I was the one that posted the pics of the install with the car on ramps, but that was in a different thread. Let me know if you guys want me to post the pics again in this thread.

The suspension really should be under load with the cars full weight on it to properly install these bars, that's why I used ramps for the install. Hotchkis uses a drive on lift at their shop, so the suspension stays under load. The other option is to jack up the car and place the jack stands under suspension, so the suspension will be compressed when you drop the car on the jackstands. I have used this method before when installing sways on other cars. If you do use ramps, please be very careful when getting the car up on the ramps, it is very tricky and the ramps can easy slide out from under the car while the car is accending / deccending the ramps. It is always best to have another person there as a spotter and also to use some wood to prop against an adjacent wall to help keep the ramps in place when driving up on them. I also had to use some word to drive the car onto first to get the nose far enough off the ground, so it didn't scrape the ramp.

Also, someone mentioned doing the work under the car without jackstands... I would never get under a car unless it was properly supported on jackstands... I hydraulic jack should never be trusted to support the car. Please be safe and use jackstands.

 

Hmm.. seems like you need a lot of stuff to change sways, means I can't help test fit. Sorry guys, I just don't have the time, money or space to find all the tools needed.

 

how much for coupe?

 

Same bars as the G37 coupe, so the same price... but, from the looks of it, you have a G35 coupe, so yours would be the same as the 350Z, but the price should be similar, if not less.

 

Adrian's right: NEVER crawl under your car with only the jack holding it up. ALWAYS use jack stands, even with rhino ramps.

Hey A, you think I'll get enough suspension load if I use the ramps and do the front only, then the back?

 

^ Hey San... I'm not sure I'm following you... Are you talking about driving the front up on ramps and doing the front bar, and then pulling the car back off the ramps... and then backing up on the ramps to do the rear bar? If so, then this is exactly how I did mine. If you use ramps, there is no way to both the front and rear bars at the same time.

 

Ya, exactly. I should be fine then. Got the new jack and breaker bar (just in case) today from Sears. Spent 350 bucks

 

Awesome Dude.

One thing... as much as I love Craftsman tools (hell, I worked for Sears for almost 8 years), you should have gone to Harbor Freight for the jack. I just got a new jack there a few weeks back. They have nice lightweight aluminum racing jacks for as low as $79... I bought this one for $129...

http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/...bCategoryName=

 

I think without compressing the suspension, it will be very hard to get the sway bar off. Since I dont have ramps, I think I will put the jacks under the suspension to compress them before getting the sway bars off.

 

No harbor freight over here

The jack in the link looks exactly like the Torin I just returned to costco. The low pro one looks nice, but there's no HF here so I'm SOL.

 

Where are you at, San? Just curious.

 

This should work fine... I've used this same technique serveral times before when installing sway bars. Just make sure that your find secure points for the jacks to sit, so the car is stable. It's really easy on a RWD car with a rigid rear axle, but with out multilink rear suspension it may be a little tricky.

 

Why is that? I did the install with jackstands x 4 and the endlinks were not under tension.

 

You can remove the bars as long as both wheels are fully unloaded (or loaded equally), but it is recommended that you torque everything down while the sway bar is under load... this means with the suspension compressed.

 

I jacked the front end up unloading the suspension and the front bar came off easily. I did the rear bar while compressed and it was similar.