end link loose. You use the 17 mm box wrnech on the outer and a 19 mm on the inner... Most people won't have two 17 mm box wrenches.
2. Rear is a bitch. Tip: loosen the back and second to the back exhaust hangars (at the frame, not the rubber donut) and it'll drop the exhaust enough to slide the rear stock bar out. Frame bolts and end links were 14mm, the exhaust hangar bolts were 12mm.
I actually did the rear in less time than the front. I just pulled the rear section of the exhuast off the rubber hangers and had plenty of play to work the stock bar out and the Hotchkis bar in. Was pretty simple.
3. I put the rear on the softest setting. I didn't do much "spirited" driving, but there is an immediate, obvious difference. Body roll is greatly reduced. The car is actually pleasant to drive around turns now. Handling seems more neutral than under steer at the moment. If the middle hole induces some under steer, it'll be fine if it reduces roll at the same time (to me).
If you go to the middle setting then you will stiffen the bar, which will actually induce some oversteer, not understeer. I tried the middle setting, but with my stock rear tires I felt the car if better balanced with the rear bar in the outside setting. If I had a little beefier rear tires, then the middle setting might work well.
4. I'm going to drive on the softest rear setting for a week, then try the middle hole. Changing the settings is a 10 minute task at that. It'll take more time to jack up the car than to change the setting.
If you do this, make sure to keep the traction control on. I almost always drive with my traction control off and as soon as I switched to the middle setting I started to get some snap oversteer and I almost spun the car in the middle of a turn, but I was actually able to hold the powerslide through the turn... It actually made me feel like Jeremy Clarkson from Top Gear!!
5. Thank god I bought the breaker bar. My end link nuts were stubborn to get off and I doubt the regular 3/8" socket handle would've been long enough to provide enough torque. Don't forget to spray wd40 on the nuts before you start removing them.
+1000 on the WD40... That stuff definitely helps. I got away with a 1/2" wratchet set-up, but my car is also fairly new, so there was no corrossion whatsoever.
If I forgot anything, I'll add it in this post. To all of you on the fence about buying the bars, don't hesitate to do so. I'm bone stock other than the bars and they made a tremendous difference for $399.00. It's a no-brainer.
**Thanks to Adrian and everyone else who gave me install tips. I hope the above notes will help anyone installing their bars after me.**

Cliff notes:
(I think I got the nuts sizes right, I should have wrote them down when doing the installation but I was pressed for time).
1. The front is super easy. Frame bolts are 14mm, end link bolts are 17mm. Strangely enough, the outer side of the end link bolt were you need to use a box wrench when tightening is 19mm.
I've seen it done this way on other cars to. They do this so you don't have to have two 17 mm wrenches to break the end link loose. You use the 17 mm box wrnech on the outer and a 19 mm on the inner... Most people won't have two 17 mm box wrenches.
2. Rear is a bitch. Tip: loosen the back and second to the back exhaust hangars (at the frame, not the rubber donut) and it'll drop the exhaust enough to slide the rear stock bar out. Frame bolts and end links were 14mm, the exhaust hangar bolts were 12mm.
I actually did the rear in less time than the front. I just pulled the rear section of the exhuast off the rubber hangers and had plenty of play to work the stock bar out and the Hotchkis bar in. Was pretty simple.
3. I put the rear on the softest setting. I didn't do much "spirited" driving, but there is an immediate, obvious difference. Body roll is greatly reduced. The car is actually pleasant to drive around turns now. Handling seems more neutral than under steer at the moment. If the middle hole induces some under steer, it'll be fine if it reduces roll at the same time (to me).
If you go to the middle setting then you will stiffen the bar, which will actually induce some oversteer, not understeer. I tried the middle setting, but with my stock rear tires I felt the car if better balanced with the rear bar in the outside setting. If I had a little beefier rear tires, then the middle setting might work well.
4. I'm going to drive on the softest rear setting for a week, then try the middle hole. Changing the settings is a 10 minute task at that. It'll take more time to jack up the car than to change the setting.
If you do this, make sure to keep the traction control on. I almost always drive with my traction control off and as soon as I switched to the middle setting I started to get some snap oversteer and I almost spun the car in the middle of a turn, but I was actually able to hold the powerslide through the turn... It actually made me feel like Jeremy Clarkson from Top Gear!!

5. Thank god I bought the breaker bar. My end link nuts were stubborn to get off and I doubt the regular 3/8" socket handle would've been long enough to provide enough torque. Don't forget to spray wd40 on the nuts before you start removing them.
+1000 on the WD40... That stuff definitely helps. I got away with a 1/2" wratchet set-up, but my car is also fairly new, so there was no corrossion whatsoever.
If I forgot anything, I'll add it in this post. To all of you on the fence about buying the bars, don't hesitate to do so. I'm bone stock other than the bars and they made a tremendous difference for $399.00. It's a no-brainer.
**Thanks to Adrian and everyone else who gave me install tips. I hope the above notes will help anyone installing their bars after me.**
Do not, I repeat, do not buy the Craftsman aluminum jack that Sears sells... Unfortuantely that is the worst jack I have ever owned. I had mine replaced twice in 3 months before I finally gave up on it and returned it for my money back and went to Harbor Frieght and bought American General one that the shop I go to uses. I funny too, because I read all of the bad revies about the Craftsman jack before I bought it, but I ignored them, because I worked fro Sears for a number of years and am a huge Craftsman fan... Oh well, live and learn.
You live in Hawaii, San? Which Island? WooHoo... Now I know where I'm staying the next time I visit!!!
You live in Hawaii, San? Which Island? WooHoo... Now I know where I'm staying the next time I visit!!!

That wasn't the ****ty one, was it?I'm on Oahu.
It's funny that the rear end link bolts weren't off sized like the fronts were. Both on the rear were 14mm. No biggie for me since I had sockets and open/box wrenches, but I thought it was strange that the fronts were different. Just something to note for future installers.
Yeah... The one I had all the problems with was the 2 ton version... I already have a 3 ton jack I use for my truck, so I just wanted something smaller and lighter... So far, I'm happy with the 2 ton one I got at Harbor Freight, although it does take a little effort to use,but only time will tell how it holds up.
What did you use? a 2x4 or something thinner?
thanks
BTW, did all of your cars come with the dirt shields in the rear that you had to remove, like the instructions mentioned (I'm assuming that it's KulG35's car)? Mine didn't and I thought that was odd. I've never had any work done to my car back there.


